kman wrote: Guys
The problem that I found is that the light hydrocarbon vapors are easily vaporized but because of the shellac that the powers that be have mixed with the gas because of people like Tom Ogle figuring out how to run engines on vapors, this junk does not allow a large amount of gas vapors to vaporize to run an engine on. Found that I could only run my mower till about half of the gas vaporized then the vapors were so thin due to the shellac preventing vaporizing that it would stall leaving me with an orange gas mix that was basically useless. I figured that it was a bust seeing I would get more hours running the regular way burning all the gas than just using whatever vapors I could produce so I went back to normal use of the gas tank. IMO that is why the shellac was given us, to prevent proper vaporization.
I also sometimes have an issue with the mower running rough/fluctuating RPM's due to some problem with fuel feed whether a blockage or whatever and I overcame this by drilling a hole in the air filter case and dripping a small pippet full of gas into the case thus soaking the air filter and the resulting vapors produced would solve the problem. Running it on the vapors produced thru the air intake thru the air filter would run the mower till the blockage/problem would resolve itself.
This is also a much better/easier way to start a problem mower than spraying ether into the carb as many do.
Maybe if a drip feed of gas to vaporize on a wicking system was developed, this could possibly enhance the vaporization process.
I just never went any further with this seeing the small amount of gas I use each year mowing that the vapor system was not feasible and that the concept could not be used on another application such as a vehicle with an ECU.
Shellac, or ethanol? (maybe some of each...) I think it was naphthalene (in moth balls) that someone added to their tanks to offset the shellac back in the day...today a tiny bit of water takes care of precipitating ethanol out.
And I wonder if heating the vapours from the EVAP system prior to entry into the manifold might help. people talk about pre-heating gasoline to get it to vaporize more/better at the injectors, but what about warming up the stuff that's already vapour? I suppose it might cause enough back pressure for the sensor in the tank to trigger the purge valve to open, along with the vent valve that lets fresh air in...hmmm...if I'm right with that part, would it cause an engine code, or would the computer trim back injector pulse durations based on the o2 sensor? further, if the throttle position is too closed, the EGR opens, permitting hot moist exhaust (with unburned hydrocarbons) into the intake manifold as well...
I think I need to learn up some more on the EVAP system...
