Surely, a pleasure. Karl411 might even want to check these places out if he's having issues still.

Here's one forum that diagrams engine intake and exhaust flow (with one oopsie) and details sensor mods to keep ECU happy, and probably points you in the direction of Dan's "flutter zone." Also includes a photo of the plugged pintle on the bank 2 exhaust manifold, where the EGR tube is normally mounted:

How To: Bypass EGR without getting a CEL | The Ranger Station

THX Greg!

That forum and postings offer insight to the whole Ford EGR control strategy, very nice to have that, thanks again, Karl411 and others may want to ponder these!

Tracy G

I've also found a Ford document "Ford Fuel Injection & Engine Electronic Control - How to Understand, Service and Modify" that goes into further detail, and if memory serves, gets more into nitty-gritty of OBD-II ECUs, both generalities and Ford-specific. It might be a good addition to the documents section. It's too large to attach to a forum message. I assume a forum moderator will have to add it here.

Greg, if you can, would you email that document to me, and I'll see about getting it in here, in the documents, or the forum, wherever it will fit. If it has to go in documents, we could always just try a link to it in a forum post as a shortcut for folks.

My email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

I and I'm sure others would just LOVE to see this!! You may be helping to crack the mysteries of the Ford systems! ( I may have a new handle for you here, but I'd show it to you first! )

Tracy G

Tracy -
I'm uploading the 87MB PDF file to my Dropbox as we speak/type...
look for a DL link in your email shortly.
-greg

Ressurecting this one again:

Have been thinking about it, for the spring or even Pre-groove, which I'm hoping will get done sooner and came across this document . Check out Figure #4. The way I interpret it is when the EGR is open, you're losing as much as 5" of manifold vacuum. I'm guessing from Ron's first post up at the top of this thread, knowing he's an advocate of high/maximum vacuum, he'd be an advocate of an EGR defeat.

Well, EGR does do a couple important things, diluting the A/F charge, reducing peak temps in turn reducing NOX formation. I think some cars will do better than others when modding EGr function.

Bear in mind, EGR is a gubmint-mandated emission control device. An alert smog tester may spot an obviously defeated EGR. As well as Mr. Computer and his fun Codes. I ain't discouraging thought here, just playin' Captain Obvious about it.

I'll have a look at what you posted, Greg. OK I just had a look, thanks Again for providing useful valuable reference material Greg! I didn't know the EGR vac. solonoid vented man. vac. to atmosphere, crap, it's a factory installed vac. leak!! It's also very interesting to read that the vac. signal strength is modulated by the solonoid. This of course means the ECU varies the amount of EGR flow, not just on/off. I see a vary obvious way to mod this...

Thanks, Mr Greg!

Tracy G

Tracy G

Right, "emissions testing"...well, here in my jurisdiction they're just checking for codes; no codes, the ECU is working as it should, you pass. I'm interested in seeing if it changes anything significantly at the tailpipe...that was how they used to do it, and I've got a record of how my truck fared under that program. maybe I can find a shop that still has a 5 gas analyzer...does NY State still test tailpipe emissions?

gubmint...heh heh, yeah...mandated vacuum leaks. an interesting solution considering the stakeholders in the equation with the biggest lobby dollars.

My vehicle has an engine coolant heated intake manifold. If I lived in a warmer climate, where intake air temps are higher, I would consider un-doing that. But to ruin intake manifold vacuum with a system that brings warm air in...everything I've learned says this is wrong, especially when you're working to increase efficiency/reduce emissions by reducing fuel consumption.

Well, WE are trying to maximize fuel efficiency. The automakers are trying to make everybody happy, the various stakeholders they have to answer to, not just the car-buyers. That means the gubmint (EPA) the safety nazi's (NTSB) and the oil co's. A political game.

As an American, it's your "duty" to burn gas. Those federal gas taxes in the pump price are to me the 800-lb. "gorilla in the room". I saw something recently that a certain US Senator was speaking of RAISING those gas taxes, if you can believe it! Just what we need, right?

Anyhow, my idea of a simple mod is to install a plastic hose connector w/ a smaller ID hole than the ID of the vac. hose, in the hose between the vac. solonoid and EGR. Maybe also one in the vac. hose from man. vac. to the solonoid. Or-better- a variable restriction, like an aquarium hose valve, or one of these little valves for drip irrigation. I found these plastic valves in Irrigation dept. of Home Depot:






Cheap and effective, but keep 'em away from too much heat. A simple easily installed/removed "tuning mod" to the Ford EGR/DPFE system. Haven't tried this yet, maybe someone else can?

Tracy G

I think I follow...won't ECU throw a code if the solenoid tries to open the valve, but the vacuum isn't strong enough?

It might, always a fly in the ointment...something to try and see.

Tracy G

I don't think so.

This crossed my mind again, and in thinking where the EGR gets re-intoduced in my vehicle (right after the throttle plate, around where the groove will reside), I'm pretty sure making the valve itself stay closed under all conditions will be best. Don't wanna mess with what the groove does.

(yeah, it's -30 degrees today with the wind chill, but spring isn't far away and I'm working on populating my projects list in advance).

EGR defeat (for 5+" of boost...the solenoid itself, even when not actuated, is a vacuum drain nevermind the EGR valve) and a hot water bypass of my intake manifold, plus the PCV re-route. They'll have to raise (deepen?) my manifold vacuum...

I wish I had jumped on all of this back in the autumn when I could still tinker in my driveway...but I guess everything happens for a reason; RVS needed time to work.