TOPIC: 2000 Mazda B2500 - First Groove

The manifold intake is capped with bolt in hose where it connected to PVC.
The PVC is now T'd into the breather with a new hose as in the first picture.
Sprayed carb cleaner twice into the IAC after removing each time.
Made an aluminum gasket with slightly larger than 1/8" holes as in pic two(before) and three(after).







Reinstalled and now Scan Gauge says idle between 1200-1400 rpms when before was 700-900 so I guess one or both holes may be too small because Scan Gauge also giving a P1506 IA code for the "check engine" light.
No increase in HP yet but forgot to ground positive cable before process so maybe needs to reset.
Guess I'm getting closer to finding problem through elimination.

Ok Karl think we're gettin' somewhere!

First pic--if the hose going to right comes from PCV valve, and original PCV hose to manifold vac is plugged TIGHT w/ a bolt; then the PCV re-route is correct. Just remember to pull that hose off TB nipple now and then to check for oil aspiration.

And the IAC restrictor plate ya made looks basically good too. I'd use 2 new IAC mounting gaskets so the plate is sandwiched in between. If no gasket under that plate just bare to throttle body, could cause vac. leak. Remember the IAC and your plate need to seal against manifold vacuum. Increase in idle RPM from before you added plate makes me suspect a manifold vac. leak here.

Thanks for the pics, made things much clearer, Karl!

Tracy G

Hey Karl! Great job on the pics, and on the spacer. I usually make one hole the full size as sometimes it is necessary to enlarge the hole. Being an efficiency NUT, I would rather do a job once...

Don't worry about the idle. That is where the ECU has set its values over time, adapting to the increased sludge build-up on the IAC spindle, requiring application of higher voltage. In a few days it will settle down.

Better to do the ECU reset, as you're going to have a similar issue after. It usually takes only a few starts and idle cycles, and may take a week to settle down. The ECU will take care of that.

As to your code, here's something I stole from a forum when I searched for your error code (You should ALL be doing this and read, read, READ.)
<b>"Common 2.3/2.5 problem.

start the engine, and disconnect the iac. engine should slow or stall. If not, try cleaning.

Take it off, clean with something like B12, install, try again."</b>

One more note: Be sure you use a gasket or gasket sealer on both sides of your new plate and simply drive the beast!

I LOVE this stuff!

Ron

PS: Unplug the IAC valve and start the engine. If the engine idles, then replace your IAC. It's bad. If it fails to run at idle, then it's working. The ECU just has to adapt.

start the engine, and disconnect the iac. engine should slow or stall. If not, try cleaning.

Take it off, clean with something like B12, install, try again."[/i]

Did that and the engine kept running the same way with no difference in idle.


PS: Unplug the IAC valve and start the engine. If the engine idles, then replace your IAC. It's bad. If it fails to run at idle, then it's working. The ECU just has to adapt.


Did that also and the engine still idles so I bought($45) and changed the IAC and put a new gasket on both sides of the homemade restrictor plate. The engine still idles when disconnected with the new IAC so I am guessing the old IAC was not bad or the problem. Finding no difference in how the engine runs with the new IAC connected or disconnected.
Frustrating for sure.

Also after checking the oil dipstick I found a sludge buildup with tiny droplets of water as in the first pic below.








Only noticed this after the restrictor plate was installed since I keep checking my oil level. Just changed the oil(full synthetic) a month or so ago and its darker than I think it should be. Then took the hoses off and found them lined with the same creamy sludge as in the second and third pics below.











The sludge seems to be coming from the crankcase since the hose that was rerouted from the PVC seemed to be clean and the sludge was in the breather hose and into the intake hole of the TB. Also found water in the intake side of the TB as shown in pic 4.










This is not good. What should I do about this? What is the next step to finding a possible vacuum leak? Been searching the forums for hours and it seems like it could be the EGR or Intake gasket. Also on the service bulletin board I saw a post about the groove can cause air to be pulled into the oil on cars 15 years or older from a leaky casket caused by the increase in vacuum.
So I have a few problems here that I am searching for info on.
Thanks again in advance. Me [/color][/b][/color][/b]

How much driving to you do in your truck each time you drive it? I have seen that same kind of sludge but it was from not getting the engine hot enough for long enough. Since then once every two weeks I take a 50-75 mile trip with it and I no longer see that moisture in my oil.

A leaking head gasket will look like antifreeze in your oil.

Ken

Hi Karl. Re: sludge in breather hose into TB, look in Service bulletins in the Index tab top of forum page. There is an article w/ pics/description of how to make an air-oil separator. Some engines aspirate oil/water thru breather hose after PCV re-route. Had same issue on my Subaru the article is one way to solve it.

I agree w/ Ken are you driving short trips is engine warming up? What's weather doing where you are now?

IAC- did you replace or need to replace the TB gasket when TB was re-installed? So when you start it cold, does idle go higher then decrease RPM as normal/before Groove? Or did that all change after Groove? Looking for a pattern here.

Tracy G

Thanks for the reply KGB. Never had it before the mod. I do about 20k miles a year with many 40-50 mile trips.
Also didnt have the sludge in the breather line when I was cutting it for the groove and PVC reroute. My assessment is that modifying it had produced the sludge since never saw it before.

Thanks Tracy. When you said:Some engines aspirate oil/water thru breather hose after PCV re-route. does the same sludge end up in the oil pan because that is where I first found it on the dipstick when I was checking oil level. Then taking the TB apart to put on a new IAC is when I found the rest of the sludge in the lines and water in the TB.
Will look for the article you suggested. Still also trying to find reason for no HP or MPG increase.

Right. One reason for the crud's appearance is that the speed of gases in the re-routed hoses is slower than w/ PCV connected to manifold vac.

