TOPIC: Grooving ford f150

Hey Christoph, that's some nice lookin' work! How did you open up those barrels on the TB? Sandpaper, a bit,...?? Very nice lookin' Grooves, nice work sanding down the TB base, but I'm just curious exactly what technique you used to open up the bore entrances on this TB.

Was there a pronounced ledge at the entry that ya smoothed away or did you follow an existing contour? I'm sure that will help the results however ya did it!

Thanks,

TracyG Gadgetman Reno

Hey TracyG
I have those high speed soft metal burr pits (router pit) for my air tools thats what I used,worked very good,
And there wasn't a very big ledge ,there was a bit of a tapper already ,I just want to try to round it of nicely

Christoph

Good job on The Groove, Christoph!

I can tell you have a gift by looking at the TB. If you examine the shape of the scrapes on the plates your angle is very close to true. Sloping slightly to the left indicates you're leaning ever so slightly that direction, but a great Groove!

I'm anxious to hear of your results!

Hello thanks Ron I still have to do more driving to see mbg use but for now it runns smoother power I can''t realy tell yet we have bad weather und slipery roads .
As soon as I got more results I will post them

Thanks Christoph

Hello guys

I was just wondering with the relearn technique should the fuel consumption go down right away or does it take a few Tank fills ?? because today I went for a drive and got the same MBG as before Mod, it runs better and has a bit more power not a lot!
Would colder weather increase fuel use ? test drive before mod we had 5 F today we had -5,9 F would it matter ?

Thanks Christoph

That is an excellent question, Chris!

The answer, not being too wordy is YOU BETCHA!!!! The ECU monitors the temp of the exhaust at the cat and increases fuel delivery until it reaches "operating temperature".

HIGHLY recommended for this reason is to insulate your exhaust. Your O2 sensors at a minimum.

The only reason I know why a vehicle will not show mileage gains right out of the gate is...

(Can you guess?)

Vac leak.

Did you get the PCV port capped? I believe it's on the backside of the intake behind the TB.

Hello Ron

I god the pcv plugged off and the spark plugs gapped and egr valve blocked off , I guess I have to check for vacc leaks again which I have already done with carb cleaner but who know maybe I missed something

Thanks Christoph

Hey guys

Need help checked for vacc leaks for hours could' t find one, one other thing when I start the truck it runns nice for a while then it almost stalls,then it coms back to runn normal again ? Tested all the sensores they look good, the only thing is the 02 sensore ( whitch I replaced ) when the RPM start to drop the sensor stards to read higher and higher reading up 1 volt then then it drops again and the egine runns normal again,and that just keeps on going

Thanks Christoph

Its starving for air it needs a larger hole diff temps reflect iac

Agreed.

When you cut off all the other sources of air from the intake, the engine must readapt. If the IAC path (including the valve itself!) cannot accommodate the reduction, then the engine will not idle correctly being starved for air.

It appears you have done too much in the interest of getting gains.

1) Cut The Groove.
2) Cap the PCV system.
3) Vac Check.

That's the basic procedure, and the first step to achieving success. Doing too much at once makes diagnostics difficult in many cases. I would reattach the EGR and see what that does.

Your IAC is questionable at best. NEW ones are required when troubleshooting, not used from a junk yard. Don't waste time and give yourself frustration over such an inexpensive part.

Have fun!

Ron

Thanks guys

I gonna get right on it , one more starving the engine for air at idle only affects idle right ? Wouldn't affect anything else ??

Thanks Christoph

Looking at your pics, Christoph, it looks to me like this TB--the IAC air path; The entry slots you filled in dump air in on the side away from the Groove?

If restoring EGR doesn't fix it, perhaps cut a small trench in bottom of epoxy filler to reconnect IAC center port w/ each barrel? Also as Ron says use a new IAC valve if yours is questionable. I don't remember if your O2's were mentioned(I'm ASSUMING they are OK?)

W/ such cold temps the engine NEEDS some increased air to achieve a fast idle, just like the choke/fast idle speed on carbs. Fast idle helps engine warm up quicker. This in turn helps avoid problems w/ cold operation; condensation in crankcase not being evaporated, ECU in open loop too long, unburned fuel in cats/exhaust, etc.

I would Restrict IAC function but not Eliminate it, it is required in cold temps, IMHO.

But I'm still very much a student here.

You are making excellent progress Christoph, keep at it!

TracyG Gadgetman Reno