TOPIC: Video- Improving the stock power and ground cables

Ok guys, here's a great idea regarding a stock vehicle charging system's cables. This guy in the video does really sanitary work, you'll see. Many car stereo nuts will do this, I think it has value for us as well.

We've talked here before about checking and cleaning Ground connections on engine sensors, and wiring harness Ground connections before. Personally I've had an example where just replacing the original corroded battery Negative ground cable cleared up a car's performance issue.

One of the things I like in this video,, is he left the stock battery cables that were in Ok shape, in place. He just adds extra, high quality battery cables in parallel with the originals. He replaces the OEM wimpy engine to chassis ground cable with a much better one too.

So, while doing this stuff by itself, won't really improve performance much or at all, I think it's worthwhile to see and think about. It's like charging system insurance. The one that's commonly overlooked is the engine/chassis ground cable. Ignition currents are virtually totally spend across the plug gaps- but they STILL need to get to ground to get back to the battery negative terminal.



Tracy G

Ok, now that you've seen the video on the cables, watch what this knowledgeable guy has to say about the Alternator, Battery, and Ground return for the Alternator case! Great explanation, did you ever think about this? ( I did this years ago on the Subie).



Tracy G

This kind of thing is what I tend to think of as an infrastructure investment: make something proper and bulletproof from the beginning and you won't have to stop and ponder on workarounds much, if at all. In modern vehicles so reliant on computers/sensors and electrical flows, it just makes sense to have that power flowing freely, going somewhere to do something, rather than letting it go to waste.

I love that Alternatorman video, and I'm 100% sure that adding the 4th wire (and upgrading all of the others to lower gauge) were directly related to the successes I've had with my vehicles.

Done.

Karl, that has to be the shortest post here Ever!

Tracy G

Didnt want to order from the site that was connected to the video. Around $50 for the basic set.
Found 4 gauge wires with eye loop at Pep Boys for about half the price.
Did the upgrade except for the Alt to the + terminal since that wire is large already and hard to get to.
Alt is buried somewhat and running wire intrusive thru engine path.
Did the battery negative to frame ground, engine to frame and the extra alt bolt to negative terminal(as in the big 4 video).

Hello there. I was involved several years ago doing this very same thing but in a much more expanded way.I will provide info as time permits.Attached is an ad that I had in an old file on my computer. this guy was as I understood an expert and was flown around the country doing this.As the attachment shows he was located on the west coast. Maybe the phone number is still good. If so let me know. The guy I was associated with did a lot of this on 18 wheelers and was very successful and as far as I know is still doing it.I did two city vehicles and the performance of the two vehicles increased as well as MPG. I do not have a lot of time to get on line but will attempt to follow up with more info as time permits. The Japanese were doing it years ago I read somewhere and kits are available on ebay. The cables we used were Tinned Copper marine grade and we crimped the lugs and then heat shrink with glue on the ends which prevented corrosion. there was also a sequence in which it was done.Every engine component which had a gasket was grounded as well as the exhaust system and radiator frame on both sides. we started with a NO 2/0 cable and went to a No 4 and then down to a NO 10.My van MPG went up about 15% or better and the performance was enough that my wife wanted to

know what I did to it.

Hi Kenneth, glad to see you back! (I mentioned in another post somewhere that more Gadgetmen from the past are coming back in.)

To me it does make sense to optimise electrical current paths. Cutting resistance works wonders in the Ignition system. Why not, then use similar principles in the starting/charging system.

I'd like to know more about what you were speaking of. If there is indeed a practical way to optimise the electrical system, such that actual fuel economy can be increased.

Then I and We are all ears!!

Please do go on....

Tracy G

On the surface of it, it would seem that improving the ground paths from engine and chassis metal back to battery ground should not do so much to help MPG's. It seems obvious that giving added high quality low resistance parallel ground return paths, should improve charging and battery state of charge. It could maybe ease alternator loading and even improve the Ignition spark at the plug gap.

So by adding various extra quality low-resistance ground cables, it might have some effect on the spark. Since the spark is seeking a path back to ground. I've learned and done so much to optimise the B+ or Positive hi voltage side of it, so improving the ground path does make sense.

There is a "hidden ingredient" in the Plasma spark method I've used as taught by Aaron Murakami.

That ingredient is an extremely brief period in the spark initiation, called Negative Resistance. You would have to read Aaron's material, and understand the whole theory of it's operation. But as unusual as that term sounds, it has to be there. It's an integral reason for the how and why of it.

Trying to keep this short- I'll go out on another limb.

Ron's spark plug gap increase, improves the spark, I think, by shortening the time duration of the spark. A wider gap needs more time to become ionized enough for arc-over to occur. That shorter duration discharge to ground (arc-over) is the same energy delivered faster. This is very similar to what the Plasma ignition does, though Plasma ignition is higher order event.

Illustration- a firecracker. Break one open, pour out the powder and light it. It goes FZZZT! the same energy as when the firecracker fuse is lit and it explodes. Both are combustion events, but the exploding one is a much faster burn.

Out on the limb--by adding extra ground cables from the engine block, head(s), frame, exhaust, and radiator,etc. back to battery negative terminal- This won't create Negative Resistance, but it WILL reduce resistance in the ground paths. it sure can't hurt!

What if we combine the wider plug gaps, with the extra ground cables?

I seem to recall something from basic electrical theory, that having parallel circuits ( to ground w/ the extra cables here) reduces total circuit resistance. Anyone please correct my thoughts here if need be.

Improving the engine metal/chassis/frame ground return path might not help the ignition so much, but it can improve all else in the electrical system.

Tracy G

I tend to look at it from a technology point of view:
If the computer, sensors and motors/actuators etc on vehicles have solid, reliable grounding and power, they'll all function more closely to the spec/ideal to which they were designed and built...everything from MAF/IAT, TPS and ECT sensors to fuel injectors and o2. Rather than guessing and fudging, a 3.8v reading in a circuit calibrated for 5v will mean something other than "it's within range, this Signal, but it might mean 70% or 95% so I'll split the difference to be safe until I know differently".
I know I'd be upset if that's what was going on in my computer and a few dollars and a few minutes of time could get 10% or more distance out of my gas tank, simply by eliminating that 25% window of uncertainty. Now spread that 25% uncertainty evenly across every electrical system and this upgrade looks less upgrade and more necessity. Fuel pumps not having to work as hard to provide correct pressure to injectors, and lasting longer, for instance. Fuel injectors tightening up, opening and closing as quickly and accurately as they were designed to, or better. ECT sensor being definitive in reporting temp to the computer for open or closed loop, rather than yes-maybe, ask someone else-no, back and forth. Batteries that charge fully, hold their charge better, deliver the current they were designed to for longer. Headlights lasting...
You get the picture. $100 and a Saturday afternoon to save how much in fuel and parts and maintenance over the years of owning a vehicle? A no-brainer to me.