TOPIC: Plasma Jet Ignition video from Aaron Murakami

Aaron Murakami put up this video of his install of his Plasma Ignition mod, on an old Datsun pickup. Aaron explains the theory of operation, and shows both the install AND a visual demo of the results. This video does a great job of explaining not just the how and why , but the what of the parts, and how it goes together.

Aaron also goes into explaining the practical benefits of this ignition mod. It's easy to see and understand the nuts and bots of his method in this uncluttered engine bay. This freshly rebuilt Datsun motor sounds great for what it is. For Ignition Junkies, or anyone wanting very sound advice about Ignitions, this is great info. He's using the same Granatelli plug cables and MSD Street Fire CDI as I am on the Subie. I note that Aaron ultimately used smaller diode blocks than the big 'ol Ham Radio ones I used. He does show the big ones like mine in the demo section. Those are the same ones that scared two repair shops away from 'lil Subie!

IF you pay attention, you will note that Aaron opens up the plug gaps here. Remember that Ron has told us the same basic idea for spark plugs, just minus the whoop-ass system shown and described here.

If you want the most robust spark possible, without huge costs, here you go, at least for distributor based electronic ignition!



Tracy G

Thanks Tracy, great info.
Been searching for non resistor cables for the truck for a few weeks but both Granatelli and MSD do not make wires for 2.5L ford rangers. Neither do they sell their cables so you can make your own.
Had to settle on Thundervolts at 40OHMs/ft. supposedly.
Will do a check on this compared to what stock wires I have on now when I receive them.
Hope I get a positive result on this seeing sometimes going outside OEM factory set stuff has had negative consequences for some. Could faster spark mess with timing?
As far as the plugs, seems like the non resistor plugs are hard to find so it seems modding the standard resistor plugs to non resistor was the only alternative. Wondering if one can cut the strap on the plug instead of widening the gap for better spark. Whats the science here?
Here is a video for those who would desire to remove the resitance on their standard resistor plugs.

Hi Karl. You might ask a parts guy if they can order the non resistor plugs for the Ford. Or online, someone's got to have 'em. As long as the wires on the ranger are a standard type. Meaning, that the plug boots are shaped close enough to most of what the cut to fit sets use. Summit racing has lots of brands available online. But 400 ohms a foot isn't impressive to me at all. Acceptable for regular parts store ready made ones, but I'd look around more.

What Aaron did in the video, was called side-gapping the plugs. You cut the side electrode back to expose center electrode to combustion chamber better. Just don't over do it, you can always open the gap or cut more off. Didn't you get a set of Torquemaster plugs?

IF your existing wires have high resistance like those on Aaron's Datsun, then swapping to low resistance ones makes sense. That is another point in the video, he is showing the stuff about ignition parts I always talk about. I'm glad he mentioned the Flamethrower III coil, I'll remember that!

Tracy G

Hi guys!

You've got the right idea. Reducing resistance in the ignition system is a good thing to do. While the PERFECT situation is zer resistance, that's a pie in the sky figure.

But when have we ever let the facts get in the way of our research? After all, it was my failure to accept the existing paradigms for combustion that led to The Gadgetman Groove.

Further, once seeing what a little 5/16" adjustment could do, I followed that with some other discoveries. These will be made available in due course.

So, keep on Gadgeting!!!

Ron

Tracy,

Would never get the wires if they were 400ohms, that is probably what I have now if not more.
Its 40ohms silly boy.
Stock wires would not be made for proficiency as we see in the coils and plugs they force on us.
These things should be factory if our vehicles were made right but those who know, know the elite devils would never do that. Cant have us getting 100+ mpg that others have done and unfortunately felt the wrath of these monsters.

Taylor makes another wire they brag on being 350ohms/ft as if that is good?
Dont know how Aaron got the Granatelli for his old datsun when they dont make them for the popular Ford Ranger, at least not the 2.5L.
Could have ordered the 96 Mustang plugs and changed the boots but then the price goes way up and the hassle of the re-rig and possible errors in the process.
As far as the Torquemasters, seems like most plugs today have resistors so guessing they also took the same route.
I know he cut off the electrode to make the gap but does side gapping have an advantage over widening? It still has to jump either up or to the side the same distance.
Since he has chosen the side gap cut it seems there may be some reason for it.

I LOOOOVED that video - it made Plasma make sense to me.
I've bought Aaron's Ignition Secrets package with the waste spark add-on (happy to see he's thought that problem through and arrived at a solution) in case I should decide to go down that road, seeing as I bought the suggested wires already. I have yet to delve into understanding the electronic principles, but given the advancements in electronics design/construction in the past few years, I wouldn't be surprised if the smaller diodes Aaron uses in his video meet or exceed the specs of the big ol' Ham Radio ones that were originally used/sugested. I'm just not sure my stock injectors can be "leaned out" enough by the ECU, akin to re-jetting a carb for optimum efficiency, or if I can find replacements that can be.

