Here is another Groove By Mail Groove job. I did this for a nice guy named Victor, in Anchorage Alaska.
I had to think of just which category to put this one in- as it could go in the GM, Get Grooved by Mail, or even the Personal License Kit Program categories. This is the fifth Groove I've cut using the new Super Bit, the first on a TB for a customer. The Large Super bit was actually easier to use than the old type, as it cut faster, yet ran cooler. This new bit is the same as are included in the new PL Kits.
First, about cutting this Groove. I held the Dremel 4000 at #15 on the speed knob. After each downward cut bottomed, I turned off the Dremel, and submerged the bit in used power steering oil to cool it. I've noticed that the new bits don't seem to get so hot, the oil is an "insurance policy" to protect the cutter. The speed is lower than I've used w/ the old HSS bits, yet it cuts faster. There was only very slight bit chatter, easily controlled. These new Carbide bits are pretty severe-looking with really wide flutes. But- boy, do they work!
They have an identical side profile as Ron's previous ones. Aluminum did not build up in the flute gaps, at ALL!
Mounted the TB in my Panavice as always, re-positioning as I went to keep the cutting zone close to level. I use both hands to hold the flex shaft. The Groove came out OK, but the radius curve in the TB bore wall right under the plate necessitated a slight angle change after first placing the bit against the plate. This caused moderate scalloping and slight "steps" in the flat area in the Groove. Groove holds reasonably tight to the bit, tested after cutting. TB's with a straight bore wall, should result in smoother Grooves. Moving the bit slightly to the left to clean up scallop ridges was noticeably faster and easier than the old bits, and seemed to cause less "wallowing out" of the Groove.
My current opinion of these new bits is: These bits, if used right--will do a beautiful job. Four rules emerge:
1. Use Meduim-low Speeds!
2. after each cut bottoms against shaft taper, turn Dremel off, submerge bit in oil to cool.
3. Mount TB in a vice, and both hands to hold flex shaft steady, it's MUCH easier this way!
4. stay alert for bit chatter, excess vibration can kill Carbide tools.
The TB: This Chevy 4.3L Vortec cable-drive TB required lots of Epoxy work. I choose to fill in the giant rectangle opening on the upper bore wall, the IAC inlet channel. I cleaned up this grungy junkyard TB and pulled the IAC valve. I stuff a clear box tape-wrapped hose into the lower IAC valve bore to keep epoxy out. JB Quick and regular JB Weld won't stick to the slick side of clear box tape. I mix and fill in the big rectangle upper opening, it took 4 or 5 steps of fill to get it slightly over filled. I used the old G-Man trick of box tape as a dam to hold epoxy in place. Epoxy was filed/shaved/sanded smooth to match TB upstream wall contours. Then drilled 2 holes thru to intersect the IAC valve bore. With this involved technique, I act to smooth out airflow along upstream wall. I think this big IAC inlet duct would mess up boundary layer airflow heading right for the Groove, under the plate. The drilled holes give the IAC restriction, yet will allow sufficient air in for fast idle or A/C engine load compensation. I tried to allow enough IAC airflow for a cold climate (Alaska). IF it was going to say, Arizona, I would only have drilled one hole.
There is a thin area of casting wall next to the Groove, that is part of the IAC inlet duct, so I epoxied that spot. Then on the second Groove cut the bit broke thru casting next to the left end of the shaft. I roughed the aluminum exterior w/ a needle file on both exterior ends of the Groove. Covered both spots, filling in the breakthrough. Proceeded to finish Grooving, then checked my work w/ a flashlight. I could see faint light where the bit cut into the backfill of the IAC lower duct. The epoxy was thin there, so I added more JB Quick. One thing I re-learned was, USE Enough Hardener!!
Blew 'er off w/ compressed air, a final inspection, re-installed the cleaned IAC valve, boxed 'er up, and mailed 'er out to Victor in Alaska!! With the 7 page Instruction set, of Course!
I made this long post on this Groove job, and info on the new Super Bits, as info to help all you Gadgetmen, whether Newbies, old hands, or prospective new PL kit Gadgetmen. I want all you guys to get some tips from my experience, so I go into detail of things. IF you wanna learn, you can see the pics below, and figure what pics go with what I'm yakkin' of here.
Please post any Q/A you have!
Tracy G
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