TOPIC: 2008 Dodge RAM 1500 4.7 L V8

Hello All,

Well this weekend was the weekend for my first mod...

I was introduced to the groove at the Bedini/Lindemann conference and purchased the personal license program. I have tried to read and watch as much as I could before I started. The first thing I noticed this weekend, to my surprise, when I took my throttle body off was that it was made of plastic. I called Ron and asked for some reassurance before continuing on. He gave me the thumbs up and I went for it. I explained to Ron that the thickness was going to be a problem as I could tell that the bit was going to cut through to the outside. I managed to fill in enough behind the groove with JB Qwik to fill in the holes. I replaced the TB come to find out my check engine light was now on. I then remembered that I had forgotten to disconnect the positive battery cable to reset the computer. After I did that, the check engine light went off. So now one of my questions is...Is there a way to tell that I did in fact fill in all the holes and that there is not a vacuum leak?

Also, after the mod I drove the truck a little. Didn't see much difference in response. I know that several people comment on that after the mod is complete. I did however reset my MPG gauge and it looks like there may be some increase. I will need to put some more miles on it to be sure.

One other question and I'm going to do my best to explain. The TB appeared to be in an idle state when I took it off. The throttle plate was opened just slightly and not in the closed position. You could however push on it and get it to fully close and feel it push against the motor that controls the throttle plate position, but then when released it would move back to the slightly open position. Of course I could do just the opposite and open it all the way and feel it pushing against the motor again. Now here is my question. Where is the groove suppose to be located based on this slightly open state? I saw a video somewhere where Ron described the business card technique. I couldn't find it, but that was what I did when I cut my groove. This opened the throttle plate just slightly more past where it would normally be resting. Hope that was correct. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Couple of pictures attached.


Many thanks, Brent

Brent, looks like you picked a good one to start with.

I would guess the snap is not there due to the location of groove ,but thats ok as it will still get mpg.Id suspect that you could have cut it alittle closer but sometimes people dont like the quick snap.

Id bet your on your way to good mpg. Happy Grooving if you need any advice call 660 229 4871 Dan gadgetman mo.

Hey Dan,

Thanks for your reply...

You bring up an interesting point. Is it safe to assume that based on where you put the groove in reference to the throttle plate, affects where in the depression of the gas pedal the groove has the biggest impact! I guess that would make sense. I'm still learning...

So is the closer the better? Is there a sweet spot? Or is it based on driving styles? Will a lead foot driver need a different groove location than grandma?


Thanks, Brent

What Im saying is that the groove and throttle position do work together as it will allow less angle on the tps and the ecu is fooled.

If, lets say you drop 7 drops of gas at 25 degrees at 70 mph, with groove the ecu will only drop 4 drops at 12 degrees at 70 mph.

All this works together that and the vaccum,and pressure wave. Results better fuel to air ratio burn.

So yes ,closer to the butterfly seems to work best on power and mpg, but too close will cause idle problems.

Keep grooving Dan gadgetman mo.

Hi Brent,

The "Neutral" position your talking about is the ssame concept that GM and others use.

These engines do not have an idle air Control pathway and depend on the throttle plate position to control the idle.

That being said, they let it rest out and away from the "Closed" position so that when the engine is started there is more than enough air flowing to start the engine. Once the engine is running the ECU idle's the engine down by closing the throttle plate to an idle position.

If you look at the readings with an ecu scanner, you will see that the idle position of the throttle plate is closer to a closed position than when the engine is off.

What some of us do is check the idle position while running, some have said that they do that while the engine is cold so that the plate angle is farther out than the "warm idle" position which reduces the risk of being to close and causing idle issues.

As an example, my 2007 Avalanche 5.3L has a "Neutral/off" position of 31 degrees, yet the warm idle position is closer to 18 degrees. I would cut mine at the 20 degree position to keep the idle stable.

What you should be finding is that when you are driving that it should take very little pedal to make things go.

And by the way... Grandma's the one you gotta watch for the lead foot...

Karl Fortner
Tacoma, Washington

dan wrote: What Im saying is that the groove and throttle position do work together as it will allow less angle on the tps and the ecu is fooled.

If, lets say you drop 7 drops of gas at 25 degrees at 70 mph, with groove the ecu will only drop 4 drops at 12 degrees at 70 mph.

All this works together that and the vaccum,and pressure wave. Results better fuel to air ratio burn.

So yes ,closer to the butterfly seems to work best on power and mpg, but too close will cause idle problems.

Keep grooving Dan gadgetman mo.

Dan,

Thanks for your input...

In the above example you give, are you referring to the throttle plate angle when you refer to 25 degrees vs. 12 degrees? With the groove the throttle plate needs less angle to have the same 70 mph outcome with less fuel?


Thanks, Brent

Yes Brent the butterfly angle not the groove angle.

Happy Grooving Dan gadgetman mo.

TacomaKarl wrote: Hi Brent,

The "Neutral" position your talking about is the ssame concept that GM and others use.

These engines do not have an idle air Control pathway and depend on the throttle plate position to control the idle.

That being said, they let it rest out and away from the "Closed" position so that when the engine is started there is more than enough air flowing to start the engine. Once the engine is running the ECU idle's the engine down by closing the throttle plate to an idle position.

If you look at the readings with an ecu scanner, you will see that the idle position of the throttle plate is closer to a closed position than when the engine is off.

What some of us do is check the idle position while running, some have said that they do that while the engine is cold so that the plate angle is farther out than the "warm idle" position which reduces the risk of being to close and causing idle issues.

As an example, my 2007 Avalanche 5.3L has a "Neutral/off" position of 31 degrees, yet the warm idle position is closer to 18 degrees. I would cut mine at the 20 degree position to keep the idle stable.

What you should be finding is that when you are driving that it should take very little pedal to make things go.

And by the way... Grandma's the one you gotta watch for the lead foot...

Karl Fortner
Tacoma, Washington

Karl,

Thanks for the clarity...

That makes sense on the idle air control. However, the position of the throttle plate was more at a 5 degree angle when I pulled it off. Let me make sure we are on the same page. The throttle plate when in the "closed" position is at 0 degrees and when the throttle plate is in the "full open" position is at 90 degrees. Is this correct? If so, can you please explain where you say to cut the groove at 20 degrees to keep the idle stable. That seems so far away from the throttle plate!


Thanks, Brent


P.S. You're spot on with grandma!!!

Hi Brent,

on the 20 degree, I was describing the TB on my vehicle... idle position was at 18 degrees, cut at 20 degrees.

There is a difference between the off position and the idle position, they operate them that way so the ecu can move in either direction at startup to set the idle.

Karl Fortner
Tacoma, Washington