OK- this is going to be a un-abashed Shout Out to all who read this about Snake Oil...
This stuff is INCREDIBLE!!
So far, I've treated all 3 of my vehicles with 100% Pure Snake Oil for the engine oil:
#1 my '85 Subaru GL wagon, 1.8L OHC weber carb, Grooved, with Plasma Ignition, fresh oil change and Snake Oil added. Today added Snake Oil for Gear Oil Systems in the 5 spd. transaxle.
This engine was rebuilt + - 90 k miles and 14 1/2 years ago. 5 yrs ago I added a Grooved Weber carb, then the full Plasma Ignition setup. All this really woke the car up and improved driveability significantly.
The miles and wear have been slowly pulling back somewhat on driveability, and MPG was averaging in the mid 20's. But since I did an oil change and the SO, it has been improving, seemingly every time I drive it. IT runs so much smoother, lifter tick has nearly disappeared, it starts easier/faster, and power is coming back. Today, with the SO for Gear Oil Systems added to the 5 spd transaxle, it has gotten even Smoother and acceleration is improving further. It ALSO appears that MPG is going up-I did a fillup, and MPG's have moved closer to 30 MPG's.
#2 My '02 Subaru Outback has Snake Oil added to the engine oil, and that car now feels like it runs on Liquid Power. The 2.5L 4 cyl engine was Grooved previously, with Granetelli MPG+ plug wires, exhaust wrapped from engine to upstream cat, PCV re-route, and MAP sensor re-located. It already ran quite well before Snake Oil--but now, well I describe as it's like the Groove + other mods are the Steak--and Snake Oil is the STEAK SAUCE!! Dang, it just runs so well now, and I haven't done the 5 spd trans or rear diff or anything else yet! That's about to change!
#3 is my 1968 Dodge 3/4 ton Camper Special 2WD truck w/ the 383 Cu. In big block and 4 spd gearbox, with the Dana 60 rear axle. Now, this old truck mostly sits, I just use it to get firewood, etc. It has 150K + miles on it, original factory engine never torn down, just converted to a 4 bbl. Grooved carb and electronic ignition (it's a '68,OK?). For years now, if it has sat for long, and especially in cool/cold weather, I have to use starting fluid in the carb while cranking it with a remote starter button. This engine is gettin' a bit tired.
I added Snake Oil to the engine oil, which has maybe 3-400 miles on it. Besides letting it idle for 15 min. after the SO treat.,, I only drove it maybe 7-8 miles last evening to get some firewood. BUT- this time last eve., it started quickly w/ the ignition key, for a change. Like the 2 Subaru's it ran noticeably smoother and quieter last evening. I'm going to treat the gearbox and Dana axle w/ snake Oil for Gear Oil very soon, as those are no doubt big burly gear assemblies w/ a bunch of wear in 'em.
So, if you read this far, I'll say this: Snake Oil is REVOLUTIONARY!
It has not only given easily felt results, it did it INSTANTLY. I've never seen results like this before, period.
Ron really Did It this time folks. This stuff is the mythical Miracle Product.
Get some, you will be Glad you Did!!
Gadgetman Reno Nevada
Founder and Constant Aide to Gadgetman
Gadgetman Reno, NV
The following user(s) said Thank You: CLAUDIO CORDOVA
First, let me point out that I only discovered its existence the end of July this year, so I haven't had a lot of time, nor DESIRE to study beyond the point of 1) Recognizing its potential value to consumers (et al) and 2) Devising a way to render it in suspension sufficiently to see it delivered in a way that WORKS.
Still, I have looked over at least 2,000 pages of laboratory studies (maybe as many as 3,000 pages) from a variety of sources. Manufacturer data (always worthy of a challenge!) was the easiest to obtain. For the more clinical, peer-reviewed papers, that took some finagling. But I did gather a few that I was able to download, rather than look at a "Read-Online-Only" version. Many, in fact, would only allow me to read portions of the reports and denied me access, as I was not a bona-fide researcher with papers of my own with at least three citations to my credit.
They didn't take me seriously.
I will answer your questions as best I can, point by point, and will attach as many PDF's here as it will allow for further reading on its main ingredient, hexagonal Boron Nitride... I encourage one and ALL to perform their own research as I have done. I won't be here forever...
