TOPIC: 1998 Toyota Corrola 1800 hatch limted ed. in NZ

Easy to remove TB. Groove straight forward.
TB was filthy and idle adjuster stuck solid.
Disassembled and cleaned every part freeing the idle controller up.

The car is more responsive and mileage as yet to be confirmed.
The idle when warm is much to high (about 2000 rpm) and I will endeavor to find out why.

Does anyone have any ideas?

The mileage is high put the engine runs very well, no noises or smoke, good power.

**just added the year in the subject, 1998**

If this is flyby wire no cable the groove is to close to butterfly or you cut through and have a vacuum leak or other vacuum leak. Check your work close.

Thanks for your reply!

Oops, forgot to mention the year. It's 1998 and it has a cable.

I will do some vacuum testing today.
I suspect the small idle regulator valve is not working properly.
Eventhough it is now beautifully clean it still has a spot where there is some resistance when I turn it. As the drive is indirect (magnet on shaft and covered induction coil on management unit) it may just stay open too much.
I was hesitant pulling the shaft apart, looks tricky to get it back the same...

Hey Rino Stoof, welcome to the Gadgetman forum!

Quite the cool handle ya got there. your Groove'd cars sound interesting. If you get the chance, some pic's really help us all see what's up.

I agree w/ the idea that somehow too much air is getting in at hot idle, hole in TB cut thru, or the IAC is stuck. I take it that high RPM wasn't the case before Grooving? Just use a flashlight in and outside of TB after Grooving to check for holes, pretty easy to go thru w/ bit and miss it.

Glad we have a Kiwi with us!

Again, welcome!!

Tracy G

Thanks Tracy!

I see you're one of the prolific posters here, cool.

The idle decided to play ball today! Simply dropped to about 800-900 rpm which is good enough for me.
The car was having idling issues before as the TB adjuster was gunked up solid.

One problem I got was that the oil was coming out in great quantities. To stop that I reconnected the PCV valve which I had capped before.

At 280,000km it is to be expected that the seals are shot so after talking to Ron I T-ed the in and outlet together and led them into the filter box. There are no sensors between there and the TB.

The photo shows my new line going into the filter box. The original hose ran parallel to the original disconnected one shown. If you look closely you can see the black cap next to the nut.

The smaller disconnected hose does not have a shred of vacuum on it at any revs but the motor reacts when I spray TB cleaner into it. The connection on the tappet cover is blowing quite enthusiastically, I suspect piston blow by.
To be safe I capped the inlet manifold side and T-ed it into my new line (with a bit of clear hose, not shown on pic as I did it afterwards).

The manifold shows me about 22 bar vacuum at idle so that's promising. I could not find any leaks.
The groove did cut through in a couple of places but I had already JB welded those.

A short test drive showed no further oil leaks so touch wood...

Rino you are a quick Study!

I think you Get It re; the PCV re-route. BTW, I dig the clear vac. hose as you will easily see any oil in it. Though if it's vinyl, I doubt for longevity. One idea on this is use rubber hose, w/ a short section of clear hose for inspection. Another trick is use bigger ID hoses w/ adaptors to fit existing fittings to decrease air velocity and hence oil "pull thru".

I've posted ad nauseum about Air-Oil Separators for the re-route. You can look in the Index under service bulletins, or just use the search button. Topic headers are Air Oil Separator (AOS) and "Home built breather catch can". These are useful when an engine pukes oil or water vapor out thru PCV or Breather lines.

Keep goin' Rino, way to Go dude!!

Tracy G

Thanks Tracy!

Unfortunately the engine has started leaking again, I think it's just too tired and I don't really want to do all the seals in it. That will probably only lead to more issues anyway..
So I hooked the standard hoses back up.
Real shame because I noticed a decrease in power due to the vacuum loss, bummer!
It does confirm that the groove is working though!
It's up to the owner now to fix it but I suspect she'll just keep it as it is..

Thanks again for your input!
Rino

Rino, there are a couple of things you can do to help her with those seals. The first I would recommend is to add the Auto Trans fluid to the crankcase. This will add some conditioning to them, causing them to work a little better.

As the benefits are far-reaching with this treatment, she will notice a number of positive changes in a week or so, depending on how much time it is in the engine. It won't hurt a thing. Just leave the PCV connected while the treatment has time to work.

The second thing I would recommend is to use a thicker oil.

I hope this helps out as we can all use more fans of The Gadgetman Groove!

Ron

Rino, if the Trans. fluid trick is utilized, Please do let us know of the results!

Tracy G

Hi Tracy

The Toyota has gone back to its owner but I'm going to put some in my Daewoo. I'll keep you informed

Cheers
Rino

Some pics of the idle regulator.
It's a section of a drum that rotates to let more or less air in.
The carbon had locked it solid..







I had to first clean it with carburetor cleaner and then lubricate it with crc.
It adjusts nicely now.