TOPIC: 1994 Toyota 4runner

is there a groove (throttle body) available for my 94 Toyota 4 runner? cost?

I get that a LOT, Bill!

There's really only one question I ask in return. "Does it burn gasoline?"

With your vehicle, there are a few options before I can price it out. Here's what I show:
4 cylinder (4x4, 22RE engine), AT
4 cylinder (4x4, 22RE engine), MT
6 cylinder (3VZE engine), 4x2
6 cylinder (3VZE engine), 4x4, cruise control, AT
6 cylinder (3VZE engine), 4x4, cruise control, MT
6 cylinder (3VZE engine), 4x4, w/o cruise control; AT
6 cylinder (3VZE engine), 4x4, w/o cruise control; MT

Why don't you give me a call and we can talk about it?

406-422-3291 (mobile)

Ron

Bill welcome!
Your going to LOVE what this little groove does for your engine! Ive put it to the test for a year and half now recording data of every engine i could get my hands on. Its done wonders for each one! Be sure to follow up with us here and share your journey. Its great to have you aboard, and to be honest im VERY happy to know that another person will no longer be robbed at every fill up by big oil! Your helping to clean up the environment, and increase your engines life by using its performance! WOW! I'm excited for results.
God bless,
Gadgetman Michael

Ron: i have the new throttle body installed and have gone through the computer reset and put about 15 mile (city) on since install; the engine idles at about 2200 while in traffic, even though during the computer reset i had it well below 1000; if i rev it and drop my foot off the peddle, it will drop below 2000 but not my much. .... any suggestions?
also, besides the PCV valve (passenger side) being plugged (done) there is also a breather tube on the drivers side that connects the valve cover with the air intake; should this be blocked as well?

Has the check engine light come on? Have you read whatever code was triggered? Is there a working bulb for that to happen in the instrument cluster?
That high idle is indicative of a vacuum leak (or several leaks) of fairly significant size. The breather line shouldn’t be an issue - what did you do with the hose line from the PCV valve to the manifold? Perhaps something (like the line to the brake booster or evap purge line) has come off the intake manifold? If idled below 1000rpm after the re-learn but doesn’t anymore, something has changed, and probably inadvertently or accidentally.
If it’s not a vacuum leak, what about the throttle position sensor or idle air control valve? Are they connected and doing what they’re supposed to?

hi Bill, I'd agree w/ GreG K about a vacuum leak somewhere, OR an Idle Air Control issue. I would re-examine any vacuum hoses, for leaks, cracks, brittleness, etc. I tried looking for this TB on Ebay, but I don't know which engine/trans you have. I'd expect that if this TB has an IAC integral to it, then Ron would have inspected and cleaned it if needed. IAC's must be kept clean/carbon-free- if crud holds the pintle valve off it's seat, then the idle
rpm's go up. Then again, this engine doesn't necessarily
even have an IAC....

IS the idle of good quality- smooth- or is it rough?
Tracy G

Thought it was about time for me to step in here...

First, I agree with Tracy here, with an addendum. The IAC, when used, gets carboned up due to the oil passing through the system. Further, as the carbon deposit is truly acid, it CAN become so badly oxidized that it simply cannot adjust itself to a wider opening, no matter what the computer is calling for.

By reducing the air entering through the PCV system, the idle SHOULD therefore be LOWER, not higher. So, a leak is strongly indicated.

One "hidden" location is at the bottom of the vapor canister, where the vacuum lines attach. Many of these older systems develop cracks due to the decay of the plastics used.

One not so hidden possibility is the tension on the accelerator cable.

Anyway, together we are BOUND to find the solution!

Keep up the sharing, it is really rewarding to me to see you all acting like a real "Gadgetman Clan"!

Ron

i went ahead and loosed the throttle cable mount and it had enough play to move about 1/16" forward, which slightly reduced the tension on cable. the Idle dropped to about 1500, but the computer is still reving the engine to over 2000 for a time and then backing off. its like the computer is starting over every time i start the car.
more suggestions please.
what do you recommend i use to find any vacuum leaks? i am worried about open flame if i use the carb spray

also the exhaust is very hot (much hotter than i remember); that did not happen on my Suburban. still some slight sputtering as the engine runs.
i greatly appreciate your help.

Sounds to me like something that happened to me on an Eclipse. After close examination, I discovered that I had connected the cables incorrectly.

Only took 30 minutes before I was willing to check my own work!

I would revisit that before going any further. As to the revving to 2K, it's a function of the computer to do that on a cold engine. does it rev like that when warm?

thanks for your help. i'll keep looking.

i tried a tube switch at the TB that i was not sure of it being correct; no difference. The engine did not do the rev cycle this time, the engine is still warm from 2hrs ago.
i guess i need to focus on the vacuum leak. is there a tool / device that does not entail flammable liquids? and can you direct me to some info on a particular technique?

no check engine light; or any dash warnings. just the high idle. i did the relearn again and got it to idle at 1500, drove it a few blocks and its idle is back to 2000 when i stop at a corner and put the car in neutral (manual trans)