Tracy - so you are still running a Plasma ignition on the Subie?

Karl - Call Granatelli, they're fantastic with their knowledge and fitment suggestions. While they don't specifically make a wire set for my Rendezvous, they build in enough wiggle room (length) on the cables to basically make sure they fit any GM 3.5litre engine from the general range of the model year. Parts bins/supply chains being what they are at assembly plants, there has to be some standardization, but I'll bet Granatelli folk can look up stock wire lengths and suggest a set of theirs that will work on yours. (jeepers, a Plasma set up on your ride with 2 Plugs/cylinder...if you had it set so they BOTH fired on the power stroke, fuel wouldn't stand a chance!). Another thing about ordering Direct from Granatelli - there's no middleman markup, so you may be able to buy your set of 8 wires shipped for the price of a 6 wire set from Summit.

Greg,
Already received the Thundervolts as of yesterday.
Talked to so many I really dont remember if it was Granatelli or not that told me that the 96 mustang was the closest match and how to re-rig the boots to make it fit my cap.
Intense research found that the Thundervolts are only 40ohms more than the Granatelli and that would be so much of an improvement from what I have now even though I have not tested the old ones yet. On the Ranger forum I read someone saying their stocks were over 500ohms(ft or total?) so going down to just 40 was a vast improvement. But then again I have not read on any Ranger forum that those who tried them have had very noticeable difference.
I guess if one can get better current flowing, it can translate to better ability to throw a larger spark if gaps are widened(with non resistors). But then would that translate to more power if the gas isnt vaporizing any different?
As far as the power stroke. I believe the plugs cant be fired at the same time since the coil dictates when to throw the spark. For the Ranger I believe that one plug fires on the top and the other on the bottom of the stroke for the residual vapors as the coil is programmed.
Correct me if my thinking/understanding is skewed on this.
I did a coil mod where I switched the wires as found on the Ranger forum to switch which plug fired on the top but saw no difference as others also didnt see a difference.
Getting both to fire on the top may see an improvment if possible to do with the coil.

Hi Greg, yes I still have the Plasma setup on Subie. It's so reliable that if I ever have any misfire at idle, I look to fuel or vacuum related stuff. I never get any misfire ever under a load!

Karl- No a faster spark won't hurt timing. I second Greg on the Granetellis, but if you got a set that has 40 ohms/foot, or even 40 ohms total, that's really good! I'd check 'em all out with a good DVOM, with alligator clip leads. I'm sure Granetelli would have made a set to fit yours. For the Torquemasters, I ordered 'em as non-resistor. You could use most any non-resistor plug w/ Plasma. They just won't last real long, is my understanding, so I used the stainless Torquemasters. And, of course the Torquemasters have their own inherent benefits too with their design.

But if you can find non-resistor stock type plugs for the Ranger, you could try cutting the side electrode back some, to better expose the spark to the combustion chamber, and play with gap settings. The reason for cutting the side electrode is to un-shroud the spark gap. This allows the (relatively) slowly expanding flame kernel to "see" the chamber better, with less metal electrode structure blocking it. That side electrode looks small to us, but to the flame kernel, it's like a wall! OR get another set of Torquemasters, in non-resistor...$$$. You could call Torquemaster ans ask Danny about it. He might recommend their other design plug, I dunno. When you have a DVOM ready, could pull one of your T-Master plugs, and check the Ohms resistance, they certainly ought not to be very worn yet.

I'd also call out, that always remember Ron's advice on regapping plugs. As long as the wires, coil, etc. are OK, then that gap trick is the biggest bang for the buck in Ignition tricks!! As in-Free!!

For attaching the individual wires from each diode block to each plug wire, I did some fancy work at the spark plug ends. I went to Summit Racing and bought replacement straight MSD plug boots with new brass plug terminals. I replaced the Granetelli plug boots/terminals with the MSD's, and ran the diode wire thru the plug boot along side the Granetelli wire. I crimped the diode wire bare end in the terminal along with the Granetelli stainless conductor wire. I have a fancy MSD plug wire crimper/stripper tool from my custom tuneup days. The special hi voltage wire I used for the diode blocks is quite thin, like 18 gauge I think.

The setup has held up well for 3 1/2 years now, with no parts replaced since conversion. I think Aaron's conversion to that fresh rebuilt Datsun motor is a pretty ideal situation for the Plasma conversion. Nice fresh engine, and a Weber carb that is so tuneable. And, the truck is so old that one could mod it like mad and probably not get hassled by the Smog Establishment.

I hope Aaron Murakami puts out more videos on this Datsun, as he does more. If he adds Hho, or water injection, and leans out the carb, I'd like to see the results. Watching this video, I kept nodding my head, as he explained several things about Ignition I've known of for yeqrs. I've always advocated better quality plug wires, etc. My thinking here is- strengthen and dial-in the Ignition system first, then go on to other stuff. If you are confident of a really strong consistent spark, then you can basically stop thinking about it, and concentrate on all else. But w/ the Plasma, you get more than just a strong spark, as the video explains.

