TOPIC: Greetings from Nova Scotia

Hi there,
I found out about the groove through Peter Lindeman, so here I am, trying it out

I have a Hyundai Tiburon, 2006, 2.0 litre SE with about 86,000 Km on it.

So far the PCV holes in the manifold are capped off, and the spark plug gaps are set at .070"

I didn't check the fuel consumption before the mods, but after the PCV mod I was still getting around factory figures for MPG.

I have yet to run the car with both spark plug re=gapping and the PCV, that is coming next, so I'll keep those results posted.

My TB is all ready to be fitted, see attached pic.

Question: Has anyone grooved the idle bypass in their TB ??

Grant

Hi Grant! Interesting question, I've never grooved an Idle Bypass nor heard of it. Dunno if it would do anything cause there's no blade at any IAC port I know of. Thinking real hard, the only thing Ive ever seen with anything like what you describe--was a 3-bbl. carb. on a Honda CRX from the 80's '84 I think. That was a stratified-charge setup akin to Honda's old CCCV stuff from '70's, a rich charge sent to a special small combustion chamber where spark plug was, and a lean mix delivered to regular combustion chamber, 2 combustion chambers adjacent so a flame jet from small one would ignite the lean mix in larger one, and 3 valves. A dinky separate intake valve for the small barrel of the carb on each cylinder. Made very good power. Would have been intricate work to Groove that carb. animal!

But this is a unique question! Myself I doubt it would work, guess it could be attempted, but....

Interesting to me you found out of the Groove and Ron thru Peter Lindemann, I learned of both when Peter and Aaron Murakami put out their notice of their big annual conference last year and Ron was in the Speaker List. Peter and Aaron like Ron are very sharp guys, they have put out a bunch of great info for years, I built/installed Aaron's Plasma Jet Ignition on my Subaru it does work!

So If you have any more pics and an ongoing story about your Tiburon, we'd love to see more. Nice lookin' Groove work there Grant! Remember to do a re-learn on the car after you reinstall the TB.

Exhaust manifold temps and scantool datastream info are ways to see/troubleshoot results before/after the Groove process, along w/ the butt-dyno and the Exhaust Sniff test!
So If you're in Nova Scotia I'm gonna guess thats close to Sea Level?

Happy Grooving, we love to see peoples Groove work and stories!

Tracy G

Hi Tracy,

What is a scantool ? does this plug into the ECU ?? I'm assuming this is different from pulling the error codes ? just curious in case I need to resort to finding someone with one.

I am pretty much at sea level here in Nova Scotia all by a few meters ! when it's foggy you can notice the difference in power.

How do you perform a relearn ?

The .070" spark gap is working fine ! the engine is ticking over smoothly, and I think I can notice an increase in bottom end torque... but you know how it is when you've done a modification, you are inclined to think it's improved your car. I was careful to try and drive the same as I did before.....like Gas is made of gold I will know for sure when I've used another tank of gas and checked the Km's, then I'll be ready for the groove !!!

Grant

Hi Grant yes a scantool scans and can give readout of sensor data as fed into ECM, the fancier the scantool the more data and versatility. Very good tool to have if you want to do more than scratch the surface here, but not necessary to start out. You can Google it or look on ebay to see more, they plug in just like code reader. Others here speak of different lashups possible using smart phones, laptops and many different ways/combos of gear. Seems posible to get much of a scantool's performance with various combos, often for less $$ than a good scantool. Try checking in the site Index and search for scantool info look in Tools of the Trade.

Re-learn is clearing adaptive memory stored in ECU memory, setting ECU back to factory stock. Kind of wiping the chalkboard clean to help ECU adapt to the Groove & associated mods like your plug re-gapping. Done in a fashion to give accelerated ECU learning in minutes not days. IF nothing else disconnect batt. cables from batt, put jumper from + cable end to - cable end (DONT connect batt terminals, just the open cable terminals!!) turn ign. key to run turn lights on. leave like this 30 min. or more. Turn key off and lights off then connect + cable first followed by - cable. Key on/lights on loads down any residual batt. power stored in capacitors while batt. is disconnected. Start engine warm up dont touch throttle at all. Turn off when hot wait a moment, re-start, run short while, turn off, repeat 5 or more times. Then do moving re-learn starting at very low speed, go 10 feet or more pull over shut down, wait a short moment, restart, go up to 10 MPH, pull over shut down, and so on. Repeat sequence gradually increase speed working up to hiway speeds, and pick a route carefully avoiding heavy traffic to allow repeated pull over-shut down-restarts. This simulates an amount of trips at different increasing speeds which could otherwise take days. W/ an effective Groove job you can feel power increase at different speeds, but try to disallow for operator enthusiasm.

Himidity is great for power; humid here today the Subie digs it! Definite torque increase today, much more pronounced w/ my Plasma Ignition, another ball'0'wax...

You mean ready for your home-grown groove, or the Groove? When I did the subie's very first groove w/ the carbide ball, there was a slight difference--but when I went back and carefully re-cut w/ Ron's bit, that's when the Grins began!

I'm shameless in boosting the Groove, I've never seen such cross-the-board improvements w/ any other mod I've done.

Spend more time here Grant, you will find a boatload of great info on this site about how all this works!

Tracy G

Hi Tracy,
Thanks for the re-learn instructions. After disconnecting the battery(both leads), the jumper lead connects the two leads that would normally go the battery together ? this effectively shorts them out with out the battery in the circuit and drains any residual charge in the capacitors in the ECU circuit when the ignition is turned on, correct ?

The plasma ignition you speak of, is this the spark plugs modified to have a hemispherical anode and 'cage' type earth ?

I was referring to the home grown groove. The bit I ground myself, as far as I can see, is very similar to Ron's, his has the teeth ground all the way up to the shank ? The ball burr I used has the teeth ending approximately .5mm from the shank. My groove is still nicely D shaped however, and is at an angle of 14 degrees.
Are we talking about very small changes in groove geometry making big differences ?

Thanks
Grant

Yes we are,think of a pop bottle and blow air across, different angles make different tones,the groove angle changes the frequency . We have seen this many times.

Very good Grant, yes thats the basics of re-learn. You did well on making your own bit and basically understanding it's shape.

Google Plasma Jet Ignition, or look for my posts about it here in the Forum. Aaron Murakami sells a download for this ignition method for $37 I think well worth it. I sussed out the "nuts & Bolts" of how to built it and how it worked for my Subaru, I gave info I had to dig and figure out to help others. You refer to the famous Krupa plug that some have copied, this would be the ignition system to run those plugs, and works w/ other plugs too, but will quickly eat regular plugs.

If/when ya get a Personal Liscence you are/will be ahead of others, your understanding seems quite good!

Tracy G