Mike- I used to tee the PCV hose to the breather hose, after capping the PCV vacuum source. Ron has suggested for quite some time now- to just pull the PCV valve itself. Then clean it out w/ carb or brakecleen. Then fill it in w/ JB weld. Give it enough time to cure, then reinstall it. Looks stock, but no more big vacuum leak, and the system can still vent/ "breathe" thru the stock breather hose.
Of course, if yours seems different, then take some detailed pics or make a diagram, etc. and post it in here, then we can give more advice.
Founder and Constant Aide to Gadgetman
Gadgetman Reno, NV
I returned to the stock PCV/Breather routing....with a couple of slight twists...and it's working out quite well for me:
First, I basically doubled the inner diameter of the breather line. now the crankcase can get as much fresh -filtered and metered- air as it wants.
On the PCV side, I just had an orifice tube into the intake manifold from the opposite valve cover the breather attaches to. into that line, at George Wiseman's suggestion look him up, or check out his website (eagle research), I T-connected a simple water bubbler to replace more of that vacuum leak's air with water droplets. my mileage is as good as or better than it was when just capping the PCV, because while I'm still venting blowby back into the intake to burn, I'm displacing air from the charge, adding something simple that cools the engine, cleans carbon and expands when heat turns it to steam.
Note that the video suggests injecting water prior to the Throttle body; I'm using direct manifold vacuum through a needle valve. I put in a few ounces of water at every fill-up to replace what gets consumed. In freezing temperatures, you can add alcohol or peroxide to the water bubbler/resevoir to keep it liquid. (I have 99% isopropyl alcohol and 35% food grade hydrogen peroxide easily available to me). check the link below for some technical info on Hydrogen Peroxide - I'd only use it in a bubbler on a direct injection engine: in a port injected engine, you might risk starting the fuel burning before it's in the cylinder.
with the needle valve, I can adjust how much water the engine gets. I adjust it until it's bubbling at a "steady boil" at hot idle.
Yes, I have a cloud of steam coming out my tailpipe until the exhaust warms up (especially now in the autumn, and likely through the winter as well (Maybe it'll be snow coming out the exhaust in the winter)), but then the "dryer vent" exhaust seems cooler and dryer than it did before.
I have tried this numerous ways without success but I believe it was because of the amount of vapor I was feeding to the engine.
Must have made a dozen different set ups and all were scrapped due to rough running results.
The last one I tried about 6 months ago was a water pump that fed the water into the breather line thru a mist nozzle.
After finding loss of power I scrapped it figuring it was the amount of water being fed into the engine. Then I tried a smaller nozzle with a finer mist but the same results. Can only guess I used a pint every 200 miles or so seeing I never let it go that far because I unhooked it again the second time seeing the negative results.
The problem I had with the first system I hooked up years ago like yours was that I had to use the manifold vac to created air bubbles with a needle valve since straight hook up to the breather hose didn't create enough vacuum to cause bubbles. Some videos showed using a venturi style vac device inside the breather hose to create a vacuum but didn't try creating that device. Would rather have it dump into the breather hose/throttle body so atomization could take place but had no success there. The one rig that made a huge difference was the HCS which I covered in old posts. The Bruce Macburney(whatever his name was) device used the same premise of heating gas vapors.
The results the guy had in the video of 18 to 30% is super. Keep us informed if your mileage is increased on a notable scale.
kman - I've an EFIE on my upstream o2 sensor, so i can adjust between that and the needle valve on the output of my bubbler into the PCV line. I'm getting as good mileage as I do in the summer - and that's saying something because it usually drops off significantly when the weather turns colder...so if you want to flip it around, yes, I'm seeing not insignificant gains using a simple water induction system for this time of year, based on historical trends pre- water. And yes, a pint in 200 miles is quite a bit of water - i'm using 6-8oz over 500 miles. You might've been overcooling your engine with all that liquid - remember, the coolant temp sensor is a factor in the engine achieving and maintaining closed-loop fuel delivery
I regret never stopping in to talk with Bruce before he passed - he lived about 10 miles from here. I've heard his son took over the house and trashed all of his dad's stuff.