TOPIC: 100% Pure Snake Oil

I can't wait to try this!! I'll do the first dose in my 06' saturn 2.2L, the second in my 09' ram 5.7L, and the 5ml dose in one of my many small engines..hmm.... I'll keep you guys updated!

Tonight i researched the properties in SNAKE OIL, and found that it's been tested all around the globe as a successful engine restorative, & friction modifier. Take this study i found for example on a small diesel engine! The results were: 9.1% power increase/ 12.86% increase in torque/ fuel consumption reduced between 13-32%/ 27.55% reduction of CO2 emissions, and 5.27% reduction of hydrocarbons. These guys also showed an SEM micrograph, and an EDX spectrum that shows the boron element entrapped and deposited on the wear areas on the piston rings!
I just put 5ml of SNAKE OIL in all 5 of my vehicles tonight. I'm very excited!!! You ROCK Ron!

with fuel prices on the rise again, an improvement in BSFC will help keep money in your pocket at the pump and/or delay/extend visits to it;
further, that improvement contributes to a reduction in emissions...SCIENCE, for a certain young swede woman in the news of late.

Imagine the life of a new vehicle with this treatment at the factory.

General question about snake oil. Is this a one time application or does it need to be repeated at every oil change?

While I do recommend adding a "Top-Up" of the small applicator once a year to ensure the highest level of protection, hBN will stay attached to the surfaces. But when you change your oil, you will drain out the Snake Oil in suspension. That's why the Top-Up.

But your oil changes will last 2-4 times as long, so if you change your oil 4 times a year, you could possibly see only one change per year! Of course, when your oil gets dirty, change it! But it reduces the blow-by so dramatically, the oil simply won't acidify like it did. Also, the carbon crap won't be getting into your oil like before, either.

This stuff is literally going to change all we have come to accept about lubrication. Personally, I have applied it to every system I CAN, and I can see the results, just like Michael posted above.

AND! I have just added Snake Oil for Gear Box Assemblies, which is suitable for any section of your machine that uses Gear Oil. And since it rebuilds the worn surfaces as much as 63 thousandths of an inch, it is CERTAIN to improve your power delivery! And if the system has some miles on it, it will restore the clearances, also! This reduces drag and provides more power per RPM, with less lost power from the leaks.

Anyway, the basic information (as well as links to THOUSANDS of pages of laboratory tests) are now on the new Snake Oil-Best Oil Additive EVER | Welcome to Gadgetman Land! .

I look forward to hearing of everyone's results right here! Share what you learn, for that is how you will make a mark on the children of the future.

Ron

Ron Hatton wrote: AND! I have just added Snake Oil for Gear Box Assemblies, which is suitable for any section of your machine that uses Gear Oil. And since it rebuilds the worn surfaces as much as 63 thousandths of an inch, it is CERTAIN to improve your power delivery! And if the system has some miles on it, it will restore the clearances, also! This reduces drag and provides more power per RPM, with less lost power from the leaks.

Ron - is this what to add to an automatic transmission?

I'm afraid not.

Now it is!!! Go to 100% Pure SnakeOil, anti-friction for engines up to Big Rigs and check out what's available in the SnakeOil Lineup!

If you WANT some, shoot me an email. Be sure to tell me what kind of tranny fluid you use and I'll see what I can do. The SAME THING applies to EVERYBODY!

Think it'll help you and don't see the base of what you want, EMAIL ME!!! This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Okay. After Grooving, adding my BELOVED Snake Oil and the Bilar coils to both the incoming fuel line and the upper rad hose (15 turns each) I just checked the range (usually VERY accurate) and it's projecting over 415 on this tank!

And the car companies think we can't do ANYTHING about what they want us to have.

How about we all stand out on our porches at 8 PM Tomorrow night EST and scream at the top of our lungs "I'm mad as HELL and I am NOT going to take it any MORE!!!!"

Silent revolutions are my preference: just make it happen right under their noses without making too much of a fuss, but let the folks around you know and help them follow along on your path.
(I don’t have a porch, or balcony for my apartment, but my neighbours all know what’s up. They don’t believe me - they or their parents worked at the GM factory before it shut down)

A phrase I heard someplace just entered my consciousness re: Snake Oil, the bifilar coils, and all else in our Armory of Techniques..."Silent Weapons for Quiet Wars".

While that phrase comes from a sinister place, it could be said that we are battling in a Quiet War for Good. And the posted results so far here are encouraging!

If we discover results that help give breakthroughs on the Stubborn vehicles, then we are Winning in this war!

I'm now going to order some Snake Oil to treat the engine in Shiela the Outback, my '02 Subaru. She's proving to be a thirsty beotch despite the Groove and other mods...(She's a California Girl, BTW).

