TOPIC: Dodge Ram 1500, 5.7L V8, Mod.2015

My Ram is getting ready for mods.
Additional Information:
It' a 5.7L V8 with twin sparkplugs (so 16 in total) and 8 coils sitting directly on them as it looks like.
I have a Prins LPG system added with valve saver. After warm-up it switches automatically over to LPG. Consumption on LPG 18-21L per 100Km. Price for LPG about 60% of gasoline.
At the moment I have 45.000 Km on it and me as 1st owner

It has an multiport-injection-system. How the LPG is tied in I am not sure. I am not that much of a mechanic, so all this will be a bit challenging for me. I try to find out more specs and to harvest information from a local mechanics about the sensors and other stuff. It seems like most information's as part numbers are withheld after mod.2013. In the owners manual there is a list of maintenance and spare-parts but only referring to "use ONLY original parts". (This car is often not even listed for ref.numbers regarding filters and other parts). -Cars I had before where somewhat easier in this respect.

PCV: it has a sort of oil catch system built in.Bypassing and re-routing it through the air intake after the IAT resulted in water in oil, heavy gook build-up on the oilcap after 500km. I had only experience with this only when a motorseal failed on a previous car.Twice. After re-routing to original state the oilcap was clean after a few hundred kilometers.
My Self I was trained as goldsmith, worked after that as tech.fine/precision mechanic for IBM. So what I can claim is I am skilled to work with small and sensitive tools. What ever is missing....... learning by doing as always.
Pic's I will post next but a bit later.

Thanks for support!!
Kim

Goldsmith, huh? Isn't that kind of work what made the Jews a global power?!?!

There's one thing you'll need to know about your LPG. While it's a very clean-burning fuel, it is absolutely FILTHY until it's ignited. This means that as it passes through your intake system, it tends to collect on the metal surfaces. This in turn slows the fuel deliv ry, resulting in uneven distribution of your fuel across all cylinders.

The cylinders CLOSEST to the delivery point receive the richest mixture, the cylinders furthest away receiving the LEANEST. This will result (not "Might result") in an engine that tends to skip and stumble.

That being said, there is NOTHING on the market (other than The Gadgetman Groove) that can overcome this, short of removing and sandblasting the inside of your intake. The turbulence created by Grooving results in a vastly more homogenous mix and will completely eradicate any erratic fuel delivery issues.

Personal experience on this one! I've done three older, tired LPG engines and they ALL had the same character before, and ALL had the same balanced operations after.

Just a word to the wise...

Ron
Gadgetman

Remark: This is not the only reason for they're success.
LPG: I have noticed this before on my little Bunsen burner.

Here, what I did on this rainy weekend. Unfortunately I couldn't do much on my car.
I build a vacuum-leak-tester as seen on youtube, maybe a bit more sophisticated. All fittings are seals with high temperature silicon.
Since vacuum leaks are mentioned as one of common issues, I will check, for me as standard procedure, for leaks before applying a groove. So I expect to use this gadget more often.
External parts as 12V compressor and a adjustable manometer will be added as soon as I got the parts. (Also to be used for adjustable pre-set tire pressure which will also include part of my service) Total cost till now. 20$ and some time.

Kim

Here a few pic's regarding the IAT-sensor and the added inlet.

-Kim
Kim, please use the "Insert" button to implant your pics into your posts. My time is limited, so it's tough for me to re-do what you could do so easily while posting.

Thank you!

Ron

Manipulating the IAT-sensor

What do you think, any thoughts about this?

Due to my understanding the air/fuel ratio seems to be part of an issue concerning the overall fuel consumption. If the air temp is cold, result in higher fuel quantity to air/fuel ratio. If the air temp. is warm the fuel quantity to air/fuel ratio will be less.
Air temp. is measured by the IAT sensor which in this case is a NTC variable temperature dependent resistor. This one works in a Kilo Ohm range.
It means as colder the temperature as higher the resistance and vice versa.
Would it be possible to leaner the air/fuel ratio by lowering the resistance somewhat? -And reducing the fuel consumption? ( I guess it’s clear that you can bend things only up to a certain point before running in to troubles). -Let’s assume, this is all I can do with only a simple multimeter- adding something like a 750k.Ohm resistance across the 2 leads which would then lower the resistance of something like 1 or 2 K.Ohms, =around maybe 10% of resistance, depending on the temperature measured. -To get more accurate values I would need a climate chamber and other set-up of measurement devices which is not accessible to me. The question is also how great are the tolerances from the IAT-resistor and the exceptness to the computer.

-Kim

Some Pic,s from the twin coils and the PCV-valve with build in catch-can

-Kim

Some pic's from TB. When engine is on idle the TB is more closed than when engine is off. Ignition on or off makes no difference.

The black edge at idle position is rather blurry. Not clear to define the correct position for grooving.

-Kim

Kim, thanks for the pics! For me, it is debatable if mods to the IAT sensor electrical side would do any good. My idea for IAt's has been to attempt some sort of shielding to keep inlet air from cooling the IAT probe rod as much as stock. Maybe to not completely shield it, but partly shield it from the airstream. To keep some of the wind chill effect at bay.

The TB- in the third pic, the Groove will go behind the lower edge of the plate as seen here. It always goes behind, downstream from the plate edge, the edge that sits farthest downstream towards the intake manifold. IT's a drive by wire TB, and the black stain edge is visible. I'd put a business card between the plate edge opposite to the Groove, and the TB bore. That puts the Groove downstream from the idle position. so the plate engages the Groove at RPM higher than idle speed. A bit further into the throttle off idle.

Before Grooving this Ram's TB, shoot some pics of the underside and post 'em. So we can see anything to look out for down there.

the PCV housing- is that a little removable cap on top of the PCV valve itself? IT looks like a small screw-off cap...?

