TOPIC: Relatively new exploration of magnetic fields in fluid dynamics.

ok, let's get clear on this: a post groove improvement of another 20% with the bifilar coils and snake oil treatment...over stock, you're now up just how much?

Results are varying as i found an issue. P0030 is indicating a faulty upstream 02 sensor. Without this sensor, i wont see much more gains. Possibly a decrease in mpgs. Ive driven the car 1/2 tank with coil, and 2 trips into town with snake oil. So I'll let you know more accurately when i can.

I've been exploring some of the experiments on the Bifilar coil, and thought I would shoot a note out to you all. What if we applied current to the coil?

If any of you want to explore this option, be SURE YOU CAN MEASURE AMP DRAW before the first experiment! You overload your alternator, and you're going to regret it!

Simply ground one connection. Then, between the other end place your amp meter between the connection and the positive pole. This is a safe way to determine power draw.

Most systems should handle up to 10 additional amps without concern, but if it draws that much, be sure to check the TEMPERATURE of your coil as well to ensure you don't melt anything!!!

R.

NOTE: THIS WILL NOT WORK!

I think another thing to consider - rather than simply hooking the coil to the alternator - is pulsing the voltage rather than a continuous connection.
maybe there's an ignition timing signal that could be used, or the tach signal? possibly both, for a duty cycle adjustment
ponder it, gents. and be careful - we don't want anyone blowing their car up

In attempting to check the amp draw on the coil around my top rad hose, I blew the fuse at 10 amps, so I at least know the draw is FAR over that. That being said, I'm formulating another approach to run a trickle current through it by using a parallel circuit with the charging wire. That will allow it to be charged with POTENTIAL without actually DRAWING any current.

One connection to the alternator charging wire, the other to the hot post.

R.

Adjustable pulses for the bifilar inductive coil

The circuit in this video pulses the inductor coils...and the pulses can be adjusted.

Greg, please just post the URL so the video plays in the post. No need to do anything else with YT vids.-Ron

Hey everyone, I had a question to all who has put the coil or coils on if anyone has tried out doing a ecu relearn afterwards. Just keeping it basic , before I dabble with more on this topic. Have a great weekend and I hope everyone luck with these new concepts.

I haven’t, and things are working out quite well.
The ECU is accustomed to making small changes all the time because of environmental factors like barometric pressure, air temperature, fuel composition...this coil, and what it does, has an effect on things physically, but it will always vary slightly because the earth’s magnetic field does as we drive, so the computer will always be adjusting to sensor inputs. Maybe this coil makes the fuel atomize better at the injectors so manifold vacuum vaporizes it better - that may cause the computer to retard timing, shorten injector pulse durations because oxygen sensors are reading too far one way or the other, engine coolant temperatures are too hot or cool for all of that... the coil- whatever it does- adds to all the variables constantly changing so the computer is constantly looking to balance the operating equation. Our groove woke the computer up; this coil gives it another ball to keep in the air as it juggles all the sensor inputs.

Thanks everyone for the input! Michael, I saw the TB you grooved for the feller down under. What an awesome job! It almost looks polished! I’ll definitely strive for that degree of proficiency. In the meantime...

I’ve been following the bifilar coil and am intrigued. I’d like to get some things clear in my mind.

Bifilar coils:
I gather the gauge of the wire is not TOO significant. Ron, you used 12 gauge on your 2011 Taurus; later you said you bought 100’ of 16 gauge speaker wire. This will be for future projects? Or will you replace the the 12 gauge? My feeble logic would suggest the thicker wire would create a stronger field?? Is there a benefit in having the thickest wire practical? Michael, I think you used 14 gauge? I have 16, 14, 12 and even 8 and 4 gauge left over from stereo install projects. I’m thinking 14 gauge is the way to go. Thoughts?

Andrew. If we spoke Italian we might have a better grasp of what has already been discovered on this topic. I too wonder about the proper gauge of wire.

Would the diameter of the tube being wrapped make a difference in the number of coils needed to induce fluid dynamic nirvana?
Would that diameter have anything to do with the gauge of wire needed?
Could this be a multi variable situation (wire gauge, number of coils, fluid pipe size) combine at some point to give us an optimum result? (is there an app for figuring that?)

What about the type of material of the pipe being wrapped with the BAC? Is there a difference in Rubber, Plastic, Metal (Fe vs non Fe metals).

Sorry if I've just over complicated things, but I have questions . . .

good question(s), Preston.
one thing that I noted and took for granted was the assumption of certain standards: natural gas pipe, for instance - compostion and construction between europe and north america and probably the rest of the world may be slightly different, but not enough to matter enough. You're probably asking about water in PEX vs Copper pipes, or gasoline in the vinyl/plastic vs rubber (or aluminum) fuel lines.

Study up on Inductors and their magnetic fields...YouTube and wiki and your search engine of choice (I like DuckDuckGo) will lead you to wonderful places.
this bifilar inductor coil concentrates the field, and oppositional forces to the direction of flow through it are I suspect mitigated by the aligning tendences the field presents to the medium passing through the envelope to enough of an extent that systemic efficiencies can be realized. (wow, the coffee's working very well today...)

there's a degree of faith to this, but there's also evidence. if you're willing to experiment (and learn what to vary in your own experimentation), you'll eventually hit on the solution to YOUR equation. Or not, and you will have learned some things from trying.
In my case, simply with the one coil on my fuel line, I'm seeing steady mileage while the weather gets colder - that's not normal (it usually declines). I'm going to add another coil to my fuel line closer to the filter (rather than at the engine) and see if that continues/improves - I have to get underneath the car this weekend to change the oil.

This afternoon I wrapped the upper rad. hose, and fuel lines on my '02 Subaru Outback, Shiela. Upper rad hose got 14 coils, the incoming and return fuel lines got 13 wraps each. I used 14 gauge speaker wire from Home Depot. A 50 ft. spool was about 18 bucks. There are 2 parallel fuel return hoses, so they were wrapped together.

Ends of the rad. hose coils secured with super glue/baking soda, ends of fuel line coils w/zip ties. Coil ends secured in orange wire nuts then wrapped in electrical tape. Rad hose coil wrapped in black gaff tape, fuel line coils left open.

We will see if these, plus Snake Oil in the engine oil, help break Shiela out of the fuel mleage doldrums! I estimate combined MPG at about 25 currently, not so hot.

Shiela's a California Girl, after all...

a few pics:






Tracy G