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TOPIC: double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck

double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 14 Aug 2015 13:37 #1

  • Tracy Gallaway
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Karl, I'm starting this new thread to talk about the double Groove TB I did for you for your Mazda truck.

Maybe the high idle issue w/ the double Grooved TB isnt a bad TPS- maybe I did something wrong on this one. I'm not perfect, nobody is... I just went into my pic's on my computer and had another look at the Groove job I did on this TB. I can see both the normal underside Groove and the top side "double" or second Groove, and the IAC restricttion I did.













I remember the TPS screws were stuck buggers. If the TB could be secured like in a vice carefully, the screws could be loosened w/ an old-style impact driver w/ the proper phillips bit in the screws. The kind of impact tool you strike on the end w/ a hammer. I think I may have tried this, but I lacked a proper heavy bench vice to hold it. Tricky business, to break the screws loose without breaking anything else.

what I don't remember and can't see in my pics, is an idle stop screw, it does have one right? Tried adjusting it? I know that will mess up the TPS setting, bringing the TPS screw deal right back... :unsure:

I believe I would have "checked my work" w/ a flashlight. Try shining a flashlight into the bore see how much light shows around the throttle plate, and verify there are no pinholes in the TB from bit breakthrough. If you switched back to your other TB, and the idle RPM issue goes away, then obviously something is wrong w/ this TB. Maybe the two Grooves, and any abrasions on the throttle plate, have increased the amount of air getting 'round the plate at idle. Somehow too much air is entering at base idle throttle position. It WAS more difficult to do the upper Groove in this one, with the deep throttle body casting...

over...

Tracy G
Tracy Gallaway
Founder and Constant Aide to Gadgetman
Gadgetman Reno, NV

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 14 Aug 2015 16:42 #2

  • Karl411
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The TB worked for a while with no issues.
It was around December before Christmas that the idle went nuts. Had it off since January since I had to pass inspection and could not get rid of problem and code so had to wait till I got back to NY to change TB.
Got an IAC code(dont remember #)and replaced IAC with a new autozone one.
Didnt make a difference. The high idle stops only when I smack the TB a few times but next time in neutral or shifting and it comes back.
Read some online about issues with idle being connected to TPS. One was the sensor is not turning smoothly and gets stuck. So tried to remove to see if there is an issue there is how I found the screws too tight to remove.
Dont have an impact tool, just a hammer which I would like to use on the whole truck. :lol:
The plate does stick a little when I go to turn the spring to open but dont know if the old one does the same.
If it was a hole in the area letting too much air in, then why would tapping resolve the issue?
Sounds like its something sticking and tapping resolves that so I am guessing the sensor sticks.

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 14 Aug 2015 23:09 #3

  • Tracy Gallaway
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well, I'd say simply try to replace the TPS. Lotsa parts stores nowdays rent tools or even have loaner program. I think I tried to loosen those screws w/ my hammer-operated impact driver, but while holding the TB. So I couldn't get much of a whack on the screws. I'd shoot 'em w/ Pb Blaster penetrating oil several times, get the thing in a good vice, and use the manual impact driver, trying not to break anything.

Kinda weird it ran OK for a month then went south. that tells me the Grooves and my work musta been OK. I'd check the edge of the throttle plate to see if it's binding though, THAT also could be the issue-- I don't remember if I did throttle plate shaping on this TB, though the upper plate side next to the upper Groove looks shiny in my pics. If it feels at all bind-y when opening/closing then it's a good bet the plate edge has a tiny burr on it, If the dang thing was here I'd have it figured out, and either fixed (Or broke from impacting the TPS screws) in short order. I haven't yet seen a TPS bind or go out to lunch so bad to cause throttle sticking.

Actually this is all part of my evil plan to ruin the world- I'm just sorta slow at it! :evil: :silly: :huh:

Tracy G
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Gadgetman Reno, NV

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 15 Aug 2015 10:51 #4

  • Karl411
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I tried working with the plate to see if there was something sticking when it first started seeing I had to fix it for inspection. Ran some fine sandpaper over it I think but I didnt feel any burs.
Also worked with the idle screw to let it bump the plate so as to not make the throttle plate stick closed.
If I could have removed the TPS I would have checked to see if rotated smoothly as my next course of action in finding the problem.
The TB was a junkyard special($80)from a 2000 Ranger and it did work for a while.
Guess I could deal with the high idle but I do coast much with the stick to save gas, brake and tranny so that is what would bother me when in idle.
At least I have the original to use and not stuck with the issue now.

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 15 Aug 2015 15:14 #5

  • GregK
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That IAC code would've come in handy. Should've tracked that down rather than throwing parts at it; if you still have the old one, put it on the TB and see if you get a code again. Perhaps the code was to trigger an IAC re-calibration.

Another thing to consider, due to issues seemingly being sensor and ECU related, is grounding. Karl lives at or near sea level, miles from a large body of salt water; burnishing those connectors and applying some dielectric might help return accuracy and reliability to the system. Same for chassis grounds...a few ounces of preventative maintenance bringing pounds of cure at the gas pump.

You're right, Karl, TPS and IAC are closely related from the ECU's perspective; if one is bad or off, it will make the readings from the other make no sense to the ECU and funny things will happen. Ford's TPS needs to deliver 0.1-ish VDC to the ECU for closed throttle, which is in the 10% open range; when that's triggered at cold idle (meaning the engine coolant temp sensor hasn't seen whatever temp it needs to trigger closed loop fuel delivery), the IAC opens to some degree to compensate for the fuel being dumped in....thinking about what i just wrote here, how's your ECT sensor's health? not the one wire sending unit that's connected to the temp gauge in your instrument cluster, but the actual 2 wire sensor the ECU uses?