Tracy G

has non-resistor Iridium/Rhodium plugs for $11/ea, the same price as Torquemasters, IIRC.
The Iridium/Rhodium rare-earth alloy tip is harder than platinum and I would bet stand up to plasma for 100k+ miles

They have a Canadian area code listed on their website, but say their shop/office is in Northern Michigan...that $11/plug may be in Canadian dollars; if I'm correct in that assumption, that would make them $7-8 yankee greenbacks each...
...I guess for costing purposes, you'd have to see which actually lasted longer for true cost effectiveness, but I would guess material hardness plays into this. (I'll talk to my Dad - he's a Chem Eng who worked in the Steel Industry his entire career)

yeah, a fast plasma spark would be like hitting the timing bullseye with every throw of a dart, hitting the exact sweet spot for power and efficiency...a home run from every pitch.

Karl, it seems to me from Aaron's research that you've got the ideal set-up to begin with for a plasma ignition: 2 waste spark ignition coils...you'd just have to check on their polarity and make the necessary additions of a CDI unit and the diodes, and blammo! (even those 40 ohm wires will probably work...and if that video is how to modify resistor plugs to be resistorless...) You have what might be an ideal project vehicle on your hands! and given you live on the ocean, there's plenty of humidity around naturally to enhance a plasma spark...year round!

Greg,
Most of what Aaron explains is for more technically based individuals.
Diodes? What is it and where is that on his set up?
As far as the CDI unit, I guess its that cylindrical piece that connects to
his distributor.
This needs to be explained in detail if one is to replicate for the average mechanic.
His presentation was not for the general audience but for the experienced technician dealing
with the electrical components on an engine.
I'm not giving my upgrade in wires any hope in performance seeing the past experiences on this truck but I know it cant hurt......hopefully.

KArl, the Diodes Aaron used were for the final install- the black plasic things about a couple inches long that he had all grouped together. They were the gizmo's with the extra wires going to each spark plug boot. The cylinder connected to the dist, is the ignition coil. And, I took note that Aaron used these smaller diodes, much more practical than the big Mongo diode Ham radio diode blocks I used. He speaks about this in the video, I consider the smaller ones a further breakthrough--easier to install!

don't feel too far out in the cold here, I had to repeatedly pore over the download info Aaron sells to do this, plus study lots of other related material online. Then I had to figure out the nuts/bolts of just which parts arranged in what way. I'm no electronics or really electrical guy myself.

A diode, (I'll try to explain here) is like an electrical one-way valve or switch, it lets current go thru in one direction only. Diodes are a very common electronics part. And normally they are viewed as being instantaneous in their switching action... for this application, the Diodes need to be rated to certain specs, mainly to certain hi voltages.

But, and it's the big But, Aaron Murakami figured out something uber slick with all this. Turns out, there is an ultra-short time duration during which the diode lets current through. Before the "gate slams shut".
So, without trying to accurately define the whole deal, it's that quality of diodes, that Aaron exploits here. This effectively short-cuts the process and system build. This patented method, saves a lot of $$, and needed parts, like extra power supplies, etc. IT also means less stuff to try to find a home for under a hood. When I was researching this back in 2013, I found a number of Youtube videos from guys doing shop bench tests and experiments. Most were Electronics and car Geeks, able to do all kinds of electronics trickery, but very few were showing a complete install on a car. There's probably more videos today of actual installs.

Believe me, for ultimate Ignition in a car, Aaron does great service w/ this video! He shows that with a little knowledge, this is doable, IMHO. Near the end, listen closely to what he says he thinks can be done by using this setup..... woah...! Even just upgrading all the normal stuff, the plug wires, plugs, cap/rotor, and coil, can go a long ways. Adding a cheap CDI like the MSD Streetfire kicks it up another notch. IMHO, once that's all in place- then adding the Diodes and extra wires, is like inserting the nuclear Pit material into what would be otherwise be just another bomb!!

Note to the Gubmint and other Snoopers out there- no, we aren't messing w/ any nukes here! Just a turn of phrase, is all!


Tracy G

You're quite right, Karl, you do need a bit of knowledge of electronics to implement a Plasma Ignition on an Internal Combustion Engine, but Aaron's got all you need over at his website for some self-learning if you're so inclined...what's cool with the knowledge they're spreading over there is that it has so many applications beyond what can be initially seen, so you're not learning to be a one-trick pony.

The cylindrical piece Aaron attaches is a High Voltage Ignition coil, that steps the 12VDC up to >5kV to send to the spark plugs. The CDI unit is the red/black one with all the wires coming to/from it.

I'm sorry you're so pessimistic about how making little changes to your truck probably won't get you the gains you're hoping for...but what if they do materialize?