The following will be just as the title describes, my experiences with hho and what I have done to improve the process based on what I have learned based on experience and information provided free from the interwebs.
As this knowledge is general in description please feel free to contact me or reply if you have questions regarding anything that I post. I have no intention of using this information for profit, only as a tool to help others. I hope that you use what you learn about this technology in the same manner.
Electrolysis is pretty simple method of splitting water, our goal here is to make it as efficient as possible. Heat is our enemy when building a reactor for an ICE (internal combustion engine), so we want to look at ways to reduce the heat involved. My experiences below will describe most of the units I have built and they are typically called 'dry cells'.
In a bipolar (one positive/negative plate with neutrals) reactor we want to split the voltage we are giving to our reactor from our battery down to a level that will create more hho vapor than heat. I have found that 5 neutrals works the best for vehicle applications and will cut the voltage between the plates down to 2.1 to 2.3 volts per gap. More voltage per gap just creates heat that is wasted in the process and you have to use a device to control the amps as heat increases the amps used. We can keep from having to do this by simply starting with the correct voltage between the plates and preparing the plates correctly.
Typically I have used the following materials for building my reactors.
-Marine board for endplates (typically 3/4")
-EPDM Rubber pond liner for gasket material.
-316L Stainless Steel Plate material at 18-20 ga.
-Stainless fasteners
-3/8" braided clear hose
-8 Ga high thread count electrical wire
-Battery isolator for a relay switch (audio stores carry quality units)
-In-Line fuse link, 40-60 amps (the idea here for me is to stop a surge)
-On-Off switch just in case you need to run the car without the unit on
-Add-a-fuse so that the unit is only 'on' when the engine is running.
-Misc. connections, Typically I make my connections from copper plumbing pipe just so that I don't lose any voltage between the battery and the reactor.
Plate design
There are lots of different thoughts on this but I have personally found that if you do a simple calculation it works nearly every time. But I will admit after adding the groove to my vehicle I need a lot less hho.
(engine size in liters/4 = liters per minute of hho) for a 3.0 liter engine you would need .75 liters per minute. Some have said you need up to 1.5 liters a minute in this situation but I have found that with a magnetic filter you don't need that much to get gains. Okay so we know that we need .75 liters per minute, well if we use a standard of 15 amps per liter a minute than we can see that we need 11.25 amps. A good rule of thumb is to have a plate sized so that you are using half an amp per square inch of surface area. So that means we need a plate size of 22.5 sq. inches. 5" x 4.5" = 22.5 sq. inches of surface area needed. Well we can't forget about our gasket area of half an inch all the way around so we simply add an inch to these calculations. Final result of plate sizing is 5.5" x 6".
Plates that I am currently running, you can see the blasted surface and weld-on around the entry and exit ports.
Dual stack reactor setup.
Plate preparation
This will generally take as long as a full installation of the system but is worth the effort I believe in the sake of efficiency.
-Media blasting the plates (40-80 grit) creates more surface area and lowers the heat produced. I typically go with a texture of a nail file.
-Weld-On 16 or 1802 around your entry and exit holes (slots on top and single water entry staggered at the bottom of the plate). This will electrically separate the plates where the electrical current will try to flow through first. We want to spread out the current over the entire surface.
-Passivate the plates. There are different theories on this, I have always used 10% citric acid to a gallon of water at room temperature for 2-3 hours. You can also run 2-3 amps to the plates and electrically passivate if you wish.
-Clean everything before you build your reactor. Rinse with distilled water, acetone, distilled water. The NaOH and KOH we use in the reactors normally makes soap when oil is present, it will make soap in your reactor if you have oily fingerprints on your plates. Trust me on this one.
Main Reservoir needs to be mounted somewhere in the vehicle so that it is higher than your reactor. US plastics sells some great multipurpose tanks that are great for this.
Secondary reservoir needs to be mounted just below your reactor, the inside of the bumper is a great place for these if you have room. Typically we are looking at a 3-4" diameter pipe as wide as possible so that the main reservoir feeds into the bottom of this reservoir and our reactor is fed by this pipe. When I added this to my reactors the water temp. dropped 15 degrees.
Bubbler filter (because we don't want to see any of this hho vapor at all), needs to be mounted after the unit and needs to be mounted vertically. When you see the vapor coming out of your tube that is actually electrolyte you are seeing, not something you want to put into your engine. Typically water is used in a filter like this but I have found that you can use pillow stuffing or peat moss to do the same thing. If you use a 2" clear pvc pipe, make it as long as possible but at least 12-15 inches of material if you can find a place for it. I make mine with 3 sections, the lower area where the vapor enters from the side and has a valve at the bottom so you can drain the moisture that will accumulate. I separate my sections with window screen stretched tight between the sections so that the material doesn't fall down into the lower section. The middle section has your packed material, as tight as you can pack it without restricting flow as we don't want too much pressure building up. The top section has more window screen to hold the material in place, a port out the side and a flash back arrestor screwed into the top. If there is some interest in this I have no problem taking my unit apart and providing pictures.
Magnetic filter
based my design off of this patent, but i used 3/4" pvc pipe and 2"x1/2"x1/2" rectangular magnets. I'll post some pictures of the build if anyone is interested in trying it out. It doesn't create more hho vapor, but re-alines the atoms so the hydrogen is spinning in the same direction. A simple test is to light the vapor coming out of some water before and after the filter, but please do not try this without thinking first. Do Not Use a glass jar for this test, i'll go as far as asking that you don't try the test at all. I used magnets with 92 lbs of force each and squeezed 6 of them into a 12" pvc pipe.
(Edit) This needs to be mounted very close to your injection point just prior to the throttle body, a flash-back arrestor is a good idea here as well.
Here are the pieces I used, please note that the magnets are not aligned correctly as they need to oppose each other.
While inserting the magnets I had to keep them 8 inches away from each other on the workbench in order for them to not attract each other.
Completed filter
This was a little longer post than I anticipated, i'll grab some pictures from my laptop and post them as soon as I can tonight.
Questions and comments are all welcomed, i'm sure I left something out.
Ken