We need to remember that the crud you're seeing used to be getting sucked into the intake man. It gets pulled back into intake and engine is forced to act as an Incinerator!

So my thinking is that by incorporating the air-oil separator in the breather hose the crud can be short-stopped from the induction tract, and the entire engine interior crankcase and upper cylinder area will clean out then stay cleaner.

What at first seems a problem is really an opportunity to improve the engine IMHO.

your engine is tryin' hard to teach ya stuff!

I didn't like anything on the market to deal w/ this issue so I came up w/ 2 different ways to fix it. One you buy an AOS and install it like is shown, the other is my home-made version.

It's frustrating to have things rear up like this, but we ARE off the Beaten Path...

Keep at it, Karl, and great pics, BTW!
Tracy G

We need to remember that the crud you're seeing used to be getting sucked into the intake man. It gets pulled back into intake and engine is forced to act as an Incinerator!

So my thinking is that by incorporating the air-oil separator in the breather hose the crud can be short-stopped from the induction tract, and the entire engine interior crankcase and upper cylinder area will clean out then stay cleaner.

What at first seems a problem is really an opportunity to improve the engine IMHO.


Thanks Tracy,
I think I see what you mean by that. If that junk is going into the engine and is not fully combusted, then the residue is leaving deposits somewhere. If I am now seeing what was really hidden before by the original PVC-intake manifold route then having it where it can be accessed and eliminated could be a good thing.
I did go to the Service Bulletin board and saw your device and the two you purchased. Will try to see if I can come up with something similar but cheaper and/or less convoluted.
The device I would prefer is something smaller, simpler and where I can see the contents and remove easier. The device in these next videos seems to be of the same purpose so if it is, I will see if I can find something like this at a plumbing supply or Home Depot.
What would you suggest for the next step in finding the reason for no increase in HP or MPG?





Is this device(mentioned in the next video) what I should be using to separate the sludge from my breather line?

Karl--that gizmo in second vid--

I made /used one of those first. It worked pretty good, but didn't remove that much gunk. and it was a pain to drain crud from. Most those little air compressor filters won't take but like a 3/8" I'D. hose fitting, causing an inline restriction. Not much holding capacity as you can see.

My 2 ideas are from extensive research and searching, I could find nothing that seemed as effective. Most of what's for sale out there are just a container w/ hose fittings relying on passive separation w/o any real active way to clean the blow-by of oil and water vapor. Some use a mini k&N style breather filter those will allow vapor to escape. Open vent like that will kill flow-thru, and those mini K&N filters will pass water in from outside (ever drive in rain?

I like the home-made style I did it will keep system sealing integrity and still filter, w/ huge holding capacity. Downsides are size and drain plug is plastic, limiting heat tolerance.

To me the best design are the European style Air Oil Separators--OEM's came up w/'em. all I do is send bottom drain nipple to closed PVC drain can. These take some time $$ and planning to use. But the 3 I've installed so far work just fine, stand up to underhood environment and dont need frequent draining.

Use whatever works best for you.

Tracy G

Tracy......tried the filter in the pic first since the other ones are not easily accessable for purchase. The one in the video I sent from Husky stops some crud and water but there is still crud in the lines after the filter and still getting in the engine and oil pan as the dipstick still has the crud and water on the shaft... Also the problem I was having with the IAC and the engine idling high with the resistor plate installed is still there.

Here is one problem I am having with the IAC and engine idling at 1600-2000rpms with restrictor plate
Suggested - increase input hole to full size and output to 1/8" ---no change
Suggested - increase output hole bigger-did 3 times to now 3/8"----no change
Suggested - changed IAC for a new one since it was not working ---no change
So I finally got tired of not solving the problem of very high idle so I took the restrictor plate off and now its back to normal 700-800 rpms.

Also looking for the problem for no HP increase after the groove so it was suggested there is a vacuum leak after the TB.
So I bought a can of carb cleaner after going through the can I had and used the whole can looking for leaks on the side after TB on the hoses, intake manifold gasket, etc. and found none. Maybe I didnt hit the right spot or there may not be one. It was suggested that it may be the EGR but searched the web for testing the EGR for leaks(2-3hours) and didnt find a video where I can do this simply while its connected. The only video I saw that could test the EGR is putting a restrictor plate to cover both holes on the EGR made out of aluminum like with the IAC.
Would like to do this but would leaving it there cause problems? Do I really need the EGR for the engine to function properly?

What Is an EGR Vacuum Solenoid? (with picture)

Dont want to buy a new EGR if its not necessary like with the IAC.
Also dont want to regap plugs(or get the torque master plugs like you have)or mess with 02 sensors until I first find the problem with no results in HP.
Could it also be just a bad groove? I read in some of the posts that even if the groove is not a good one that you should still see HP improvement. Am I right on this? According to the Scangauge, I thought the TPS means the throttle plate angle in degrees. Mine says 16(16 degrees?)when on idle. So if I didnt cut the right angle(10-20 degrees) then would that be the HP issue?
Have a couple of people I know keep asking me about my success with the groove. Frustrating to have to keep telling them every week I have a vac leak and cant find it.
Was thinking about taking it to the dealership and see if they can do a vac test somehow so I can find if there is a leak and where.
Any suggestions for the next move?

The issue with your ride is not too LITTLE air getting in, but too MUCH air! This is caused by the IAC Valve. It is not apparent until after The Groove, as you get more power from what's there causing your engine to run faster with the same amount of air/fuel.

So, remove your IAC valve, soak it overnight in a gasoline bath, rinse it with Carb Spray and reinstall. If that doesn't fix it (not bloody likely, mate!) then the IAC will need to be replaced.

You will find it beneficial to clear the ECU when you do this so the ECU can start with a clean slate.

Let me know how this works!

And don't mess with the EGR. You will have to undo the plate if you block that off.