TOPIC: Trouble Codes on 95 Ford Econoline Van

Hey everyone! I was able to get a code reader finally. For a quick review, i have a 1995 Ford E-150 Econoline Club Wagon. It a 5.8L V8 van. It has an EEC-IV Computer system. I haven't the faintest idea on how to fix any of the codes showing up. The book that came with the code reader keeps referring me to a service manual of which I don't have for that van. Do I need to get one? can I get one for free from somewhere? Here are the codes that are showing up and a short description of them...

411-Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check

412-Cannot control RPM during DOER low RPM check

311-Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test

314-Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test/left side

332-Insufficient EGR flow detected

I would really appreciate any help you guys can give! thanks!

Hi Andrew,

Here is a link to the code list with descriptions...

Ford Check Engine light Codes - FreeAutoMechanic

Since you've made note of them, I would suggest, clearing the codes and seeing which ones re-occur.

The 332 - EGR code may be a valve or solenoid failure... first thing you may want to do is reseat all your fuses and go from there.

The 311 code may be in response to the 314 code... looking like O2 sensors...
311 r Thermactor air system inoperative (Bank #1 w/dual HO2S)

Could be the connectors or the actual sensors.
(This page has been blacklisted as security risk.) supermotors.net/registry/media/245234

This is what I got from doing a search on the different code strings, there is much more out there on the Ford products than what I have seen on other makes.

Hope this helps

Karl Fortner
Tacoma, Washington

The 411 and 412 codes may involve your idle air control...

Thanks, Karl. You are always to be relied upon for accurate information.

Andrew, a point of honor first. "PVC" is a type of plastic. "PCV" is the abbreviation you're looking for. We must maintain our professionalism now, mustn't we?

Now, as to the issues, Karl is 100% correct. Clear all codes. Then, the INSTANT the MIL light comes on, check the code. That ONE is probably the root of all your issues.

It sounds like a really bad vacuum leak. Assuming this one is Groovy, the first thing to do is to check your work. I expect you'll find a hole, albeit ever so tiny, Groove to atmosphere. Be sure to get yourself a replacement gasket before you take it back off, because you are going to want it fixed all the way the next time!

If you have any trouble at all, be sure to use your network of family from Gadgetman Land! Get numbers and e-mails and USE THEM! They (your new family) is your greatest asset.

Ron

Thnks for the replies! Ron, thanks for the helpful correction on the PCV...i do know the difference and I've been pretty careful to define them, but i must have slipped on one of my posts. Could you let me know where I made the mistake so i can correct it? Also a little lost on what you were talking about on groove to atmosphere? and what gasket am i needing again? thanks a million!!

Hey Drew, TracyG here. Ron is talking about if this van is grooved, check your work. That is, take the TB off, and get a bright flashlight. Take TB into a dark place and shine the flashlight into the Groove and look outside of Groove's placement, the outside of the casting; look for ANY light coming through. Do it also light outside looking for light showing in the Groove. Sometimes the bit will break through the casting and leave a hole even just a tiny one will give a substantial vacuum leak. So that's what is meant by "checking your work". Always every time you Groove a TB or carb base, check w/ a strong light in the dark for leaks!! If you find one, fill it in from the appropriate side w/ your choice of epoxy, then "clean" the Groove lightly w/ bit if epoxy got into Groove. I examine every TB I do and look for likely break-thru areas first. I rough up any such area w/ a small ball dremel bit, then apply epoxy and let set up; then I Groove. This prevention has served me well.


The gasket Ron mentioned would be the Throttle body Base or Mounting gasket between TB and Intake manifold.

Hope this helps!

TracyG Gadgetman Reno

So ive let the van alone for a couple weeks to see if anything i did to it made a difference. There has been absolutely no increase in MPG as of yet. After clearing codes and running the van for awhile here are the 2 that showed up again: 332 & 412 (check my first post above to see a short description of them). I do need to mention that the Check Engine Light has never come on anymore since I have replaced the Oxygen Sensors and reset the computer. But these two codes are still reoccur in the system and I'm going to need some help with these. Here is the information I have on codes and scanners, please correct me if I'm wrong. The OBD1 scanner has three basic sets of code tests-KOEO, Continuous Memory, KOER, and depending on the vehicle some other specialized tests.The KOEO test has passed every time from the beginning. The Continuous Memory code puts out 332. The KOER puts out 412. At this point I'm not worried about 412, because I have NO IDEA how to fix that! lol! 332 was the same until I found some info on the EGR. I have located it in the vehicle and need some tips as what to do now. Do I need to replace the EGR? Or is one of the exhaust vent lines plugged? Hope you guys can help! Starting to get a little flustered not seeing any MPG increase after all this time.

