Here are pics of my first groove. This is a practice run on a TB from a Plymouth Neon 2.0, maybe a '97, I found in a salvage yard.
First I cleaned the thing with Berryman's Carbeurator Choke & TB Cleaner, as it was really caked on the fuel injection side.
I worked out the angles following Luke Wickenhauser's instructions relating to the scribing tool he designed. The throttle plate was only 9 degrees off of perpendicular. After drawing out the angles as Luke described, my distance for the groove was a surprising 3/32", the same as Luke's whose throttle plate was 12 degrees. Seems like the 3 degree difference would have resulted in a wider gap for me (more that 3/32"). I chaulk it up to differences in our methods of measuring the angles.
See photo below for my scribing tool. I used masonite. My logic was telling me that I didn't need to fashion an angle on the business end of the scribe. I simply placed the scribing pin 3/32" back from the perpendicular end of the tool. By placing the blunt end of the scribe up against the throttle plate and taking care to keep it square to the plate, I scribed a decent line on the TB wall. Also notice that I cut the corners off the business end of the scribe so as to scribe a little closer to the plate axle.
The cutting fluid I used is SafeTap Plus, advertised on the front of the bottle as having no solvents, no mineral oils, no oily residue, no 1,1,1-Trichloroethane (metho chloroform) which is bad for the central nervous system and bad for the the ozone. In any case, the bit stayed cool through the cutting of the six cuts.
In making the cuts I first used my variable-speed Dremel 395. What I like about it is that I can kind of guess, based on the notches on the variable switch, about where 15,000 RPM is. However, the motor tended to get pretty hot in my hand. So I switched to my old Dremel 732 (1/5 hp) with the flex extention. No problem here with a hot motor, but absolutely no way to guess the RPMs.
I'm not all that happy with the six cuts I made. Upon completion, I noticed that as I proceeded from the unit's left to right, the distance from the throttle plate increased. I didn't follow the scribed line very well. You can see this growing gap in the photo. In making the first cut, I discovered the bit wants to wander to the right, so that when finished with the cut, the curved part of it is skewed to the left. So I learned that I have to exert pressure a little more to the left as the cutting is happening if I want a curve that is equal on both sides. Then the next thing to notice in the photos is that holes 1,2,3 & 4 are too far apart. Holes 4,5 & 6 seem nicely spaced relative to each other. Then in checking how much play the bit demonstrates when placed in each hole, holes 4,5, & 6 lock in the bit pretty nicely, but holes 1, 2, & 3 allow too much lateral movement of the bit. Finally, I noticed that I went through to the outside in hole 1.
So before I attempt the groove on my '92 Cherokee 4.0, I will do another practice. I pulled a second salvage TB from a Chrysler 2.5. So I'll practice on that or I may choose to fill in the groove I just accomplished on the Plymouth Neon TB and re-do it.
One other critique item is that I think I could have made the first cut a little closer to the plate axle. I was maybe over cautious about not letting the bit get too close the hardened steel axle. Closer placement would also contribute to accommodating more than six cuts.
Take a look at the Idle Air outlet just above the top throttle plate. This seems out of the way of the groove air. So I conclude, no re-routing is required.
In summary, I'm open to comments/critiques from any and all, including thoughts about the following questions
1. Is six holes about right? I'm wondering whether I could have managed seven, if holes 1-4 were closer.
2. Is there any approximated way to know the RPMs my Dremel is putting out? Or is this just a matter of getting experience?
3. Am I right that Idle Air does not need re-routing?