Hey Pete, I just did one. What I did- is I turned the idle speed stop screw in about 1 1/2 turns, this way the Grooves are cut a bit deeper in the bores. This way, if it turns out it needs a bit more throttle opening to support proper idle speed, the Grooves are properly positioned. This is due to filling/recutting the IAC air channels, will restrict IAC flow. This in turn may not provide high enough idle RPM's, (and will possibly result in too-low cold engine fast idle RPM's.)
The idle air channels can be enlarged a bit to increase IAC flow if needed.
IF you leave the throttles in stock as-driven position, do your Grooves, and then need to turn idle speed screw in to maintain good idle RPM, the plates will be "into the Groove" already at idle- not a good idea.
The business card in the bores trick can do the same thing, I usually just do that on drive by wire TB's. Note that opening the throttle plates before Grooving puts Grooves deeper in bores-the Large bit fit w/ about a fingernail of bore material remaining downstream of Grooves. If the idle speed screw is backed out from where I cut Grooves, then the plates will hit the Grooves just a little off idle, which will work great. I figured all this out without the truck present, done by mail, he's doing some custom mods on his Chevy TBI and induction, should be interesting.
Sorry, not the best pics, I'm no photographer!
He filled in all vacuum taps, PCV, MAP sensor vac. well, and wanted the IAC flow to enter further away from the Grooves. If it was a stock TBI, I would have put the IAC throttle bore entry "T" cut direct over throttle shafts instead if thru the MAP sensor vac. well wall. You can either make 2 smaller IAC channels in the IAC fill, or one larger center one w/ the "T" cut to the bores, the T single one is faster, is all.
Tracy G