TOPIC: 2003 Subaru Legacy Wagon 2.5L

Update on my '85 Subaru: the Holidium Labs emissions reduction hologram chip on the gas tank works. As I explained in my reply to Juan Reyes, it's ridiculously simple to install. and it looks like they have just incorporated additional stuff into the plastic chip the Hologram is encased into.

This is the application of advanced science in a way that I think is effective, based on how my stubborn Subaru is now improving. Doesn't happen instantly--but over a month since install the car does run much more consistently w/ more power. Idle quality much improved. Leaned out idle mix screw far more than ever before possible. After Grooving and modding this engine/car in more ways than I ever have before, this crazy little plastic hologram chip taped to my gas tank seems to have finally tied it all together.

I would say this hologram chip is an enabling technology, doesn't compete w/ the Groove. And I'm starting to think I might not need to replace those 2 catalytic converters after all, the exhaust is cleaning up.

Call me crazy if ya like, but my Subie is happier now!

Tracy, sounds like science fiction and a scam(think fuel line magnets and tornado) but some technology is sometimes far beyond the scope of understanding for those who dont know the engineering concept of this device and how it works.
If you say it works, I will try it.
The site gives the test sheet to view and states in writing the test was done 30 minutes later(after installing?) or 17 minutes later according to the printout on top. When you said your exhaust is cleaning up,did you mean HC or NOX smell?
Am also checking into the new product(RVS) Ron posted about that seems like the American supplier for what you recommended(XADO)in another post.
But let me also state that I am still in limbo with finding that vacuum leak or whatever it may be(compression?) that is not giving me the MPG gains or HP I should have with the Groove. Have been chasing down a mechanic for the last 2 months who from what I hear is very good with engines and does house calls/on site work. The other two mechanics I know seem to be unqualified to do the tests and work I require to find the problem. Problem is that this mechanic seems to have(from what I hear) a drinking problem and is very unreliable in returning calls as I have found out. Have put in over a dozen calls to him and his secretary and cant seem to get this guy to have the time to make an appointment or even return calls!!! . The guy who recommended him who had his Jeep worked on and did wonders, also has not received an answer to his calls for more work. Want to get my engine running as it should and need answers to why its not. Seems like brick walls at every turn. Getting the groove bit and grooving with info from Ron and this forum was the only smooth advancement I made in getting my engine to where it should be. If I could find another honest mechanic with the proper skills, I would call him right away.
Am dreaming of the day when I can post a success story with MPG and HP gains on the post that
Rino Stoof started.

Hi Karl, the best advice I could give now is get the RVS and use it. And might try Ron's Castrol ATF in the gas//oil trick. Maybe ATf in the gas first, oil later if gonna do RVS...

I know the Holidium Labs chip is very unusual (ahem!) Strangest thing I've ever seen for a car. But I did notice an improvement in power. The exhaust smell reduced but now seems close to before I added the hologram chip, I think I simply have old worn dirty cat's, and exhaust shops keep only wanting to do an OEM style cat for like $450...

but at the core of it, our Subie's are kinda stodgy and stubborn, I have learned my lesson, I will always only get a car w/ enough power to begin with, a better starting place. Improvements are always possible. I ought to have bought a turbo version...

Another idea might ask around pro end shops or a shop that's Subaru specialist..I saw on a different forum advice about finding a shop that uses the Sun or Snap-On fuel injector cleaning service. I can't endorse from experience, just passing on what I read tonight. Might also look for Subaru-specific forums to see if anybody has anything worthwhile to say about one like yours...

Lastly, think of things that could rob power/efficiency, really try to open up the imagination...

Tracy G

Hey Karl!

Sticky valves are one of the most common causes of lost vac. When the valves are slow, the engine will be drawing air in from the exhaust. To check your valve operations without going into the engine is a simple thing. Just take a piece of paper and lay it flat across the end of your tailpipe. If it flutters or sucks the paper into the pipe, then a good cleaning is strongly advised.

Fortunately, just a quart of Castrol brand ATF (any type) will clean the valves and the valve springs in about a week in most cases. Just dump some into the oil and let it work.

Add another quart tot he gas tank and you'll have a cleaner fuel system. Fuel pumps, pressure regulators and injectors all get the treatment...

