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TOPIC: 2000 Mazda B2500 - First Groove

2000 Mazda B2500 - First Groove 20 Apr 2013 22:25 #1

  • Karl411
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Tried the groove on my 2000 Mazda B2500. Removing the TB was pretty easy compared to what I see in many videos. Did the groove and reconnected. Thinking I did something wrong in the cut since I dont see any real noticeable change in HP or gas mileage. Did it on 4/18 and its now 4/20 and about 200 miles later. Maybe something else like a vacuum leak that was not there before or a bad OS(truck has over 250k miles)may be the cause but at least I thought I would see the HP difference I hear about immediately. The computer may be readjusting to the new air flow but shouldnt the HP be noticed no matter what? Didnt want to call Ron(chatted with him twice so far in the last week)so am posting here to learn from the experienced groovers. B)
Attatched a pic just in case those who are experienced can spot the problem if there is one in the cut. BTW, the TB plate opens on top and this pic is upside down to show cut right under where the plate opens.

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Last edit: by Karl411. Reason: Title Information Details for finding in future searches

First Try At The Groove 20 Apr 2013 23:09 #2

  • dan
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I cant tell from the pics you did groove on intake side not air cleaner side?
If you did was the throttle closed all the way when grooved if so it should have major increase in accel . The only ones ive seen or heard of not doing this there was a major vac leak.

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First Try At The Groove 21 Apr 2013 00:22 #3

  • Karl411
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Air cleaner side? The groove is just inside the intake so the plate opens into the groove. There is about a 1/16th or less space between the plate and the groove in order to get the angle I thought was proper. The idle air hole is shown so that should not be on the cleaner side which I suppose is just before the plate right?
Thanks for the response. So I would venture that if everything I did was proper, a vacuum leak would be the most likely culprit for no noticeable increase in HP and not an OS? A bad OS I am guessing would be the result of no real increase in gas mileage but would not inhibit a noticeable change in HP.
Just trying to trouble shoot through deduction of what I have learned from the forum.

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First Try At The Groove 21 Apr 2013 00:33 #4

  • Karl411
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Just got what you meant from air cleaner side as in the filter side before the throttle.
The groove is past the throttle so the plate opens into the groove.
I did notice a very small tear in the gasket near the bolt and would have changed the gasket if I had bought one prior to taking it apart. Will take it apart and change the gasket but could this very minor tear(1/32" piece missing) really nullify the HP increase in the groove? The gasket is super thin(thinner than a business card) so I was hoping the missing piece would not cause a problem.
If you think the piece missing would be a major cause, will change it tomorrow when I can get to Autozone.
Thanks again for your thoughts.

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First Try At The Groove 21 Apr 2013 04:35 #5

  • dan
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Any vac leak is enhanced after being grooved remember the waveform is changed. Look for bad hoses also cracks etc. Did you plug pcv? If so great check to see if egr is open if its even slightly open when its not suppose to be this will cause less enhanced accel.
That car should leap on take off when all is in good shape,you`ll see what Im talking about when it happens.Cable drives should all have the leap some will be more than others but all should be obvious. Happy grooving.

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First Try At The Groove 21 Apr 2013 08:44 #6

  • Gadgetman
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You had better change that gasket, Karl!

I have successfully run 5.7L engines at an idle with only a 1/8" hole. That is a TREMENDOUS amount of air to pass through such a small hole. The same is true with ANY unattended vacuum leak.

Don't short yourself on this. You may want to run some carb spray around your intake manifold, paying close attention to the area where it joins the head. Leaks there are commonly overlooked.

Please visit and read every post.

If you treat this as what it is, a new technology requiring a good deal of education, you will quickly see the more you learn the greater your success.

That's the way I did it! Only I had to figure all this stuff out and didn't have you guys to lean on!

