TOPIC: Mazda 2500 truck

Hi! TacomaKarl and TracyG; you are corect Karl thhe TB is caled throttle and the idle Air is atached to it,I have checked for vacuum leaks but evryting looks god
this are my readings on it so far,I filled up the tank with 14 gallons it went 292
= 20.8 of miles then filled up agien then I fixed the Idle Air passway it look to me that it was afecting on the groove perfermance,
i had 202 on it filled up agien with 9 gallons = 22.5 it looked the I had a inprufment. so thats with the first way of groove straight down of the TB plate

i thing it can be better so I patch the groove and tryed to do the 22 degrees but now I have Idle code, will check on that, I need to know if I ren ok on the pcv valve and the breather? Here are some pics, Thanks guys for the good help

Hi Carlos, the PCV re-route looks Ok--you tee'd PCV hose into Breather hose OK. I assume you capped/closed off the manifold vacuum port this hose went onto then tee'd into Breather hose. If you want post more pics of the TB showing complete view of mounting surface and the manifold flange the Tb mounts onto, and more general views of TB. If the big square opening at TB base is the Idle Air port, it should help to reduce/relocate that air, as it is hitting the air/wave form that's coming out of the Groove, reducing the Groove's effect. You say you fixed the Idle Air path? I have an idea of how to re-route the Idle Air control air if you're interested. Did you reduce the airflow from the IAC Valve AT the IAC Valve already?

Congratulations on your work and success so far, you are doing OK!

TracyG Gadgetman Reno

Hi! Guys! I have an update on my truck,
After alot of research I got it to run alot better
This is what I did I check all hoses for vacuum leacks all good now I changed the EGR solenoid sen. And the break buster no bueno they where not holding prechure, oh! And after regrooving over and over the TB and resetting the computer this is what I got out of it, befor it was 19 City 21 Combined 24 Highway now with the groove 24 combinend and 29 Highway I know this is good but u guys have a better success on your mods if I missed something please let me know I would like to get ready to my next step as a license holder! Thanks CarlosGarcia;

Hi Carlos,

Nice job on the troubleshooting.

All mileage gains are a good thing, going from 24 to 29... not bad at all.

One thing you can do is verify that the depth of the groove is equal in all areas.

You can do that by placing the bit in the groove and making sure the bit shank rests on the edge of the groove. If there is a gap between the bit shank and the groove that would indicate a shallow spot that could be touched up.

You don't want to over do the touch-ups, you could end up with a sloppy pocket that might be less efficient.

Other than that, you'll basically find that every vehicle engine is different in how it responds to the groove, some good, some not as good as you would think and others that are stellar.

Give the engine some time to let the ECU get settled in on the changes, you may find that your mpg numbers will increase as it continues to average out.

Karl Fortner
Tacoma, Washington

Hi! Karl I have ? On the O2's on my truck I have the scan gauge on to check if they are working apropiate but the only reading that I have is closed loop, I know that that means they are working but correct?

Hi Carlos, you're doing great!
I recommend everything Karl said. On the O2's your scan tool only says open/closed loop? no O2 voltages? Well on my 85Subaru I just replaced the O2 sensor 'cause it had over 50K miles. Made a real difference in how she runs. Can't put scantool on my Subie of course.

Have you done anything about the Idle Air Control valve to restrict air through it? Check in the Ford section of the Site. Basically you remove IAC, then cut a gasket from thin flashing or sheet metal to cover the openings, then put a 1/8" hole in the side that feeds air to the intake, thus restricting it, thus helping increase manifold vacuum.

And your 8 spark plugs, try opening the plug gap by 20%

Don't forget simple stuff like tire pressure and general maintenance.

Glad you're back, Carlos, keep at it!!

TracyG Gadgetman Reno

Hi! Tracy; I was always here reading and waching, But I was working on getting resolts, I remove tha IAC and made that gasket with flashing and drilled a 1/8 to it but I have not done any thing to the spark plugs, so if my gap is .40 I have to open them at .47 that's 20% more, correct? But explain me more about the gap what function is going to give me? And thank Tracy, Karl for all the good pointers!

No Problemo, Carlos!

My understanding of increasing the plug gap--wider gap forces the coil to deliver a "hotter" spark. The wider gap requires more energy to ionize, so the coil will take more time building a charge big enough to jump that gap. That's in layman terms, I'm not the true scientific expert here...

The bigger gap makes current from the coil "stack up" on the center electrode of the plug longer. So there is more punch when arc-over (spark) happens.

If it has been awhile since you changed plugs, you will at least inspect 'em when you pull 'em to re-gap. Replace if worn or fouled. Get the side electrode square to the center electrode and centered over it. If stock gap is 0.040" make new gap 0.048". I always put a little Anti-seize on new or used plug threads, and ONLY pull plugs when engine is Cold esp. w/ aluminum heads!!

I don't know your vehicle, if it has a distributor cap, rotor and plug wires, INSPECT 'em! If it's a coil-on plug setup no need, if coil pack w/ plug wires, INSPECT the wires. I personally don't like any plug wire over 2000 Ohms resistance...

I always bray about Ignition stuff, it's so little understood even by mechanics! You wanna light that campfire on this cold night with a dinky match or a road flare??

Keep goin', Carlos!

TracyG Gadgetman Reno