TOPIC: pre-groove vehicle prep

is there a pre-groove checklist anywhere that I can consult?

I have a 13 yr old mazda with ~378k km (225k + Miles) that I'd like to get grooved. just did a spark plug replacement and cleaned the air filter and MAF...oil up next. Upsized tires, alignment.
General stuff.

Is there anything more specialized or specific I can look into to maximize the effectiveness of the groove?
should I do a Big 3 grounding? should I increase my sparkplug gap?
should I check my 02 sensors?
should I vaccuum test my engine?
should I check my engine compresssion?

Heysoundude, I've not written such a list, it's in my noggin.

All the above is recommended. O2's, upstream at least, if original, or over say 50-60 K miles(Km conversion needed) likely need replaced w/ factory OEM parts, not aftermarket. Look for any likely intake vacuum leaks-hoses, tubes, power brake booster, whatever. Remember the Groove will magnify any intake vac. leak.
Ron always told us to increase plug gaps 20% over stock. Improving grounds is always a good idea, worth checking grounds for ECU, engine sensors too. Compression test a good idea too. The fuel savers button top of site front page has a bit from Ron on RVS friction treatment. I've used it, I think it works.
Good thinking on your part, xclennt questions of pre-Groove prep, condition of engine/vehicle matters! Thank you for illuminating the topic!

Tracy G

so this is a 2001 mazda? hook up to scanner and make sure cat and o2s are working normal if they have not ever been changed I would to get best performance and then after the groove put a cold vapor system on it and whatch the big gains in mpg dan merrick

Yes Dan, a 2001 Mazda b3000 pickup. A rebadged ranger with some tweaks to the Ford package to differentiates it from a marketing perspective.

What's this cold vapor system?? Is it the same as Bruce McBurney's version of the condensator? (He's the closest gadgetman to me, geographically, at about 12 miles away. Can't believe I've been driving past his place all these years...)

To the best of my recollection, the o2 sensors are the ones that came from the factory. This is my one and only vehicle. From a humanistic if not legal point of view, lowering my emissions to negligible or non existent is ideal. Doing that while saving money on fuel (which I use quite a bit of) and giving my old boy of a rusty trusty a bit of a new lease on life, well, who could ask for more?

nothing like Bruces I figured a way for the ecu to do all the controlling in a vapor form most systems dont work as the afr changes under different loads and atmosphere pressures Mine will adjust to it all. Nothing out there exactly like it I have had a few copycats but they call all the time as I have not told or shown it all to them. research merricks vortex system on google and keep in touch if your interested Im working a deal with the country of Equador and still trying to get into Costa Rica as this has been going on for about 5 years now. Dan Merrick

I always tell folks to pay attention to Dan, he is a serious Guru for us, heysoundude. You're that close to Bruce McBurney... crikey! Ron Hatton really likes Bruce...

But it's true, Dan's system IS unique, and ingenious too if I may say so! Wish I could use it, but all my current rides are old school carbureted, no kompewtur.

Tracy G

Noted, Tracy. And thank you, Dan.

As an interesting aside, I decided to name my truck Ron because he's red and likes to run; a close friend suggested It as a solid, reliable man's name, because he has been nothing but. . Maybe Mr Hatton will get a chuckle from that.

My name, BTW, is Greg. And yes, within 15 miles of a giant!

So it seems basic vehicle maintenance and repair are just the beginning, before getting grooved.

Next is the decision on what other options to combine with the groove for maximum effect.

Do they all work together? the Groove + Bruce's Compensator + Dan's Cold Vapor system, for instance? will the $1000 or so investment in my old 20-ish MPG truck turn it into a 40-50 (or more?) MPG competitor to modern vehicles, with better emissions?

Greg, only way to know is to try. BTW- I think I don't know for sure- Bruce's Compenstor is similar to the Condensator product to catch crud from PCV gas flow. You might ask Bruce about that...

I've come up w/ my own setups to remove oil, water and crud from PCV gas flow, look in the forum Index for air oil separator AOS, or home built catch can. Dan has good ideas of how to utilize the chemical makeup of crankcase gasses to benefit. Dan, Bruce and Ron Hatton of course are guru's, and you Greg are in potential position to learn from all 3 of them.

The Groove, all our Gadgetman tricks, and all the mods around can do a lot- the other half of equation is how the vehicle is driven. Increasing fuel vaporization, improving ignition, reducing all kinds of dynamic losses, can work wonders, esp. if combined. I have broken the 70MPG barrier once so far in an ideal-conditions hiway test w/ my Subaru, though it averages far less in real-world.

I advocate a systems approach, think of the different vehicle systems, fuel, ignition, engine oiling, crankcase ventilation, etc. Remember that parasitic losses reduced equal gains. Just cranking up the windows, tires inflated to or somewhat above sidewall spec, taking excess weight out of bed/trunk, driving smoothly- eyes may roll at mention of these "lowly" ideas, but these are free and will give some gain, and should be kept in mind as well as basic maintenance. The stage has to be set before the proverbial Fat Lady will come out and sing...

Greg, I recommend a study of the Index section of the forum, there's a LOT of info back there. Also the Fuel savers button on site front page--(RVS!) Ron also told us to hold paper/card stock at tailpipe as engine is idling, see if the paper is sucked to pipe by exhaust pulses. If it is Ron said to use ATF (Trans fluid) in oil and gas to remove valvetrain deposits causing sticky valves.

Who Knows how far you might take your Mazda Greg? I've taken my Subaru from a car that couldnt get out of it's way, to one that does quite well in traffic, and has far exceeded it's EPA economy rating. This whole thing is a process of discovery, more journey than destination IMHO. I've attempted to attack every kind of parasitic loss I could by any means practical.

Short answer-Yes they will work together. You must work at it for best results.

Tracy G

Believe me, I drive like a granny. and I've long since been inflating my tires to the max, and driving in the highest gear at or below the posted speed limit. I'm planning on testing the exhaust suck tomorrow. And I'm in touch with Bruce (being my local guru) when he gets back to me, and I just emailed Dan moments ago. I can't believe how friendly and approachable everyone here is!

Now that the weather is better and I've spent a winter researching and benchmarking (as well as letting RVS work its way through/around/in my engine, transmission and differential), I've come to the conclusion that this is indeed a process, and that one change to your vehicle's engine/powertrain has repercussions that implicate further changes.

For each change to spark plug gap, you should also address your idle speed, which means recalibrating the IAC, and then reprogramming the ECU for instance.

Do a big 3 or 4 grounding? That means you can probably tweak your plugs again, so back to idle and IAC and ECU reprogram after checking your TPS.

I'm reminded of tuning my instrument, when I played.

Resistorless plugs? Plasma ignition? Clean air filter and/or MAF? change of oil grade? Air-oil seperator installed w/ PCV re-route? Heated throttle body/intake manifold bypass? EGR defeat? Re-tune, re-tune, re-tune, re-tune and re-tune again. Be at one with your machine. Be proper, be thorough, be patient and mindful. I get it now. Zen. Brilliant.