TOPIC: 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport

Recently grooved a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.0 Ltr.
Automatic

Went well I thought, very easy to access the Throttle Body and PCV port on the manifold.
The PCV & Breather were Tee'd together into the Air Duct prior to the Throttle Body.
The port on the manifold where the PCV hose originally connected to was capped.
NOTE: The vacuum cap blew off during the 'fast' driving test so, is was further held in place with a hose clamp! Apparently these engines create a lot of pressure.

The brunt of my time was spent on the Idle Air rerouting.

Results:
The customer noticed a power increase and smoother driving.
There was some rough idling the day after, so I opened up the idle air passages a bit more,
thanks for the insight Luke & Tracy.

The Mileage dropped a tad from it's usual 15 Mpg to 13 Mpg at first but, now the customer claims it's back up to 15 Mpg. Time will tell.

Here's some pics.

Great job, Jason!

I must say that is the finest re-route job I have ever see. All our guys can learn from that. The pictures say a thousand words about your professionalism. I LIKE it!

You can expect it to drop a little at first, more likely if the ECU clearing was not complete. I generally give this a good half hour in most cases as I ground the POS cable before I begin Grooving. That way, there is no question about giving it long enough to reset completely.

If you did give it enough time and it still dropped, that is not unheard of, and indicates it may take 3-5 tanks of normal in-town driving before the mileage stabilizes. In fact, many many MANY vehicles take that long.

Keep us posted on the results! I expect, with this kind of work, that the owner may see as much as a 60% increase-or MORE!

Yee-HA!

Ron

Yabba-Dabba-Do, Jason!

Sweet work on that one! I like your workmanship! I also dig his K&N air filter/duct. Might ya take/post a pic or 2 how you connected the re-route to this duct? That also might help others out.

Thanks Buddy!

Tracy G

Wow, a 60% increase would impress me as well as the owner I'm sure! That reminds me, the air filter is a K&N Oil short ram, you mentioned once that this may decrease? mileage gains due to cooler air intake. Should the owner consider returning back to a stock air filter?

Also, we have yet to re-gap the spark plugs, once we find them.

Will definitely report back with results in the future.

As requested, here you go Tracy.

The Re-routing of the PCV/Breather hoses.

Nice work Jason, I can only aspire to have a steady hand like you!

Wayne, SC
Gadgetman Carolinas

Thanks again, Jason! Man that is a super nice clean dare I say Textbook PCV re-route.

I think we should remember to refer to those pics when explaining this Mod to anyone, it's so CLEEN and obvious. Just perfect.


Only question left for me is--was there already a nipple on the K&N duct where the Breather hose goes, or did ya have to add one. Either way it's just very clean & direct!

Tracy G

It was already there, so it was an easy job.

Update: No mileage gains noted yet unfortunately (averaging about the same). I'm assuming it's due to a check engine light which needs to be dealt with. The customer thinks it's a transmission issue.

Another thing I want to bring up again is the air filter. Should a standard air filter be used in place of the oil K&N Ram filter?
Ron made mention to me once that it's better to stay away from these type of filters as they take us in the opposite direction for fuel economy due to cold air intake. Would this possibly be causing the lack of any fuel gains?

Also,the idling has gotten a little rough lately, often the gas pedal needs applied during start up. I'm thinking the idle air solenoid valve needs cleaned.

Any suggestions?

I always clean the IAC valve on any TB I do. IT's right there, and grunge is it's enemy. Severely grungy IAC can stick open causing sudden high RPM...

Tracy G

As Tracy says, it's always a good idea to spend a little solvent cleaning the IAC when you have it in your hands. But from what you describe, it appears you will need to open the path just a tad. If you don't, come Winter, it will be a real issue for the owner.

One location to look for the leaks is in the exhaust with a valve test. Further, these vehicles suffer from the all-too-common vac leaks from the brake booster. Please go to and read every word, watch every video on every post, beginning with Post One. There is a wealth of information there, and should be very easy to understand.

There is the knowledge you seek. I promise!

And you know better than to let a check engine light occur without knowing what it's from!

SHAME on you!

Ok I have a new knot on my noggin--I whacked my head w/ a stick, as Ron isn't here to do it for me!

And I DESERVE the whack/knot..for I haven't been using Ron's diagnostic's section!!

my bad... I'll sure be using it from now on!

dear Gawd, how did I miss this....Thank you again, Ron!

Ron is The Man, folks...

READ this diagnostics section, watch the vid's ALL OF IT no foolin!

tracy g (small letters on purpose!)