1) Adherence: It is my understanding it has a certain affinity for metals. I know this much. It dislodges all deposits on the engine, whether it is warm or cold. All that is necessary is for a solution carrying the nano-particles to come close to the metal. From that point on, I can only assume the magnetic charge of the borates take the lead, burrowing through the same, freeing it to move through the system and be caught by the filtration media.
2) As it adheres based on molecular magnetic field potential, it will bond more aggressively on some metals rather than others. I have known this to produce decreases in drag coefficient on FWD axle assemblies substantially when applied by simply pulling the boots back and smearing the grease on the bearing assemblies. In time, due to normal activity, it works its way into the joints and bonds to them. Result? 4-6 MPG increase in this instance. So Hot-vs-cold? I have not found in ANY documentation that temperatures either below -100 F to over +3,000 F has any effect on its lubricity properties, only on the medium used to deliver it to its destination.
3) See #2.
4) I have seen no indication of its bonding to other than metals. It is a metalloid, in fact. (Look it up.) I know for a FACT it has no effect on clutch discs as used in automatic transmissions. (I have it in all three of our vehicles. 2011 Taurus Limited, 2006 Kia Sedona and a 1999 Dakota.
5) I have found no limitation on the metals.
What I have found is that for other firms offering their versions of "Friction-Proofers" and/or "Restoratives (or "Revitalizants" per XADO patents) either use subordinate compounds to the borate esters, or use borate esters of lower quality/effect (cheaper than hBN) and when I found the recommendations by laboratory reports on the concentration that (in every case I could validate) were using concentrations of less than the recommended optimum.
With hBN, the recommended concentrations are between 8,000 and 10,000 PPM. My solutions are calculated to deliver hBN in solution of at LEAST 16,000PPM. That's why it is demonstrating more immediate results than any report on other products I have seen, and serves to restore parts with severe to extreme wear. As it will restore between 0.063" wear to (according to some reports) as much as 0.100" (per surface!) and is self-limiting in its behavior, it has shown to me to be something like a REAL "Snake Oil!"
Of course, the attached PDF's will tell the technical side that motivated me to find a way to deliver this "Miracle Cure" but what really matters will be evidenced by the reports people are filing here and on my Hotline at 406-686-3291 (If you call to make a report, please try to keep it around a minute.)
Only ONE of these reports of success outweigh THOUSANDS of pages of laboratory studies, and is the only way to answer the most important question of all...
"Does it WORK???"
(Sorry. Attachments don't insert correctly in PDF form. But there's PLENTY here-over 9,000 kb of data - and I have studied them all. I hope you follow my lead.)
Developer of The Gadgetman Groove
Smile for a stranger today.
You will both be glad you did.
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The following user(s) said Thank You: Tracy Gallaway, CLAUDIO CORDOVA, Judge
I think it's Ionic bonding happening, If I remember my high school chemistry, but I may be (and probably am) mistaken; it may also be covalent bonding. Maybe those are the same things for inorganic chemistry. that's semantics beyond what we need to know - the molecule of Boron Nitride either has something to give to the metal surface or is looking for something the metal surface has on offer to bond with. because of the difference in density of the metal molecules and the Boron Nitride molecules, the hBN molecules want to jam as many of themselves as close and as hard against the metal as they possibly can, and because of the structure of the hBN, the surface that's formed resembles other crystalline forms like diamond and quartz. so as Ron has pointed out, a higher concentration will allow that strong lattice structure to form much more quickly and effectively. The real question remains: is there a concentration that's too strong? who knows, but in allowing the coating to build itself naturally as the vehicle runs and the surfaces and lubricant between them interact, that hBN will connect where it's needed most FIRST, and then continue to look for other opportunities to bond with metal until it has depleted itself from the lubricant.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Tracy Gallaway, CLAUDIO CORDOVA
Testing is ongoing for my vehicles, once I stop chasing problems I will give an actual update as currently i'm chasing a white rabbit. Tbi was running way rich after changing the engine and over 140 chip custom tuning, switched to carb and chasing electrical and accelerator pump issues. I'll update as soon as everything is running again.
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The following user(s) said Thank You: CLAUDIO CORDOVA