Hi Drew! Put your Mityvac hose on the EGR valve, then at idle slowly pump the handle watching guage. As you increase vacuum on EGR it's opening; engine should stumble or die at idle speed w/ only 5 in.hg on the guage. Also w/ engine off pump up Mityvac and see if EGR holds vacuum say 15-20 in.hg on guage. Dont go nuts on EGR valve here esp if old you might just kill the diaphragm if it's close to the edge...If no response at idle speed or EGR won't hold vacuum it's shot. Also if ya pull the EGR clean passages w/ wire brush, carb clean etc., but use NO solvent on EGR just a brush. Carb clean can kill the diaphragm, that goes for ANY underhood diaphragm...

That code 412, check the IAC valve. w/ cold engine start does RPM go over 1000RPM then drop down in a moment? Got to be cold engine to check this, w/ hot engine RPM should go right to normal curb idle speed.

IAC of course allows filtered air to bypass throttle blades increasing idle speed for cold start or addled load like A/C turned on. W/age of this van IAC ought to be pulled/ checked/cleaned on pintle removing carbon also make sure passages aren't blocked by carbon. You need IAC to function, you Definetely DON'T want a carboned up one can lead to runaway engine speed at idle--vehicle suddenly accelerates while sitting at a stoplight for example. Clean the Critter!!

Sorry if you already know this will help someone understand: we restrict the IAC airflow as part of Groove Process 'cause IAC when open (many NEVER fully close) acts like a vacuum leak! So, Clean IAC/IAC passageways, then restrict it. I would pay attention to climate where vehicle lives. Hot climate A/C will be used. cold Climate needs more air for idle due to longer warm up times.

Vacuum hoses, vacuum guage/Mityvac: The Mityvac is useful when a vacuum hose goes to a vacuum diaphragm--the Brake booster, a distributor vacuum advance canister, underdash vacuum pots controlling HVAC system doors, etc. You just connect tool to vacuum hose connected to whatever you want to test; pump the handle, watch guage, is it holding vacuum. If not make sure your connections are tight, re-test. I use the last hose connected to whatever to hook up Mityvac to eliminate variables. As I go thru a system I closely examine all hoses/connectors/tees for integrity, bad anything gets fixed/replaced. Your Vacuum guage is connected to manifold connection to read manifold vacuum levels.

BTW, My Mityvac pump owners manual says to use only silicone oil or cooking oil to lube the piston seal, it says dont use penetrating oil, WD-40, etc. Mine is 20+ yrs old still works fine but I gotta lube piston seal once in ahwhile or it leaks/won't hold a vacuum.

Lastly, those codes--I'm no expert anything, but I do remember working on a couple of Fords w/ EECIV system like yours. One I did major ignition tune up on, hadnt been tuned for over 100K miles. Darn thing set codes for equipment not on the vehicle!! Then I learned the trick of disconnecting batt. cables after tuneup to re-set computer or it woulnt figure out what was going on...

When I used to do some general mechanic work for income I would get stuck w/something, and get out the Phone book. I'd look for a garage that did a lot of work on whatever I was working on, and call 'em for help. didn't always work, but I got LOTS of answers that way. I've even heard of stopping by w/ a box of donuts in the AM, or soda's/Red bull in the PM and even a 6-pack of whatever around closing time to grease the wheels. I've offered to go pick up whatever they like (within reason) while I was there in person picking their brains. Often they seem to appreciate intelligently asked questions, a joke or two, and a kind offer of some refreshment for their trouble. The answers to my questions saved me and my customer time/$$

Hope this all helps you, Drew or Someone Out There...

TracyG Gadgetman Reno

It appears you have indeed got two separate issues. The 412 is probably due to a bad IAC valve. I recommend these be replaced as a matter of course with all mods with more than 50K miles. They get sticky due to the PCV system and inherent blow-by.

As to the 332, replace the EGR and end that question. They, as do all things made by man, have a limited lifespan. If it has never been replaced, then bite the $40 bullet and put a new one in. Low flow on the EGR will be corrected.

When you're replacing it, with it off the engine, start it. Any plugs will then be blown out and you will be ready to install the new one!

Have a GREAT day!