our MVAC system, when engaged in most positions of that rotary switch, engages the compressor which presents a load to the engine. There's a mod to switch it off, which you can no doubt do easily since you put the vacuum gauge in so nicely. I'll see if I can dig up the link for you, but it will allow you to disengage the compressor for extra engine power on long uphill climbs, for instance.
I'd bet if you performed the IAC re-calibration with that restrictor plate on, you'd be able to get it idling nice and low. look around on here...I shared it in one of the forums.
As far as the roles of sensors and computer, walk with me:
from after the air filter, the first one you'd encounter as an air molecule on the way to combustion is the combined MAF and IAT sensor that tells the computer the actual weight of air present before the throttle plate (remember 14.7:1 air-fuel ratio is of weights of each). the throttle plate is cracked open a wee bit to allow enough air in for the engine to idle, and the TPS tells the computer what that angle is, so it guesstimates how much air is getting in so it can guesstimate how long each injector stays open based on ~6 lbs/gallon. say the TPS is reporting 11 degrees of opening, divided by 90 is .12222, so 12% of the air in front of the throttle plate is getting past it, so injectors only need to stay on for ~12% of their maximum. into the cylinder, bang, and out past the upstream O2, where the math is checked and it adjusts fuel delivery.
All of this, hundreds of times per minute.
Now, when the ECT sensor reports cold (below 92-95 degrees in Fords), the computer dumps the maximum amount of fuel dictated by engineers in Detroit to run, EPA standards be damned, because the Catalytic converter will clean that up. And this is where the IAC valve comes in: it sneaks in more and more air past the "closed" throttle to balance out what the injectors are firing into the chambers until the upstream O2 says "woah, enough, this engine has to get up to operating temperature, and it does that by burning fuel." Once the IAC closes fully, your engine will be rapidly approaching proper temp and the coolant system will start to operate to keep it there and the computer will enter closed loop with lean fuel delivery.
Have you noticed that the amount of fuel delivered depends on what the computer THINKS the engine needs based on how much air it THINKS it's taking in until that gets verified by the O2 sensors on the way out, well after the fact? Bass-ackwards, isn't it?
This is where the groove comes in. In the videos Ron talks about a waveform of little balls of air in the intake manifold. in combining fuel with these balls of air better than just the factory air stream, we're creating a fuel charge in the cylinders more rich than the computer is accustomed to seeing, and when it sees that at the O2 sensor, it trims delivery way back from where the throttle plate tells it it should be, until it's re-learned what Detroit taught it.
Here's the rub: 14.7 masses of air to 1 mass of gasoline is for sea-level, open air combustion...an engine cylinder is a warmer place with much more air pressure than at sea level on this planet, and that has an effect on how much air and fuel are needed to create a powerful enough instantaneous explosion to move the piston with the most possible force. Those videos Ron made show air-fuel ratios up toward or maybe even above 20:1, post groove, with super low emissions. Right, we've super-fine tuned a mechanism to operate to our specifications, not to the wide range of possibilities that auto manufacturers have to take into consideration.
Wayne, I just emailed you re: the special TB I have. I spoke in the email of the Gadgetman bits, before I came in here, and saw your wanna be bits. Do tell, how did you get that bit, did you make it yourself?
The quasi-subject of fake Gadgetman bits, has been spoken of indirectly, by me, a month or two after I got my bits and training from Ron. My Subaru had the stock OEM 2 bbl carb, and the throttle body base was made of iron. I was Paranoid to risk my precious new G-Man bits on iron, so I went and saw a toolmaker who told me he'd never seen anything like Gadgetman bits. He made a cut down ball cutter bit for me, and I did a partial Groove in that Japanese carb. base, then finished it w/ the Real McCoy. I felt a bit sheepish having gone and had a fake one made, but I didn't want to risk that Precious Gadgetman bit! I explained it all to Ron, and he gave me his blessings to do it, he had already met me in person and we spent almost a week together working and me training with Ron.
These bits we use, are specially made in quantity, the only way to get it done, and it COSTS $$$. Blanks for these simply don't exist they need made specially. Ron had trouble with different tool makers too, he told me of buying lots of bits that weren't right. He's not kidding about the special shapes and angles involved, and the old toolmaker I met confirmed this too.
I admire your desire to join this "Fraternity of Modders", Wayne. Ron always spoke of we Gadgetmen as a Family. Few folks have the vision to see the potential the Groove holds. Still fewer go through the investment and study it takes to get this stuff right. I've persisted with all this since poor Ron met with misfortune, 'cause I've experienced what this can do first hand! It's a challenge, and I like helping like minded folks too. And every now and then, I get a real kick when one of my Groove jobs excells. It's just too dang bad that Ron, and so many great G-Men have fallen away, but we are still here, and, the Groove is still around!
so, I'm Glad to see you here, Wayne, you should get the Pl and join in the Fun, you already got your feet wet! Welcome to Gadgetman Land!
PS- you did a reasonable job w/ your TB not having the real bits, and that's a nice polish job in that bore too!
Gadgetman Reno, NV
heysoundude thanks for the info...
I got your e-mail Tracy! I'll take it!
My biggest thing was no activity there to order or have it done...but had I to try it...
tell I posted on this forum...
I'm looking forward to trying a real TB!
The bits I ground down with a grinder that's the only way to cut the hard steel...
I also did a full ECU shutdown with the jumper cable tonight...note I've never seen this ford gauges cycle all the way up and down before....crazy!
did what I could tell was the reprogram method... start up run tell warm shut down 3 to 4 times > then start up drive 10 ft shut down > start up drive 35mph touching gas peddle easy for 2min shut down > start up drive 45mph touching gas peddle easy for 2min shut down > start up drive 100+mph hitting gas peddle hard shut down > Done!
LOL, Wayne you are learning fast. That's the re-learn method I include in the instructions I send out with Mail Groove jobs. I just stretch it out a bit more, more speed steps, etc. Interesting to see if this gives any more improvements until you get the double Groove special one.
Pretty determined adventurism making you own bit! The old tool maker I visited yrs ago, had this old style view-scope machine, it had a big round screen like a WW2 Radar screen. He put one of my Gadgetman bits into it, and we could see in great blown-up magnified detail the shapes in this bit. Was real interesting! That is when he said he'd never seen anything like our bits. Actually his shop had over 50 different machine stations, and many of them looked right from the WW2 era. He was a one-man operation, with help, that shop could do some serious things! Was an honor to meet and speak with him, he was really nice too. Backround and experience like his is incredibly valuable.
Check you Email, Wayne! Oh, BTW, did you cut back the throttle blade, or just polish it?
Gadgetman Reno, NV