Yeah it's amazing how grunged-up TB's can get! I always clean 'em first...
You are Well on your way w/ this one. Once you get all the sensors dialed in, then do the re-learn procedure. I think this one is going to make you Grin:P
Nice pics, too, Thanks!
'Bout only suggestion I have would be use caution w/ power sponge cleaning of a mounting surface, don't want to remove actual material, just grunge. I will use carb. cleaner, shop towels, maybe a light duty scotchbrite type pad by hand for stubborn gasket material or grunge. don't use Scotchlock (I think that's what they are called) type w/ blue/red or brown discs that twist onto a mandrel in a die grinder. I've seen displays in machine shops warning against using those on sealing surfaces, block decks, etc. Those can strip off iron and esp. aluminum and you won't notice but the engine will!
Keep at it, Great job and post!
TracyG Gadgetman Reno
Gadgetman Reno, NV
Yep, nice job on the groove. Sounds like you've been doing yer homework.
One suggestion, I noticed on the entry side of the Throttlebody there is a thin line that looks like a shelf that runs around the venturi. You might want to polish that down so you have a smooth surface throughout.
I sure hope you're not biting off more than you can chew!
First, the ECU should be allowed to adjust to The Groove before doing all that stuff. I have seen some really strange error codes pop when I tried to do too much too quick. (Your TPS code... Was it there before Grooving? Critical info.) You can't trust what it says...
How about ABS, Generator, and (I can't recall the third) all at once after Grooving? By filling in and recutting The Groove a little further downstream, ALL the codes vanished like a thief in the night. The only things I approve doing (modification wise) are 1) Cut the Groove -and- 2) Cap the PCV.
That brings me to (and is the foundation for) #2. Following the instructions is a real good thing to do. While we feel compelled to jump in and do it all at once, the order of modifications should be followed to master one technique at a time.
Please be patient. The basics of Grooving remain the same, and were put together for a LOT of very good reasons. The first is to teach you as I learned. Second, if your install fails to produce mileage, we cannot accurately diagnose as you have tossed in too many variables and thirdly, the ECU adaptation.
You will become a master, Chris. I think every veteran Groover on this forum will agree with that.
You are probably too young to remember the old TV series Kung Fu with David Carradine. It was a GREAT show, every episode tying together a life experience with a lesson while in the temple learning his art.
His master had one thing he used to tell him all the time.
Great work! Now, I would suggest filling and recutting The Groove with the large bit and quit messing around! THEN watch the fuel trims!!!
PS: I would suspect you have some debris in the connecter for the TPS. Nothing more. So, take the connector apart and clean with spray both male and female ends. If you have air, blow it out when done. If not, then leave it to air-dry. (Blow dryer or heat gun works. Just be sure not to use it near a lot of fumes or we could wind up reading about you in the papers!
Your photos don't show the throttle plate, so I can't tell which direction it opens in toward the intake manifold, but that's where you want the groove. Go down to the '90 Mitsubishi Montero thread in recent topics and at the bottom of page 1 Ron drew a diagram showing the correct location.
When a screw gets stripped try using the metal cutoff wheel bit on your dremel to recut the slots.
Chris, you know you can post your pics right into your messages? That would make it faster for all and make your info more available at first view.
Appreciate your documentation!
PS: How many miles was there on your "New" IAC valve? I guarantee if it was in the junk yard it was there for a reason! You should soak your old IAC in straight gasoline for a day to clean out all the gook that is causing it to be sticky... That ought to make it work better.
That might be a better gain in MPG than you first thought Chris. If you're getting 1 MPG more now in winter it could be more like 4-5 in summer conditions. Plus do they put ethanol in your area gas year round or only in winter. If winter only then might be an actual 20% or so gain but masked by current conditions!
Doin' great, buddy!
TracyG Gadgetman Reno
Gadgetman Reno, NV
As yours has a few years on it, be sure to do the valve check (
) and respond appropriately. I have a feeling you may have some valves that are slow in operations. This causes more decay at idle, less at off-idle.
But if you learn only ONE thing here in Gadgetman Land, learn that you can NEVER trust a computer! Especially one programmed by people that have not our interests at heart, but their own.
You will need to actually measure the fuel usage to get an accurate count. Ask Dan Merrick about the MPG's reported onboard vs actual usage.