Tracy G

I guess so. I believe It should be similar to this one.



Regarding undersides pic's from the TB I will post them, but since I need the car everyday and the time difference between here and there,.... I am afraid I can not expect much hints tips or whatsoever on time from your side in case something's comes up. I have just enough time for dismantling, taken pic's, grooving, doing some epoxying (hopefully not), putting things together again. As mentioned I have no garage or carport. In case something goes wrong I am stuck. The next car shop is 40Miles away and spare parts for this car about 70miles. The only way to get somewhere would be by Taxi, -but not affordable for me. So everything need to work at first try. I ordered already gaskets got some heat resistance silicon. different types of epoxies for metals and so on. I also did some good studies on the groove and I will do more once I received the DVD and instructions.
I was trying to get some junked TB from the yard. I don't wont to put this country in a bad light but from the junkyard guys I was always asked "what do you mean? What is a TB??" HEEEEEELP MEEEEEEEEE. My 4 year old niece knows more!!!!

-Kim-

Kim, these pics should help. there are Ebay auctions I just searched for.

Now, look closely at the underside pics in each auction. First off, again, the Groove goes on the underside of the plate edge that is lower in the bore, closer to the intake manifold opening. You will want to check the thickness of the bore wall the Groove will be cut into.

Take the Large bit, and anything with a flat straight edge. Hold the bit so the taper just behind the cutter is even with the edge of the straightedge. Now look how far below the straightedge the cutter extends down,that is how deep your Groove will be. Compare that distance to thickness of the bore wall, where the Groove will go. Now you can tell if the cutter is likely to cut through the aluminum when you Groove it. If it looks like it might break through anyplace, then build up metal epoxy on the outside surface to give added thickness, BEFORE Grooving.

This is a DBW TB, so there should be no Idle Air Control (IAC) to modify.

Use a new TB mounting gasket, installed dry--do not use silicone RTV as a sealer, gasoline dissolves RTV!

this is a simple Groove job. DBW TB's are simpler than cable drive ones, as a rule.

Next- you will be looking closely at the black stain edge. The black stain shows where the plate is at during hot idle. You will want to position the plate, so it is just a bit more open than where the black stain edge is. Ron has taught, and I find it usually is correct--to put a business card between the plate edge and bore wall, opposite to the Groove side. Use as much paper thickness as necessary to get the plate opened maybe 2 MM past the black edge. This makes sure that the plate only crosses over the Groove, somewhat past idle RPM. You Do NOT want the Groove engaged by the plat edge at hot engine idle, or you could have excess idle RPM's and surging. IT's safer to put the Groove "too far" into the plates rotation, than to put it too close to fully closed. The black carbon stain, builds up over time from fuel and oil vapors, it's a reliable indicator of hot engine idle RPM plate position. Try not to smear the black too much as you handle the TB. You can even make a scratch mark at it's edge as a reference to it. Then, if you need to relocate that position, you can, after cleaning the TB.

so- First check TB bore casting thickness, epoxy outside if needed. Then position the plate a bit past the idle position. I advise having a small vice to hold the TB in to free both hands to steady the Dremel flex shaft. Position the TB in the vice, and re-position it as you go, to keep Grooving in as flat a plane going left to right as you go.

Ok the auctions: Rats, the website won't add the links. I will email the auctions to you Kim!

Tracy

Kim, please edit your posts to include the pics.

I don't have the time to do it any more, and your work DESERVES to be seen!

GREAT JOB!!!!

Ron
Gadgetman

Hi and Hello
Since the engine, (50.000km), is not running smoothly especially just after start-up and cold I changed the sparkplugs. Orig. NKG V-power ZFR5E replaced by PULSTAR. Pulstar recommended a gap of 0.9mm, Dodge recommends 1,1mm and you suggest something like 20%+ take a pick. , I decided to stay a bit conservative by 1.2mm but with shortened electrode see pic's "ZK.."
For that pricy parts I am a bit disappointed regarding the quality of the electrode alignments. I spend about 2 hours for aligning the electrodes, re-gaped them from 0.9mm to 1.25mm and finally to shortened them. At the finishing touch I re-checked the gapping and made some slight corrections here and there.
Changing the spark-plugs was quite challenging. Absolutely no motivation to do it again in the next time. Total time around 6 hours including self training on how to use, adjust and read a torque wrench,( never had one to use till now), and modifying a tool for replacing the sparks in the back. Not an easy task without breaking most of your fingers. See pic's with tools used.
One spark-plug fell some where into the motor-compartment so I was not able to make a test-drive. I have to hunt for it tomorrow since it began to rain again and all my body-parts are aching after doing some "yoga" in the motor-compartment. I started-up the motor just to see if and how it is running. So far I am satisfied. It started-up wright away without coughing or other issues.
Interesting that the threads of spark-plugs in the back are more dirty and greasy as the ones ion the front. Especially the one in the back opposite of the drivers side. (see last pic)

-Kim-

So finally I did a test-drive of a couple of hundred kilometers. After timely inspection for the missing sparkplug it is still missing. Lost in action so to speak. The motor starts-up right away runs smooth and is more responsive. The motor seem also to run a few degrees cooler,( reading oil temperature). Changing the S.P. I found 2 of them rather loose and the end next to the hex mount was discolored as well. (See pic rear passenger side). I am pretty sure that they have been leaking causing the start-up issues and misfiring. It seems like it runs as well more quiet. The white foggy fumes from the tailpipe disappeared mostly. I 'am quite confident now that I could have gaped the sparks a bit more. Chicken me.
Since the motor runs like a chime next project will be grooving and adding nano coils.
-Kim-

ADDED NOTE: I drove now a couple hundred kilometers and the bordcomputer tells a 12% decrease of fuel consumption:)