TOPIC: 2005 Magnum Whistle and mileage

I was just catching up on the forum, reading through them. and it doesn't look like anyone actually replied to your question about the PCV valve.
So, I throw in my 3 cents... Plug the PVC valve connection on the TB side. You're trying to keep any vacuum leaks (whether accidental or designed) the furthest away from the TB. The re-routing is to comply with the... let's just say.. 'EPA rules' to keep this forum kid friendly. Look for what my buddy did with re-routing his 2004 Mustang in the forum here. He's talking about oil collectors, keeping the hot air from going back into the TB and such, he uses this car as a 'track (non-EPA-compliant)' and a 'daily driver'. So it might help to see what happens when you don't have to follow the EPA's rules. (even-though all the metering tests show massive reduction in any 'smog'stuff, it'll take years for the gov't to change rules for basic sense)

I can see where it would be possible to reroute the PCV, but I can't see safely rerouting the EGR. If you tried to re-route it to the same place as the PCV, the heat from that would probably melt the air duct from the filter to the TB - which would create an even bigger problem.

All of this seems to imply that there is no way to eliminate the EGR "leak" - which means the "smaller" leak from the PCV doesn't matter.

So, I think it's at the point where I have to just wright it off - assuming I can get the groove removed. I'd just ignore it except for that damned whistle!

Harry,

I don't know who told you to re-route the EGR, but one thing is apparent. You are over-thinking this whole thing and it is obvious that you need a real Gadgetman to look at your install and see what the hell you've done to your engine!

I know... Feelings of desperation cause desperate acts, but you really need some personal assistance. Let's get a G-Man to you so we can either get your solution under your hood or fix whatever is causing the problem.

SOMETHING is not right with this, and I am unable to get the info I need to help. Let's take this off the forum and into a more productive area.

Someone who knows what they're doing needs to take a look.

Is there anyone near you?

Please post your city and state so we can get someone to you and fix your issues.

Okay?

I did have a professional GMan do my groove - Ron - in November of last year. I'm in Sedona, AZ. I drove down to his (yours?) place to get the groove.

He disconnected the PCV while doing the groove, which didn't help. He also directed my through the other tests - vacuum leaks, resetting computer, etc - all with no results. The only thing I couldn't afford to do was the more advanced vacuum leak test (smoke). I'm trying to figure out how to do that on my own.

Contrary to what you may have gathered, I am familiar with engines and minor repairs. And, admittedly, I do tend to over think things. That's a characteristic that has served me well in application design and maintenance - always think of the worst case, allow for it, and you're usually not unpleasantly surprised.

Anyway, he was involved with his tour and we couldn't get together personally. He suggested I join this forum for assistance. And, it was - at least, my interpretation was - their suggestion to reroute the EGR since that's, at least on my engine, current routed to the intake - after the TB.

And, I'm not desperate I joined the forum in the hopes I could get it working. However, after 4 months of nothing, I'd already figured it wasn't going to work on this engine/car. Hopeful isn't desperate.

Finally, I'm not sure what information you're unable to get. I've tried to provide the info I though was needed, as well as that asked for in earlier posts. And, I'm more than happy to provide more if requested.

To assist, I've reattached the photo's of my setup.

Heathen and I were talking about my concerns for clean air, catch cans, etc., and your string came up.
I have never been a Mopar guy BUT curiosity got me. Take a look at this:

LX Forums Forum

Based on the diagrams on the link and your pics it seems like your present PCV set up is bone stock, no relocation etc. I could be completely wrong but, if I'm looking at this right to get the pcv return out of the flow, and stop turning the back of you butterfly black (only can guess what the rest of your intake looks like) cap off the hose nipple sticking off the side of your intake - put a small universal filter on the end of the pcv hose end you just took off, clear your tables (reset ECU) and drive around (off road or at your local track since opening this intentionally closed loop is verboten by the EPA) this should, maybe, might - assuming all your egr mods have been restored to stock and no vacuum leaks elsewhere get you where you want to be. In my case this set up on my 4.6 Ford has provided the best mileage and power increases. So far the best increase I have logged is a 17% increase in MPG. But, I think there is more increase than that in reality. Mine is a manual. I drive - lets say less than conservatively. Thus, once my driving style returns to pregroove normalcy, I presume the number will be higher. Again, this is "off road" compatible only if you try this on public roads and get inspected big big fines and impound may occur.

As for the whistle, is yours constant of only at a specific flow rate? Mine was making noise from about 27 to 43 mm sq./sec at MAF. I polished the edges of the groove a little and narrowed that to 30 to 36. It still happens from time to time now and doesn't bother me. I just remember that a std whistle works by creating turbulent air in a fixed space and since this whole thing is based on turbulence and pressure, it reminds me it's working. Maybe it's justification, but I have also had a few people ask me if I had finally added a blower. Keeps em guessing.

I hope this helps me as much as your aftermarket catch can idea helped me. Just waiting for UPS to show up so I can get it in. I hope it will work well enough I don't have to switch the pcv system at the track once it's in. But, given the 80 to 170 degree (F) drop in IAT maybe not. Good luck.

In all Dodge engines I have seen since 2004 or so, they moved to this type of PCV Valve. (See new topic on PCV valves under Dodge)

This PCV Valve...

... must be roughed in at the bottom and then filled with an epoxy of your choice.

I am not sure whether I did Harry's or not. I may not have.

Be sure you do!

Ron