I'll blab in here after the fact- Kev, as heysoundude says, you can add an AOS as and when you see fit. Details of them I've extensively posted in the Index. DIY catch cans, Euro- type cyclone separators, all about it. I stress to watch closely for signs of oil, oil vapor, and water anywhere in the re-routed PCV system, crankcase, the oil fill cap, and oil dipstick. Done right, the various AOS setupa can catch nasties and prevent trouble, I have a full setup on my 85 Subaru, it needs it esp. in winter! Misunderstanding the crankcase vent. and PCV system is common, don't be afraid to ask Q/A, and post up pics of what yer' doin!
Gadgetman Reno, NV
Now here's the thing. I haven't done anything to my 02 f150 yet and last time I did an oil change on the truck i noticed a white creamy crap on the oil cap when I went to fill the oil? What does that mean? I got water in my oil?
That would be the best case, water condensate in your oil. A seperator should help with minimizing that.
Worst case is engine coolant, meaning a head gasket leak or warped/cracked head. These are somewhat more time consuming and expensive to rectify.
How's the heat in the truck? I know my little Ranger (Mazda B-Series, actually) doesn't get properly warm when my coolant gets low.
Have your coolant levels been falling, requiring top-up? does the temp gauge spike? It's tough in this cold we're having to tell if the exhaust is white because of burning coolant...
New/used engine.The engine came from California with 80,000 miles/ 123,000 km. I think it's just condensation cuz I've change the oil before it got cold and it was fine. I think it's just the cold weather but I will add one of those catch cans and see what happens
Ditto to ya, Kev, that white milkshake goo under oil fill cap is from condensation mixing w/ oil vapors there, my Subie does that some in cold wet weather. Oil fill cap is prob. cooler than surrounding material and so water vapor condenses there. A decent AOS like the one I made will catch much of the water vapor. I'm letting mine fill w/ water/crankcase vapors all winter long so I can see how much it traps by springtime. For the Subie, I found that I had to do a modified PCV re-route in winter-I left the PCV connected stock, but installed a restricter in the hose. If I re-route it fully, w/ man. vac. capped, this engine gets too much water condensation in crankcase. The Subie engine is all-aluminum, it heats/cools rapidly, and in winter, it's like a water collector! Of course, now that I have this all sussed-out, we are having a dry warm winter here...As you guys up North and East are gettin' slammed...
When thinking about PCV re-routing, idle air control valve mods, and other things, If I'm concerned w/ someone in another area, I consider what the climate there is like...
Gadgetman Reno, NV
Now that makes sence. These f150 all have aluminum heads. Now being a sprinkler fitter we use something called a low point drain on dry sprinkler system in parking garages. In a dry sprinkler system we use air instead of water so it does freeze in the colder weather and these low point drains collect any condensation that happens as the temperature warms up and cools down. I think I'll try to make one out of 1/2" pipe with a ball 1/2 ball valve and see how that works out. I also tried to see the pictures you put up but I'm having no luck in seeing them.