TOPIC: pre-groove vehicle prep

Tracy -
If you're talking about this V6 Ford it's a later version than mine with a bigger engine. It would have the composite intake manifold (no bypass to do here) to go along with that (larger) plastic TB. I'm all aluminum. I'll get some more pics up after I do some work on it this weekend...Seafoam DeepCreep is on sale this week, so I may pull the TB off and clean it and the IAC valve if I'm feeling particularly ambitious.

re Reading that thread, and the results...155MPH??? my vehicle is speed limited at about 90-95.
Was the throttle plate feathered/shaped? I can't quite tell from the pics

Hey all -
did my oil change just now, and I pulled apart mt TB and IAC to have a look and to clean them. Here's what it all looked like:

I'd never realized that the Idle Air port is as large as it is, maybe 1/2" in diameter. It's well ahead of the throttle plate though, so it shouldn't interfere with the placement of the Groove. I still can't get over how big it is, given there's a hole in the throttle plate!

It was very dirty...I can't seem to recall having cleaned either of those myself before, but It may have been done when I took the old boy in there.

Now the only problem I'm having is it doesn't want to seem to start! It cranks, but it won't turn over.

Crank but no start, or doesn't even crank over? Battery voltage, is it at least 12.6 at rest? TPS/IAC connector plugs??

Greg did you get a shot of the underside of TB w/ the gasket removed? I'd like to see it if possible. Just a couple friendly suggestions for ya--

Yes the IAC port is far enough downstream from throttle blade for the Groove...but it looks like it will affect the Groove's effect. Air coming in thru the IAC port will directly disturb the vortices exiting the Groove,esp. if the IAC is open more than just cold start. Plus the IAC airflow will act as a "vacuum leak". Don't get me wrong the IAC air is necessary to support idle, cold fast idle and to raise RPM for a/c function. IT may be possible to restrict/relocate the IAC airflow
in a fashion like this, depending on you your Ford TB is cast.



I posted this post of the first real Groove job I did 3 yrs ago, to give some idea of a possible way to re-route the IAC air on your Ford TB. Depends on the way your TB is made. Also the big port in your TB is right in the center area of the bore right under the center of the Groove, the most critical area of the Groove. This is cause the center is the first area exposed as throttle opens.

I've always thought at length about restricting IAC flow. The OEM's always seem to create a giant port opening for IAC's, I still wonder why, maybe so IAC will still work even if the TB is really gunked up...? I dunno. I've learned to study TB's where the IAC port is integral to the TB.

Anyhow, I thought this is worth bringing up, you could always do the Groove first, then see about IAC mods later.

Tracy G

13.8 V at rest on the battery. Recent Fuel pump replacement, so I know it's getting gas and must be spark. The ignition coil pack has tested out of spec on the secondaries...and I made it to the parts store before it closed. Stay tuned...I really hope it's not a timing chain thing.

No pics of intake side without the gasket yet.

Just a vague hunch from past memories...TPS.

Tracy G

TPS is indeed toast. Part tomorrow...which shouldn't surprise me for a 14 year old truck...

Thanks for confirming my hunch! Beats a timing chain or belt, eh?

Tracy G

still crank no start. replaced dead TPS and out of spec coilpack. stubborn thing...
havent tested compression. Forums suggest it may be a timing thing, meaning a replacement of the Cam Position sensor...looking into it.

wha happen?!?!?

Does it sound the same as before during cranking? If you have fuel (pull a plug and smell could it be flooded from all the cranking?) and spark (pull a plug wire hold near metal as someone turns key) then compression is what's left, and THAT could unfortunately be timing, OR a bad cam or crank sensor..If it's flooded, pull fuel pump fuse and crank, OR just pull plugs let it dry out. If really flooded, I'd pull plugs, and WAIT till the gas fumes evaporate to no smell. I once had a mechanical fuel pump diaphragm fail on a Mopar big-block, gas drained into crankcase till hydrolock...we pulled plugs but failed to wait long enuf...luckily we took precaution of having fire extinguishers handy. I cranked it an' WOOSH a big fireball rolled out under the open hood! fire bad...!
good luck Greg!

Tracy G

I'm borrowing a compression tester from a friend tomorrow, and I should check on Fuel pressure (not assume a new part works), so while I've got the plugs out testing compression (which will give an indication on RVS' effectiveness as an added side benefit, since I'm taking the Monty Python perspective on this: "Always look on the bright side of life") and spark.
The only codes it threw were a small evap leak from a split hose between filler neck and fuel tank and a Fuel level gauge malfunction (the sending unit, obviously, is telling the ECU something it doesn't understand, so this is why I might suspect the new fuel pump).
I'm frustrated, but I'm not murderous. I'm sure it's something small and silly and I'll be doing the Homer Simpson "D'oh!" as soon as I get it rectified. No doubt it will give me other things to look at in my pre-groove prep.
Phew!

I'm bumping this thread, we have some new folks in here, I think it deserves kept near top of forum topics. Newbies-read thru Heysoundude's posts, this is a good thread. Ya gotta set the stage if ya want the Fat Lady to sing!

Tracy G

I believe the start of this thread was my first post on here after discovering the Groove, and in retrospect, yeah, it was a good place to start.