TOPIC: volvo v70 na 1998

ok if i change the name of the file it wont upload. thinking about closing the iac to after the tb and connectin it to the big cap before the tb and adjusting the screw for tb plate, and deal with the low idel at start up. this way the air will all go thru the groove and the maf will not i guess regrister all the air as it is seen ass a small thingy with some wiers on it futher up closer to the air box, as can be seen on one pic the iac takes the air from the airfilterbox. the vaccum i measured to just under 20 psi i think its psi, by hooking up the meter to one off those small connections ehere the iac connects on the picture, i think these pictures show the whole system iac maf and pcv well here is 1 more pic

can see the red a block for the pcv going to manifold on the other side, okidoki any thoughts peolple?
have a smily day

OK Markus thanks for the great pics think I get it now. Here's what I THINK I might try: IAC- I'd just pull off the feed hose to IAc the long one from filter box. I'd put smaller diamater piece of hose inside the long hose to restrict airflow down to maybe 5-10 MM inside hole size. Might need to use 2 or more kinds of hose--like a piece of vacuum hose inside piece of fuel line hose, or whatever works. Fairly easy to play with it that way, no JB etc. involved just hose pieces.

IF ya re-route IAC feed hose to that capped nipple on air inlet duct it won't do anything, that won't let any air into engine. That defeats IAC function. You can use idle stop screw to set a curb idle RPM, but what about cold weather, A/C, etc. come to think of it does your car even have, do you even NEED A/C? Heck you're in SWEDEN!! What's a hot day there, like 70 deg F? I dunno...?

20 inches Hg of vacuum at idle is good BTW!

Would be interesting to see- if ya did re-route the IAC feed hose to the capped air duct port--and opened up the throttle plate w/ idle stop screw--to see if ya could coax vacuum up a little bit while still having enough idle RPM to run...?

For PCV-- did ya re-route PCV hose someplace after put red cap on PCV vacuum nipple? That capped port we're talking about on air inlet duct is where I'd run it to, unless there's another such nipple on air inlet duct. Maybe you talked about that before I don't remember.

Cold weather up north is why IAC hoses/IAc itself is so fat on this one, ya NEED lots of idle air there in winter for fast idle to warm up. Wonder if that stuff is smaller ID for export to North America, IF they did export this engine?

So, my final idea is try your idea w/ re-routing IAC hose and using idle stop screw for idle, see how it works. If it does, then you can just re-connect IAC normally for winter, and maybe use my hose-in-a-hose thing to restrict it.

Doin' good Markus, ya be the Swedish Samaurai!

Tracy G

Hej tracy, i did use 2 caps cut the bigger rubber cap stuc a smaller one in it and cut it at an angel hole size about 5mm, its sitting just before the iac connection where the 3 nipples are.
made me think tha the air stream would be faster ther and maybe affect the groove negarivly?
anyway its in place. The isea that the iac valve never actually shuts made me think that bypassing the maf by refuting the iac to the big caped port on intake tube before tb.
The blocked red pcv is next to a bigger pcv tube that goes into the intake tube if you look carefully you can see it, the caped pcv tube would went there normaly. Thats why its allready reruted by itself
the idea of not caping the iac is to allow air to bypass the maf like it is from faktory but join before the groove, makes sense or? any how, winter here can be minus 15 celcius the futher north all the way to minus 30 celcius , but i try to stay away from the very nort, here today was hot and i used the ac. thanks for your thought. best regards markus