Ron

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First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 09:39 #7

  • Karl411
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Guess I have my work cut out for me there.
Between cracked hoses and leaky gaskets, there is a whole lot of things that can take some time to find. You've heard of the term "its a jungle out there", well looking at todays engines, its a jungle IN there. Just trying to find my PCV valve is a nightmare so I went on Youtube to see if that helped and it didnt. Spent 2 hours searching online also. Then went to Autozone when I bought the gasket and asked them where the PVC was located on my engine and they didnt have any diagrams on their computer system. Would have thought they would since their business is selling parts for you to replace them so they should be able to know where the part is. Someone suggested a Chiltons manual so I am out to find one for my Mazda b2500 so I can find these parts. Once I do I will work with the PVC and EGR. Did find a video on the EGR and how that can get caked up and affect the engine. Since my TB looked like the bottom of a crusty cast iron pan when I first removed it, I have no doubt other parts have major deposits on them where they shouldn't.
Also notice the idle air off to the left in this pic. Would that nullify the groove wave form and should I do something about it?
Thankfully I have the experience and knowledge of y'all there to direct me.
Am changing the gasket today and the rest will be done when I have the time.

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Last edit: by Karl411. Reason: left out a detail on Autozone not having information about where parts are located on the engine.

First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 12:54 #8

  • Gadgetman
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Hey Karl!

You MUST locate teh PCV valve. I found a vac diagram, but it doesn't show where it's connected, only that it is connected to the intake manifold.

All who read this needs to be aware of wht the PCV system is. I put links to the WIKI article in the hope someone would be able to UNDERSTAND the system first, that they be able to locate them on almost any system.

And if all else fails, Auto Zone has a parts locator in their computer. There are TONS of resources, so how about you all start using them, then sharing your solutions here?

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First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 17:09 #9

  • Karl411
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Found the EGR from pics on Youtube and compared the shape and easily found that close to the TB.
Changed the gasket(that wasnt the issue with no HP increase) and visited another Autozone to find out where the PVC is. This is the second Autozone that stated they have no diagrams on where the PVC is on the Mazda b2500. Just stated that the computer said it was on the engine block. Now how definitive is that? :blink:
Have to buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual since the store was no help.
As soon as I solve this mystery(Youtube and my internet search yielded no results), then I can cap it as suggested.

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First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 18:14 #10

  • Karl411
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Here is a link that I found to explain the location.

Where is the PCV valve on the 2003 ford sport trac? - Answers

Found it with a pic included. Its at the end of the blue
pen under the second plug wire. Cant be removed unless some other objects are removed first.
Buried for sure and it seems an experienced mechanic would have trouble finding it unless he
had consulted some sort of manual.

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Last edit: by Gadgetman.

First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 18:27 #11

  • dan
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You dont need to remove pcv just the vac line always look for vac lines at intake manifold youll

be able to plug intake, who cares where the pcv is. Only the ones that are in the intake you will have to plug the valve the rest just the vac line connection.

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First Try At The Groove 22 Apr 2013 18:42 #12

  • Karl411
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Searching the forums I found this pic of another Mazda TB just like mine that did the PVC hose re-route.
This was the link on the forum and the pic from the re-route he did is attached.
This is the link.


Guess he capped the PVC somehow and took the hose and T'd it into the hose from the TB into the crank case. If this is what I should do, will attempt the same thing.
Just wondering what is the best way to cap the PVC(hope there is no danger in this since the PVC must be there for a reason). Finding a way to T like the pic is no problem to figure something out.
Should I be concerned for that idle air hole next to the groove affecting my performance?
Here is a quote from TracyG from Admim about the Idle air hole effecting the groove.
"If the big square opening at TB base is the Idle Air port, it should help to reduce/relocate that air, as it is hitting the air/wave form that's coming out of the Groove, reducing the Groove's effect." From this post -

Then did some more searching under "index" and under "service bulletins" and found the post where Ron shows an IAC rerouting. Guess will have to do this also sometime since it was stated it does hinder the grooves performance. That may be another reason for no HP.
Thanks again for your input Dan.

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Last edit: by Karl411.
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