Hope this helps!

Ron
PS: Clean your system before adding the RVS. It has to touch the metal, you know...

Hi Karl, the best advice I could give now is get the RVS and use it. And might try Ron's Castrol ATF in the gas//oil trick. Maybe ATf in the gas first, oil later if gonna do RVS.


Will call for the RVS today and as far as the Castrol ATF, put that in weeks ago when Ron posted about it. Just put a quart in the crankcase and asked here whether to put in two(as some did in the post I found online)if the viscosity is the same but was advised not to from Ron. Have to get another Castrol for the gas tank since all I have is another brand and dont want to add to gas tank if it wont do the job Castrol does. Next step is the leak down test when I get a hold of this mechanic(if I ever do)and install the Extreme Plugs at the same time.


Might also look for Subaru-specific forums to see if anybody has anything worthwhile to say about one like yours...

Have a Ford Ranger engine. The Subie was reserved for those who dont mind banging their head against the wall trying to get more power out of a tiny demon who wont cooperate.

Thanks Ron.
Saw the video someone posted a couple months ago about the sticky valve test with the tailpipe and I did it immediately.
Tested OK since it didnt seem to flutter by sucking in. Didnt seem to ever touch the tail pipe by a vacuum but constant pressure out keep the paper clear of the pipe if I did the test right as the video showed.

PS: Clean your system before adding the RVS. It has to touch the metal, you know...

I did put in some Motorkote over a month ago and according to the videos, this adheres to the metal surfaces. So am wondering if the RVS would be negated if there is a thin coat of Motorkote already on everything inside. Here is the video again about Motorkote.

Hi Karl, I got mixed up here...You have the Ford engine in the Mazda truck, right? Had you and Justus' Subaru mixed up...

But you, I and Justus have all been battling uphill against stubborn engines that are all small in relation to the vehicles they power. Plus your Ford engine has high miles too, reason you're thinking of a Leak-Down test. OK...

If you have access to an air compressor that's big enough and tools, you could do your own Leak down instead of waiting for the unreliable dude. It needs to be bigger than those little compressor's like carpenters use to run air nailers, bigger than those small portable ones. Other words, ya can't just pick it up easily...

I don't recall now if you said if you have done a simple compression test, a compression tester is pretty cheap, parts stores even loan 'em. A compression test alone will give documentable before/after results of basic ring seal conditions. Leak down tester is pricier $$ less common don't know if could be rented..

But I got a good laugh when ya mentioned little demons in the Subaru's Sometimes it seems like there is an invisible evil little "freind" in my Subie, that's why I've been trying so hard w/ this car for so long. As I have said before..Anybody got a Magic Amulet I can use? I have gotten gains over time, but sometimes it's like the car is still making up it's mind...

And you've been bangin' your own head w/ the Mazda/Ford, so I empathize with ya Karl! I think that the RVS could help w/ring seal and internal engine condition. I'd call them and explain the story w/ the Mazda truck first. The torquemaster's are great plugs and likely will last nearly forever. But you gotta decide if can justify them $$.

In the end some vehicles just do better than oothers. Power//weight ratios, and condition do matter. But I'm un-aware of any laws against Alchemy...

Tracy G

The torquemaster's are great plugs and likely will last nearly forever. But you gotta decide if can justify them $$


Already have the plugs(8 of them)and was waiting for the mechanic to do the leak down test and install the plugs at the same time. Didnt install them myself because 4 of the 8 plugs are covered by the manifold and it seems I would have to have the manifold removed to install the plugs. Just too cautious to take it off myself only to find I ruined the gasket or caused some other problem I cant resolve and have my vehicle down while I try to fix the issue. I am doing everything in my power to get this engine running like it should with the groove and buying those plugs was simple. Just apprehensive for a while after talking with the PR man and having the site down for so long.

Hi Karl, I got mixed up here...You have the Ford engine in the Mazda truck, right? Had you and Justus' Subaru mixed up...

But you, I and Justus have all been battling uphill against stubborn engines that are all small in relation to the vehicles they power. Plus your Ford engine has high miles too, reason you're thinking of a Leak-Down test. OK...

