Yo Rino!
Maybe I can get a used Military surplus amphibious assault tractor, and tow a BIG gas tank behind it, maybe a deck w/fishing platform atop the tank, a rain catch ststem......
OK the Toyota how many miles/KM on this ride? Be aware most Oriental carb's I've seen use an Iron throttle body, are small, and have mounting screws going up into main body from TB base, and these screws' bores often impinge upon the Groove area.
Count turns in to gently seat idle mixture screw before Grooving or before adjusting. See if after Groove if it can tolerate less turns out for a stable warmed-up idle speed/quality. Some carbs very sensitive, even 1/8 turn can make difference. Use yer nose at tailpipe clean smelling moist exhaust is best. If opened up can drop float level a little talking a millimeter or two dont go too far risk a trip in the Maze! Check everyplace for vac. leaks highly likely in something 30-ish yrs old.
Xtra work to be sure--but can use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in fuel line to drop fuel pressure, obviously best to check fuel pressure to carb first. AND has this carb been rebuilt before, 'cause most ANY carb. on the road today is OLD, decades old w/ likely issues, gaskets, accell. pump wear, mounting gasket, grunge varnish crud inside. Possible throttle shaft wear w/ attendant vac. leak, spray carb. cleaner at base while running watch for RPM reaction.
To me, nearly any carb seen is likely needing a rebuild unless already recently done properly. Fuel filter, how new, and does the whole shebang look all-original? Condition of choke and any vacuum pull-off diaphragm and vac. secondary diaphragm? Easy to test diaphragm integrity for leaks, suck or push gently closed block vac. source see if it holds. DON'T hit any diaphragm from any carb w/ carb. cleaner can kill the rubber diaphragm!
BTW Weber replacement carbs can be a great solution on small 4 cyl. engines, some I've looked at look Groove-able if JB were built up on outside of Groove area, tuning parts available, all mail-order of course. Check local smog regs re;replacement carb's if applicible. All I've spoken to who went w/ Weber were happy!
Rino you likely already know all this, just sayin for whoever reads this. Carbs can be a lot of work, but if problems are present your Groove job could be blamed for no good results. Examine this one w/ a keen eye. If it looks suspect in any way ( I forgot to say casting warping does happen w/ age) warn vehicle owner upfront, decide w/ owner if rebuild is needed, and would you do it? I have made my own replacement fiber/paper base carb gaskets before w/ OK results, but any other gasket would require Saintly patience to reproduce.
Also check all vacuum hoses rarely have I seen 'em maintained. Auto Mfg's got real happy w/ vacuum gizmo's in the 80's esp 1985 model year (ask why I know) I keep a roll or 2 of new vac. hose in carb. sizes and use a fair amount of it.
fuel Injection stuff is a breeze compared to carb's IMHO.
Other side of coin- in NZ maybe whole deal is much less complex than what was foisted upon we long-suffering Yank vehicle owners, no gubmint EPA mandated fun extra stuff, or less of it anyhow..?
Sorry for this long ugly post, but those bumpy things in the meadow may not be Easter Eggs!
Also carb. vehicles are old enuf that better Ignition parts often help a LOT it will have a dizzy, check cond. of cap/rotor, plug wire resistance. tune-up's w/ top quality parts usually get a good bang for the buck w carbureted engines. More so if it actually has Points(!) in the dist.
Good luck Rino good hunting!!
Tracy G