TOPIC: Relatively new exploration of magnetic fields in fluid dynamics.

Ron Hatton wrote: "In this instance, it is the upper radiator hose, Perlito.

I am of the firm position that magnetically aligning everything flowing through the various engine systems is a good thing"

Sorry, after reading the link, i realized that someone had given me a similar info about a decade ago but didn't bother to investigate it. The Bac coil could be a changer for me since my car is an old 2002 revo (gas) because i don't understand the 'groove'. I hope they showed data 'before n after'. Can someone pls provide the data of the bac coil on their cars? tnx

I jumped on this and finished two applications on fuel lines within about an hour. This counts the time I went looking for the materials.

First, I did our 2011 Ford Taurus Limited. Here's what that one looked like:



As you can clearly see, the entire wrap required little more than 4" in length to achieve 15 tightly bound loops.

Now, for a step-by-step on a fuel line a little smaller.

First, as the Taurus required 36" of wire, I cut a length a couple of inches over that to give me more room to work the wire ends for the connections. Overall length was ~40". Measuring to ensure I have enough room begins the process.



Then, I started the wrapping procedure. I didn't detail this because I had to wrap with one hand while holding the first contact point while the Super Glue set up (it takes a little longer due to the materials the lines are made of or wrapped in.) After about ten minutes the wrap was complete.



Then, I split the wires to allow for connection. (Best to wrap without the wires exposed to reduce waste..)

Next, strip about a 3/4" off the ends. HINT: When you finish twisting, clip the ends with wire cutters. This allows for better grip of the wire nuts.



And the job was finished! (Pics are limited to 6, so the finish will be in the next post.)

NOTE: In the future, I will glue and then TAPE the first contact wire so I don't have to hold onto it while wrapping! But I'll use a small piece of Duct Tape as it grips WAY better than electrical tape does! (IF you use GOOD TAPE! I do.)

Please post pics of your applications as you do them so we can see not only the proper locations on YOUR vehicle, but also any good (or BAD!) variations you apply.

Ron

The finished job...



Wrapping it with duct tape was the most challenging as you can tell by how sloppy it looks. Maybe getting some ribbed shielding will produce better aesthetics.

Once I took a blow gun from my compressor (and a wipe with a damp cloth-that was easy. It was raining!) and the job was finished (until I get some shielding).



Ron

The white stuff is the baking soda waste from sealing the ends of the wraps.

Ron

Damon Rockwell wrote: I believe that is correct. Just making sure that the ends of each wire gets connected to the opposite end of the parallel wire.
I'm still trying to figure the logic in my own mind how this configuration differs from a single wire wrapped twice as many times about the same tube and having its ends joined.

Damon- there is plenty of explanation to be had if you take to YouTube and search for bifilar coil induction.
Many people connect the outside/long end to an electrical source (AC provides a varying induced field and DC a fixed field effect), but this design seems to rely on the radiant energy of earth’s magnetic field. (Which varies and moves, and I would expect the effect to be most pronounced at/near one of the magnetic poles). These coils are basically compact inductors, which Are simple electronic devices that resonate with the radiant energy. (Another thing to look up on YouTube, electronic inductors). Simple, basic, powerful, misunderstood science. This is why Tesla was a genius - he was experimenting with ways to apply this science for the betterment of mankind. We are trying to apply it to our vehicles here for the same reason: using less fuel, keeping our money in our own pockets and not leaving as big a footprint during our lifetimes on this planet.

On that note, Greg, I went and took a look on YT for Bifilar Coils and saw some interesting stuff.

While the gentleman in this video is about as exciting as watching paint dry, he brings up some interesting points. Especially about the toroidal wave form. (Ever think about the toroidao wave created by something called "The Gadgetman Groove"?)

Compression of the magnetic field occurs in the center of the windings, and a DE-compression on the outside of the ring.

This is relevant to the discussion at hand of imparting a polarized magnetic field into our fuel (and/or the coolant) to see what happens. My next concept is to create a similar coil, and route the charging current from the alternator through it on its way to the battery, and placing this coil around the fuel line. At over 70 amps of current flow potential, it should show some interesting effects on both emissions and combustion.