Tracy,
Just had a chat with Justin from RVS and the explanation on what this product does goes over my head.
To build up worn parts of the rings, cylinders and other parts without having the metal(or another comparable substance) to do it does not seem logical. To fill in missing metal through wear without having the metal or other substance to fill those voids seems incomprehensible but hey, there are so many things beyond logic it astounds me.
If what Justin says is true, and he seems like an up front guy, I wont need a leak down test if that is where the trouble can be found in my engine. He spent over 25 minutes with me explaining how it works and answering my questions with my confusion on how this works without introducing any substance in the oil to bond on the voids made by friction. Supposedly this RVS will take care of voids in the pistons or rings and the compression will be back to when I bought it new. Sounds WAY to good to be true but am trusting Ron and Justin on this and just ordered two treatments. Will have it here on Monday and he said I should see results within the first 20 miles or so.
Will post it here if that is the issue and I get results. That may be the reason I could not get a hold of the mechanic. Maybe there was a better way(and less expensive) to find and fix the problem with my engine. Crossing my fingers on this.

PS: He said he chatted with you and that you and Ron were very knowledgeable on engines. Told him I can see that from the posts and many of the work you deem simple is beyond what I feel comfortable in doing on todays modern engine(too many hoses and gadgets).

Karl

Hi Karl glad you called Justin about RVS!

The process by which it works will sound mysterious unless one has been thinking about engines for years... I'm sure the Russians were amazed all those years ago when their well drill bits started lasting wayy longer than they ought to have, as well. Well the Russians are a very smart bunch and evidently DID figure it out, and kept it as an industrial/military secret for years.

I understand being reluctant to dig into your engine. I've found that sometimes the only way something gets done is the DIY way, with all that entails. The more one wrenches the more confidence one has. IT's a learning process, mistakes do happen, but how else do we learn?

W/ so many miles, intake man. gaskets are prob. deteriorated anyway. Those gaskets aren't that expensive. To me it would be more a question of time and place to work, having tools, and having something else to drive if it winds up taking more than one session, going on parts runs, etc. I like to have a good manual handy for reference for procedure torque spec's, etc. Getting mating surfaces clean, keeping debris out of the engine, and general attention to detail is important.

I will think of what I'm doing and visualize the steps I will go through. If I do a "Manifold-ectomy" I will stuff paper towels into head/manifold ports and openings so debris doesn't fall in. Just gotta be sure to remove 'em right before re-assembly (ask me why I know ) Maybe someone has a youtube vid up of the procedure?

I'd view the spark plug change on yours as combining the manifold gasket replacement w/ it, it's basically mandatory and an opportunity to ensure the manifold has proper sealing--and it's likely that there could be vac. leaks there anyhow, some leaks will be internal and don't always respond to a carb spray test. Need to give time to do the job just be methodical, use masking tape to label where//how hoses/wire plugs go, it CAN be done. IF you already have tools and a place and time, then $$ to pay someone else can go to other tools needed, and then you have them, a torque wrench for the manifold bolt torque specs might be avail. from a parts store as a loaner or renter. A hassle but the job will give ya the t-masters and you will know it's sealed. that's life w/ engines...

I've noticed that sometimes the angst and tooth-grinding/grumbling over doing an unfamiliar job is more energy than actually doing it. I had to push myself into changing the timing belts on the Subie a month ago, and that's how I felt when it was done!

Good luck!

Tracy G

To all who have been following this post, The green machine is down for the time being. The head gaskets are in need of repair, or worse. Time will tell. Time and money are two things I don't have enough to spare at this time. I have another vehicle that I will be posting on as things are modified. I bought another used Subi and will put that in it's own post. Until I get the engine removed and can look at the cause of my issues this will be the last post from me on this thread.

Justus

sorry 'bout your Subaru, Justus. I've seen info elsewhere regarding newer ones esp the 2.5 Liter and head gaskets are definitely an issue w/ them. There are several good Subaru forums like and others where owners and tech's get into nitty-gritty detail. All takes time and money of course. Mine is doing better than ever w/ it's new Weber carb, I never thought this EA82 engine could make this much power.

Definitely let us know what's up with your car situation, I've enjoyed our conversations and look forward to hearing more from ya!

Tracy G