TOPIC: List of Ford Trouble-Shooting topics from a Ford forum

Karl, Tracy -
when I first reached out to a Gadgetman about getting my truck done, I was in contact with Aaron Knorr here in Canada.
If memory serves, he explained he has a grooved 4 cylinder version of the Ranger/b-series, and emphatically encouraged me to put a condensator/AOS/catch can on mine. I don't think he's active here on the forum, but an email to him was answered with a return phone call in literally minutes. Really, Really nice guy, from our chat. I encourage you to reach out to him, Karl. He'll have more engine-specific insight than I into your groove and your issues.

Greg, would you invite him to come back to the forum? It would be great to hear from him again!

Tracy G

It might be better if Karl reached out to Aaron himself, as they know the specifics of their respective vehicles:
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Ok guys, I'm posting in this thread re: Karl's and Greg's Mazda (Ford) Ranger clone engine fuel systems. I went looking after seeing what Greg had to say, he having done his own search in Ford related forums. This link is another Explorer/Ranger topic forum, several guys talking about their fuel press. and diagnostic experiences. IT's a few pages long, there might be help in this:



Hope this helps! BTW, I noticed a small detail in one of the posts in this- guys spoke of pulling/reinstalling the Crank Position Sensor plug to clean the terminals. Having the truck in the damp Eastern Seaboard area, I'd think it might be good to do this to as many wire plug connections as possible.

Tracy G

I liked the last post of that thread the best, about the submersible fuel line hoses on the pump assembly. Wish I had gotten that far in the thread the first time I read it, before replacing the unit, because I've been using that to replace vacuum lines and have a couple extra feet kicking around.
The thing I will advise Karl to do if he needs a pump replacement is to pull the bed rather than dropping the tank. the bolts that hold the straps that secure the tank to the frame are a bit of a hassle to get at, and the shield is a mess. Better way is to remove the 6 T-55 Torx bolts holding the bed to the frame after blasting with penetrating lube, disconnect the hoses between the filler neck (also replace filler neck if it's rusty!) and tank, disconnect the harnesses from the taillights, take the tailgate off and then you have total access to the top of the tank and all fuel and electrical connections. I even replaced the Torx bolts with class 8 stainless and went with normal hex heads. you'll need 4 - 1.75x12x100mm and 2 - 1.75x12x120mm I got mine for $6 from a local specialty hardware store because the dealership wanted $60 for the panhead pain in the butt torx.