TOPIC: 2001 Ford F150 5.4L Crew Cab

First off I would like to thank Gadget Man Ron for the wisdom,
You are a good guy!
Thank you!

I will post updates/things on my truck as I go along...
I tried to order the groove bits but no reply...
I need a gadget man to groove my throttle Body...PM me thanks.

Thanks Guys!

I found a good use for the PCV fitting on the back of the intake plenum...
it go's to a boost Vacuum Gauge inside the truck!
The best trainer to become a better eco driver!
More Vacuum more green crap! lol

Wait a second...
ok, I just checked your pics again. My first glance made me think you had it connected to the PCV valve itself and were going to be seeing funny things. Nice install, BTW!

Where in the US are you located? (I can tell it's the US from your speedo) You may have a Gadgetman, bits at the ready, right in your own back yard!

Thanks heysoundude...
Anchorage, Alaska,

So this 5.4L truck is new to me and I don't have a lot of run time on it yet,
bought it broken....just got it fixed, it had eaten an intake valve and bent the exhaust valve, you know how it is
new valves> head gaskets> timing chains> piston...on and on...runs good now...what a tough engine =]

over gaped the plugs %20, indexed the plugs too.

I also have a std cab 4.6L witch would get 16.5 mpg summer time driving,
And 14 to 15 winter mpg.

so my last tank on the 5.4L got 15.2 mpg half city half highway witch is better then my 4.6L during winter...awesome! with just over gap 20% +index plugs and PCV delete...will post more pics.

my goal is 20+ mpg....

So on the topic of the idler I made a plate with an 1/8 hole for air and and installed it...
I had to back the throttle body flapper rest screw out for it to start to Idle right/run...cold start,
but found that it was killing my vacuum down to 19hg and would idle higher sitting at stop lights
so I pulled it off and let the Idler do its job and it went back to 21hg and Idling lower...

Im at a loss for the 1/8 Idler hole... that Idler is keeping my vacuum higher in the full RPM range and my engine idle lower...dose not leak vacuum form what I can tell... so I pulled it off and left it alone...

HG Vacuum
At idle 21hg,
Accelerating 7 to 10hg
Highway 65mph 12 to 14hg,> I plan to increase to 18 to 20hg

Thanks guys...

Ultrashotone, well I don't remember any G-men in Alaska. IF you tried to contact Collette to get a PL kit thats the 3 bits and training DVD...keep trying. She's notoriously bad re: communications, unfortunately! But she does eventually come through.

If on the other hand, you don't want to wait much longer, etc. I can help you out. In fact maybe we can help each other out...I have a spare Ford TB, I Grooved it months ago, along with something custom. It was from a Ford Triton V8, pretty sure it was the 5.4L. Even if you do get the Pl kit, I'd still like to speak about this TB.

MY email add: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

And good deal on your Pre-Groove results so far! that's encouraging isn't it? This stuff works.

Tracy G

Restricting the idle air control valve's flow at this point, prior to grooving...well, you learned the hard way that it's jumping the gun. Especially if you had the defrost on.
That valve allows more air into the engine/manifold when the engine is cold or under load.

Do you understand the function of the Throttle position sensor?

Ultrashotone, you have had much the same experience with that Idle Air Control restrictor plate as others here, esp. Karl. But you tried it and quickly figured it out! Nice way to hook in that vacuum gauge, BTW, nice clean install w/ the gauge. I notice that your vacuum gauge in/hg. readings are nice and high, Anchorage is Sea level, right? Doing good. BTW, you already know all 'bout the spark plug deal w/ these engines, right? I think it's mainly called don't leave them in really long so they don't get carboned up to cause the problems associated w/ this design. Ron Hatton had Real fun w/ this when he was moving up to Montana in '13.

Cool that you've gone through the repairs to this 5.4, now it's done, you get the Benefits!

These Triton's are great engines from what I've heard and read, I've Grooved a couple too. I especially like the big v-10 one, even with it's own spark plug/coil issues.

Anyhow, with the intake man. mounted Ford IAC's like yours, it may just be best to leave 'em be, unlike so many others I've modded successfully.

Glad you're here, brother, you could become the Gadgetman Anchorage!

Tracy G

That'll be the quickest, buying Tracy's grooved TB. Install, reprogram your ECU and you're well on the way!
I suggest adding a K&N air filter to the stock air box and changing out your O2 sensors, and start using the MPG remedy in the ethanol-free gas I think Alaska mandates, and you'll be close to or better than your 20MPG. I'd also clean your MAF sensor too, given the humidity of Anchorage. And then, if the engine/powertrain has over 100k miles on it, I'd also consider adding RVS to engine, transmission, transfer case and differentials to reduce blow by and tighten up tolerances, reducing any parasitic losses of energy transfer to the road.
Have you increased your tire pressure yet?

It sounds in this example, that the IAC valve is actually closing off at off idle speeds, or at least off idle when engine is hot. Ron Hatton liked to and taught us to do the Mod you did here to this IAC valve. One thing, though- Ron was in Phoenix Arizona at the time. Hot climate.

In any event, it sounds like this IAC is doing what it's supposed to, closing off when not needed.
Going out on a limb- we like anyone want to have and believe in One size fits all solutions to problems. Meaning you can restrict the IAC on any injected engine. And do it the same way to the same degree every time. But what worked for Ron in Phoenix, hasn't worked for Ultrashotone, and also didn't work for Karl back on Long Island. I'm tempted to think that this will be across the board w/ this. BUT, here's going out on the limb, w/ a guess or hunch...I remember Ford, back in the Eighties, had myriads of different Emissions equipment on their engines. I remember looking at emissions vacuum hose maps in big manuals, and there were often 5. 6 or more different emissions configurations/ hose routing setups for any one engine. The Vacuum Maps went on for pages...

Now, more recently, I recall researching about the PCV systems for Triton and smaller 4 cyl. Fords, in the current OBDII time. There have been 2 or 3 different config's for the PCV's, one non heated, and one electrically heated, and one coolant-heated. I posted about the PCv re-route I did on a buddy's Ford F-150 5.4 crew cab, likely about what Ultrashotone has. There was some kind of extra hose/vacuum nipple for his PCv system, I posted pics in the Index of it, check it out, Ultra. Point being- with Ford's they do things differently for different markets/regions/climates, the systems are configured different depending. IT could even be different ECU programming...

Anyhow, Ultrashotone, you did the common-sense thing, I'm glad for it!

Tracy G

Thanks TracyG! I will Email you soon...

I'm going to get some real Gadget man groove bits or have it done right...But Ive been playing with my copy cat knockoffs bits...

heysoundude
will have to play with it more > with out the blocker plate with my fake grooves I get 21hg vacuum at 800rpm warm or cold.
I put the plate 1/8 hole restricted on the idler and it will not idle at cold start so i bump up the butterfly valve screw to make it idle 600rpm...after it warms up it go's to 1100rpm...19hg

Im familiar with the Throttle position sensor...
I lost you at defroster > having it on would lengthen engine warm up time...

Yep MAF cleaned and new o2's are in need to check the rubber things again...will look into the RVS
I am very thankful for the help Guys!