TOPIC: Ozone Generators and Internal Combustion Engines

For those of you who are interested, I have seen these homemade generators work on diesels very well but might work very well with the 'groove' technology.

You have to ensure that the air you are using is completely dry as you only want to create ozone. I need to invest in another one for my Silverado, I really should stop salvaging parts from my daily driver for other experiments.

thoughts? Comments?

Ken


I'm not promoting this product, but it is simply something similar to what has been used before.

hi, yes interesting i cant remember what i read or saw about ozone in the cumbustion chamber. but i bought a ionizer from condrad small enoughf to fit in the air filter and strong enoughf that you can smell the ozone, and add a nebulizer for some good old water vapor, but it is currently bening used in the house hehe,

Hi Ken a website called sells a few different 12V powered Ozone generators.

Never tried using one. However, for those w/ an older vehicle w/ a distributor there is a trick to get "free" ozone. The Ozone Cap...(Thanks again, Mike Hollar!)

The gap between rotor and cylinder contacts in dist. cap is effectively a "spark gap". Sparks junping this gap ionize the air, creating small amount of Ozone. This ionization/ozone erodes at the contacts and rotor tip.

Use a vented dist cap, create a vent hole w/ filter or air can enter thru dist. body. We want to vent the ozone/ionized air out from cap and direct it into the engine.

Ozone is 3 oxygen atoms bonded, highly reactive, REALLY wants to get rid of extra O atom and "oxidize something. Won't get a lot of ozone this way- I think of it as extending life of cap/rotor and putting the Ozone to work attacking gasoline molecules in engine during intake stroke.

I use small dia. plastic emmissions tubing, found on Ford and other cars in boneyard. Drill hole to match tubing diameter in cap opposite from vent. Put tubing into hole just flush w/ inside cap to avoid the rotor, and epoxy in place.

I connect this plastic tubing from cap to appropriate vacuum fitting on carb. I also use small aquarium valve to slightly restrict airflow thru tube, spliced into the rubber vacuum hose.

OEM factory carbs mid 70's till OEM's quit w/ carbs, often have a Venturi Vacuum hose connection. 3 kinds of vacuum-manifold, ported, venturi. Manifold vacuum is constant and things like choke pull-off's and PCV hose nipples connect to/use manifold vac.

Ported vacuum is any hose nipple on carb leading to a hole inside carb that will "see" manifold vac., when throttle blade rotates past that hole. Throttle closed at idle-hole is just above throttle blade. As throttle is opened, the hole is exposed to manifold vacuum. Often used for dist. vacuum advance, and Holley carb. instructions call the port for vac. advance the Spark Port.

Venturi vacuum nipples are placed at venturi narrow point in carb. main body casting. In cutaway, this point looks like the narrow center of an hourglass, or the waist of a shapely lady! The pressure drop at center point of a venturi increases/decreases in direct relation to airflow thru the carb. BUT- it's not a vacuum leak, cause it's always above the throttle blades.

So this is useful for this app. cause airflow increases thru carb w/ RPM . At same time the amount (it's tiny but still useful,) of Ozone generated in the dist. cap increases per second as RPM increases.

If you have either a carb without Venturi vac. nipple or most fuel injection TB's, then I think I would connect the small hose from dist. cap to a ported vac. nipple. Don't think there are that many engines around w/ a dist and F.I.






My dist. cap-vent visible at top, the thin plastic tube left side into vac. hose, hose onto same thin plastic tube epoxied into hole in cap. Cant see tube into cap, sorry.



aquarium tube valve in hose between dist. cap and carb venturi vac. nipple



view of different carb, stick points to venturi vac. nipple in rear of carb main body



view into carb throat stick points at entry hole at center of venturi restriction in casting--cant see the hole it's right under the stick tip



bottom view throttles open past ported vac. holes these are above throttle blades at idle.

If only vacuum connection available is full-time manifold vacuum, then restricting the hose w/ aquarium valve partway closed is Mandatory. Don't want too much vac. applied to dist. cap, could suck oil up past dist. seal and bushings/bearings. And we all know we don't want any avoidable vacuum leaks.

Thanks for reading if you made it this far!

Tracy G