Re: MPG R and gasoline Octane, my experience agrees w/ heysoundude. The power/driveability of the Subie is markedly better w/ midgrade gas+ MPG R, that's what Subie has now. Way better low RPM/low throttle torque, means I can drive "in the Groove" much more in town. I have to add throttle from stop on offramp going uphill carefully or it breaks loose now! Faster acceleration to freeway speeds, less throttle needed to maintain speed. For the subie, the midgrade is the choice for sure. Don't know re:ethanol % of the various grades here, but the butt-dyno tells me the truth!
yes PL's arent going away YET, but once ya have it ya have it!
spark plugs: is access difficult on the Dodge? Is it coil-on-plug or coil packs? Remember to always wait for engine to cool completely before pulling plugs, (aluminum heads//plug threads,) and a small dab of anti-seize on plug threads when re-installing after re-gapping. If original factory plugs, it's a good idea to carefully R/R them just to avoid trouble from being "stuck" from age/miles/carbon. Wear on electrodes will tell story if need replacement. I like Torquemaster stainless surface-gap plugs, more $$, but Subie sure likes 'em!! ( no side electrode to gap, will get the "most spark" possible from stock Ignitions).
RVS complete engine/drivetrain treatment is a GREAT idea..
work along at your own pace, you will be grinning along the Way Barry!
Gadgetman Reno, NV
I checked out the link Tracy - and I'm very interested in the Torquemaster spark plugs. I had always wondered why that design wasn't incorporated in automotive applications. (I recall my dad's outboard boat motor using them back in the 80's). These are definitely worth looking at for my dodge, and would likely be the last I'd have to buy, however, I need to think about when I get them as they'll cost me close to $200 for the 16; not to mention the exchange rate for our Canadian dollar these days.
I think I'll move up to mid-grade gas for the next tank and see how it does with MPG R. And, I found a DIY "catch can" that looks easy to make. I'll post a few pictures of my PCV hoses first to get comments on how to properly route them.
Search the forums for the PCV re-route. The trick may be locating/accessing the valve. Route the line coming from the valve into the can, and then T the output of the can into the breather line. Cap the port on the intake you got the PCV line from and Bob's your uncle!
Might as well open up those plugs while you've got the hood open and sleeves rolled up.
I'll bet on 3+ MPG with these 3 changes in place. Any takers?
Right Barry, the Torquemasters should last about forever, they are pricey, but still about half the cost of, say, the Pulstar plugs (I've tried those too).
There are different ways to make a PCV catch can, I've posted and use 2 different ones, look in the forum Index. The BMW cyclone AOS works great, I just made a small drain can from PVC fittings and some hose. I got the BMW cyclone AOS on ebay, about 30 bucks. Ebay has about a zillion different catch-cans, in different anodized colors, I studied them all then made my own from a metal water bottle. You want something that will actively do separation of vapors/liquids from the PCV crankcase gas stream, and provide a reservoir to hold that liquid. The BMW Cyclone Air-Oil-Separator (AOS) is cool since it's small and will fit under most any hood, you just put a hose on the bottom drain port and connect to some kind of reservoir container underneath. You just cut the PCV-to-manifold vac. hose and connect the hose ends to the nipples on the BMW AOS. It takes less time to understand this while looking at this in person, than to write all this. I'll let others explain the PCV re-route, or just read in Index, it's simple. Yes get some good pics of the PCV and makeup breather hoses, and find the PCV valve.
I'd pull one or two spark plugs, then judge the condition to see if you can get away w/ just re-gapping 'em for now. Can upgrade plugs when $$ allows.
If along w/ these things, you start using MPG Remedy, and do the RVS treatments to engine/trans/drivetrain, you could see substantial gains. Add in tire press, and careful driving habits-- well maybe 5+ MPG's...or more. Believe it and you will do it.
Gadgetman Reno, NV
You'll need to do some homework, but I'm sure someone out there (on a Dodge/Hemi forum) can tell you how to move the wires around so that BOTH plugs fire at the same time for a more complete burn on the Power Cycle of each cylinder. And if your Ignition is Coil-on-Plug, my suspicion is that you can go pretty large on the re-gap.