And I have a question re: wire used for the bifilar coils. Would it matter whether I use pure copper 12 gauge speaker wire, or cheaper copper-coated aluminum 12/2 speaker wire? I saw online that Home Depot showed they had 12/2 speaker wire in 50 and 100 ft. spools. But when I went to the nearest store, all they had was 14/2. I assume from reading the thread that 12 gauge wire would be better than 14 gauge. There are online auctions for cheap (Chinese?) 12/2 wire, some of it really cheap. I'm just wondering what those here think...?

Thanks!

Tracy G

Tracy,
If you have a large chain like ACE hardware near you, they sell wire by the foot.
Mine has 12 gauge for .39 a foot.
I have bought there before for other projects. Coated 12 is a good way to tie things down with a twist from a pliers.
I like it better than a zip tie for torquing something to an object if you want to get something very snug.

Referring to the gear box and snake oil, I will give my experience there.
Seeing that boric acid was readily available and Boron nitride was a whole lot more expensive, I applied the BA to my gear box a couple of years ago.
Found adding Boric acid to motor oil did not work well for me even though it enhanced the lubricity of the oil greatly.
Mixed some and then ran it across my fingers feeling a vast difference with a much slicker surface than plain oil
Problem is getting the BA to mix with the oil.
Tried dissolving first in ethanol(since ethanol and water dissolve BA) which dissolved well and then added to a beaker of oil and then 2 minutes on a magnetic mixer. Mixed well and looked milky but I noticed the slickness in the feel of the oil was lost as opposed to adding BA straight to the oil.
Problem with motor oil is the BA does not suspend even after magnetic mixing for an hour but sinks/separates after a day of sitting.
Tried mixing BA with acetone. It did dissolve but the saturation rate was much less and had to use over twice the acetone to dissolve the BA.
Mixed with beaker of oil again for 2 minutes and let sit. Same results with separation after a day. So ended up just mixing BA straight with oil with mixer for an hour and poured directly into engine and then did a 45 min trip so BA would not settle in pan.
Noticed no difference in ride or MPG increase

As far as my adding to gear box, had a different experience. Had to use a turkey baster to add since I didn't have access to a lift.
Have a certain route I take to NC from NY that includes a stretch of highway on 77 south that is all downhill. I used to coast(stick shift) the stretch of 7 miles but always had to kick it back into 5th for a short burst in the first 2 miles since I lost speed due to the grade being not as steep as the rest. A short burst of pedal in 5th for maybe a quarter mile the most just to get back up to the coasting speed of around 65mph then back into neutral for the rest of the way of about 5 more miles.
Did the Boric acid treatment the summer of 2017 before the last time down this hill with my truck in December. Nothing was different about the weather or road as all the other times so there was no outside factor that would affect my coast.
For the first time in the 17 years I made the winter trip, I was able to coast the whole 7 miles without loss of speed and having to kick back in to gear for a power boost. This surprised me and had me wondering why until I remembered the boric acid addition I made during the summer. Now I realize this is not a proper test to say the treatment worked since I only did it once but seeing what boric acid is supposed to do, I would think maybe it did just that for me that time.
I never did notice fuel efficiency though which again disappointed me. Maybe not enough BA in the gear box or needed some more applications in other high friction areas.
Getting back to solving the problem with the BA settling in the oil, I though I would try again seeing the results in the gear box.
Have checked into nano particle BA so this would not be an issue but the cost is more than most would want to spend.
Looking at around $140 for 50 grams which is half an application. Supposedly 100 grams should be used in a standard 5 qt engine.
I never did post my results on the forum since I didn't see any real benefits except for the gearbox on that one trip which is still suspect whether it was a fluke coast or the BA lubrication.
But from Rons neighbors testimony it seems the BN/snake oil had much better results.
Like I said, I would have tried this a couple of years ago but the price for BN was too costly to experiment on so BA is what I used.
Glad Ron has a cost efficient way of applying the BN.

thank you, kman -
the reason I've consistently revisited that question is because I dug deeper into the video channel that Ron found the original hBN (which is different from boric acid - this is hexagonal Boron Nitride or Nitrate - which likely explains why you had problems integrating it into oil) clip he posted a couple of months ago. on that person's channel was a compelling testimonial by a customer with some experience in the automotive field who added a zinc additive (ZDDP) and that channel's version of hBN to the same transmission as I have on my vehicle and they claimed 6-7MPG mileage improvement and smoother transmission operation. 6-7 miles per gallon is not insignificant, as I'm sure you'll all agree, and I'm willing to bet it would be higher on vehicles that have been modified like ours have, so we really owe it to ourselves to have a good long hard look at this stuff in any and all lubricants/components.

I'll email you on this Ron, but my tranny fluid is Dexron VI, the synthetic stuff. i believe oil capacity is in the 10-11qt range. lots of gears in a transmission that could benefit from proper lubrication and protection; seeing as rebuilds can tend to be pricey, snake oil may be a bit of insurance against having to spend that type of money, or more on a newer vehicle.