Well, before you go and do that Ron, I encourage you to also look into induction cooking. 70A flowing around the fuel line may be somewhat overzealous.
What about directing (some of?) that energy at the car’s cooling system, possibly encouraging it to go into closed loop sooner?
I’m also looking at these coils for inclusion on the fuel line prior to the filter - maybe it’ll make the filter more effective? - and then again prior to the rail/injectors.

For everyone's further consideration and understanding:

Inductors

Also, if you haven't scrolled past ("through"-Ron) the Italian section of Ron's original link from the first post, you really should. There is a series of pictures down next to the embedded youtube videos (above "Big Great thanks" in red) that shows someone using crimping butt connectors to join the ends of the wires. If you want to be super secure about it and are going to wrap the whole thing in tape (or shrink wrap), look on YouTube for soldering two wires together - there is a technique for twisting the wire strands together if you're OCD or detail oriented. Wire nuts are quick and easy, but if you want to impress your MIT educated NASA enginerd friends who poke around under your hood, that's the way to go. Maybe Andrew will be so kind as to re-link the video I sent him in another thread, if he's following along here still.

Here's a better one than I found earlier:
Soldering Basics - Popular Solder Connections - YouTube

Gentlemen,
Please be sure to include the wire thickness in GAUGE numbers, as the larger the wire, the lower the resistance and the greater the filed [You mean FIELD, right? -GregK] induced into the fluid stream. In this way, we can gauge our efforts more accurately against yours!

For instance, I just bought some 16 ga. speaker wire at Home Depot-100' for ~$22. MY previous posts mention I was using landscape lighting wire of 12 ga.

Ron

Just saw this thread and this reminds me of a video I saw years ago and tried without success but here it is.



Will post more videos connected to this theory of magnetically charging the coolant for better mileage[/color]

This video I had connected to the first video in my email from 4 years ago.
I guess the premise is the same on these installations.
I tried both with no success so It may be connected to the year/vehicle and OBD.
Would like to have met those who found success with this idea.


With this next video it seems to deviate from the first two
A magnetic charge somehow produces hydrogen inside the engine without any porting to the intake.
Seems like this one is thru osmosis.





I posted these videos because it seemed to be of the same idea as this thread with an electric charge somehow charging the water.

I had done something similarabout 10 years ago on my 76 international with a 446 cu. in engine. I got a 3/4 inch black pipe steel tube about 10 inches long
with the threaded end caps. I then drilled a 3/8 hole in the end caps and put a copper tube in each end and brazed them on..Next I cut a bunch of welding rods ,to pack the tube tight. ( took the flux off first) and installed the end caps and gas lines from the pump to the carburator. I cut the 12 volt wire going to the alternator
Gm10SI . I found some wire the same size as the wire I had cut and wrapped that around the tube lapped it back across the windings and wound another lap a the full lenght of the tube and reconnected the wires.. It took a little longer for the voltage regulator to kick in so I had to rev the engine to get it to charge.
Any way what im getting at is this. in the summer time it would vaporise the fuel about 4 miles down the road at about the same place every time. So I would have to stop and reconnect my fuel lines back up regular way. Just some Experience I had with something similar. Finally had to take it off completely.

Curt- the bifilar coil from the original post at the top of this thread is a passive device meant to resonate using the radiant energy of the earth’s magnetic field and whatever energy is present from the interaction of the fuel passing through the line. I presume that if the liquid fuel is in resonance, it will be easier for injectors to atomize, and engine vacuum to vaporize. Initially, if I’m correct, injector pulse durations will be long, so it would take some time for the computer to trim back.
Your setup was different in that you were inducing a strong magnetic field and cooking the fuel passing through your vessel. You didn’t say it outright, but it sounds like at or around the 4 mile mark with that setup, you vapour locked the engine; by bypassing your inductive fuel cooker, the liquid gasoline allowed the engine to function as designed once again.

Thinking about Curt's design, the welding rods increased the surface area of the fuel passing through the vessel AND made a nice core for the electromagnetic forces to saturate , and by wrapping the entire thing with the alternator wire, he was processing a whole whackload of vapour - liquid fuel didn't have a chance. from there it went straight through the carb's float bowl and jets into the engine. it seems some control on the supply side would've mitigated the problem - a valve to control fuel supply to the vessel he constructed, possibly vacuum regulated, perhaps?