TOPIC: Sticky Valves?

Truck is a Ford 1977 with a 302.
Throwing this video out there for those who have a lot more knowledge than I.
My nephews truck is burning oil and is running what seems rough to me.
Placed a paper over the exhausts(duel 8 cylinder) and this is what I saw.
Is this normal or is the flapping an indication of a problem?
Added RVS and ran it for about 20 minutes idle before video.
See no difference yet but its only 20 min and they are hesitant to drive for burning oil and speedometer out of commission(they believe electrical problems)
Some smoke out of filler cap and exhaust.
*********...Having trouble uploading the video here
Since the video is unable to upload I will paint a picture.
There seem to be a vacuum on the exhaust where the piece of paper is being sucked back onto the tailpipe after expelled.
This usually is an indication of a sticking valve but my brother in law notified me that there is a massive vac leak at the gasket between
manifold and exhaust pipe. Dont think this would cause the vacuum pulling the paper back into the tailpipe but just adding this into the equation on finding the problem.

Um, One step at a time. If there are known issues with the condition/maintenance of this truck, it makes sense to me to fix them first before trying to diagnose anything else.
Like that massive leak you mentioned; All the additives in the world won't take care of issues like that: if that gasket needs replacing, do it, then we can work on figuring out if it needs a valve job or overhaul or hauling to the graveyard. Right?

Greg,
Dont know if it has a leaking gasket, just know it is burning oil.
Thought a leak around the cylinders and called Justin asking if RVS ever fixed something like that and
he gave a positive response to that. He has seen many vehicles burn oil that RVS fixed.
Then I decided to do an exhaust check when I found the issue with the vacuum as seen in the video.
Looking for insight on what might be causing the vacuum.
Heard sticking valves would do such and am wondering if there might be a course of action
to find out for sure what it might be before doing more aggressive measures that are unnecessary.

Here’s a reminder for you, sir:

kman wrote: my brother in law notified me that there is a massive vac leak at the gasket between
manifold and exhaust pipe. Dont think this would cause the vacuum pulling the paper back into the tailpipe but just adding this into the equation on finding the problem.

That’s what should get fixed first. Then we can get deeper into what can be done.

It sounds to me you have a serious issue with one valve in particular, amigo! The noise is too intense and regular. The intake stroke is occuring while one of your exhaust valves are open.

It's time for a compression test (dry and wet) to identify which cylinder is affected. Of course, that is if you've attempted cleaning the valves with B-12 Chemtool first.

The leak in your exhaust manifold gasket WILL have negative effects on your mileage, too. The exhaust loses its potency before the O2 sensor which is the primary reference point for determining the AFR. The most dense in the exhaust stream exits the system upstream, giving it a false LEAN reading.

As to burning oil, there is nothing better-or CHEAPER-on the market than Snake Oil.

Here's a video from one of our own, John Haroldson of Bethel, Alaska on how he stopped consuming two gallons of oil per MONTH. (that's the number he gave when we spoke before he purchased some.)

All it took was 10 cc's (less than a tablespoon).

Greg,
Brother in law said since bolts are rusted out he is going to have to change exhaust manifold gasket for that since just
changing doughnut is not possible

Ron,
The truck is a '77 F150 302 so there are no sensors.
As far as the B-12, I guess he would have to take the valve cover off for that.
Guess it comes in a spray for the application.
Will check it out and suggest he try that before more aggressive moves others he has talked to are saying it could be.
Wonder if the snake oil will interfere with the RVS since I just applied it and only ran it for less than 30 minutes.
Since the SO is HBN, can I use the unused gear oil SO I have for his crankcase?
I have not used my gear oil SO yet and am leaving here in a day so I would like to see some resolution before I leave
by me sneaking it into his oil since they were very hesitant on the RVS. I would have to sneak it into it while they are out
since I dont see them applying it if RVS will not fix the issue.
He just told me he is taking the truck in Thursday for a leak down and pressure test since he is blowing pressure out
of oil fill cap. If they dont find issue, they will go the next route of ordering whole new engine since they also have problems
with electrical harness.

The sucking in can only be caused by the piston moving down when the exhaust valve is open, Karl.

And the B-12 can be added at any time. I recommend it be used as follows:
1) Add 2 shot glasses of B-12 Injection cleaner to the crankcase of a WARM engine.
2) Start the engine and let it IDLE for at least an hour.
3) Drive normally for at least 30 hours or two weeks, whichever is longer.
3A) Check your oil regularly during this period. It WILL get dirty faster. If it becomes too soiled, change your oil and add another shot and finish the drive cycle.
3B) Also check your valve noise at the tailpipe. If it doesn't improve in the first few hours of run time, then your valve/valve seat is damaged and a head job is warranted.
4) Change your oil and filter.

This should greatly reduce the blow-by gases you mention. Of course, the SO will do even more, but clean the system FIRST!!! It's always better to start with a clean surface before applying any corrective measures.

Happy New Year!!!

Ron


The SO gear oil may indeed be used in the crankcase. At that small of a dose, it can't hurt a thing.