It may not be a maintenance related vacuum leak after all...maybe it's a computer logic issue at play here!

Another thing to consider in tracking down the problem points back to the IAC and its calibration - in these Rangers, I've learned that the MVAC compressor is engaged in most cases, which makes the ECU open the IAC so the engine doesn't bog under the added load. again given your coastal location Karl, is it possible that you're driving around with your heat/defog on? (no doubt you were: you said it was January). No doubt the engine was warm from driving, but was the ECU getting the correct coolant temp info? and further, if it wasn't, was the IAC valve actuating CORRECTLY for conditions and status? again, if ECU doesn't see closed loop/warm idle, that IAC will open (further!) to prevent bogging/stalling...so back to ECT sensor.

Just some second cup of coffee thoughts for you to consider and track down, giving Tracy's work the benefit of the doubt, and possible computer/sensor gremlins to slay! Hamster-wheeling on vacuum wasn't getting you anywhere, so a different approach might help. I really hope this is the right track finally for you Karl, and that you can return to chasing 50+ MPG, zero emissions and a wallet that stays fatter longer! Don't forget your PCV re-route and then moving those spark plug wires around If I'm right...You deserve a eureka moment after all this time.
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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 15 Aug 2015 22:04 #6

  • Tracy Gallaway
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Wow- some beautiful insight there 'dude... :woohoo: I mean I vote to give Heysoundude Dr. status, as in Doctor of Remote Diagnostics. Hey now, Greg, you can start adding letters in Caps after your name, IMHO. Or even give yourself another handle- like Dr Dude. We all and poor Karl have been trying to pin the tail on this Donkey for quite some time now, longer than a lot of major Events in history have taken...

for Gosh sake Karl, locate the 2 wire ECT sensor, and check the connection, maybe clean the terminals on the wooly-bugger. there HAS to be a spec on this sensor, it's going to be a variable resistor across the 2 wires. There has to be spec's on the Ohms reading at different temps-- or maybe, just maybe- the wire plug or even the wires themselves are corroded. Ford has always been pretty good about putting dilectric grease in their electrical plugs to guard against this, but...

This darn Mazda has provided food for thought for me for over 2 years now, or is it 3? And Karl is about ready to blame excess sunlight on Pluto for all the trouble (I'm not far behind) :pinch: Man oh Man, it's a good thing we are working on vehicles and not reactors...I'm spoutin' off here, otherwise un-justifiably, except it has gone on for so long now. Even Ron never suggested THIS idea! :blink: If this isn't it-- well try the trip to Hunza, maybe ( I heard the yaks there prefer a certain Mountain-grown carrot...)

As for myself, well you see, I never got to work at NASA in Mission control, probably a Good Thing. :whistle:

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 15 Aug 2015 22:30 #7

  • Karl411
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Another thing to consider, due to issues seemingly being sensor and ECU related, is grounding. Karl lives at or near sea level, miles from a large body of salt water; burnishing those connectors and applying some dielectric might help return accuracy and reliability to the system.

I did that after trying everything else back in January and found no cure. Even though the wires/connectors were clean, I lubed them anyway.
When I put the old one on when I got back home, it worked fine so that ruled out the connections for me.


Same for chassis grounds...a few ounces of preventative maintenance bringing pounds of cure at the gas pump.

I found one huge ground broken of that connects I believe the engine with the firewall last year. A pretty large flat weaved ground wire and put on a new connector and reattached it to the firewall. Got exited to think this was the problem but between fixing that ground and fixing 4 vacuum leaks I thought "problem solved" but all this fixing did zero to the performance.
To think fixing 4 vacuum leaks did zero, I wonder how can fixing so many leaks not affect performance?
Talk about frustrating!!! :S


.thinking about what i just wrote here, how's your ECT sensor's health? not the one wire sending unit that's connected to the temp gauge in your instrument cluster, but the actual 2 wire sensor the ECU uses?


That I will have to do some Youtube searching on.
The doctor is giving the patient possible causes but the patient is not absorbing the doctors lingo.
Will do some research.

Thanks for the info Dr. Dude :)

Update:
Found the ECT I believe. If we were talking thermostat temps, I monitor this on my Scangauge and its usually 184 plus or minus 4 degrees.
The two sensors look almost the same right next to each other.
Both sensors seem to have good wires and connection after inspection.
Plus, if this wire was the problem, then the problem should still be there when I changed over the TB to the old one. Doing the change solved the problem so the ECT should not be a problem. Pic #1

Did find what looks like a loose ground that has a connector plate that is not connected to a bolt but laying on the base that the bolt connects to but I dont think this is an issue since its still grounded by making contact. The loose ground plate is below the copper tube resting on the base and the bolt where I think it should go is above the tube.
Pic #2

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Last edit: by Karl411.

double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 16 Aug 2015 00:50 #8

  • Tracy Gallaway
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yo Karl! I'd check a wiring diagram to identify that loose wire. color codes should tell the story. caveat: Fords, at least the older ones from the 80's- speaking of emissions controls anyway- and possible corresponding wire harnesses- had MANY different emissions diagrams, to an exasperating degree. When looking at wire diagrams, just be sure you are checking the right one for your exact truck. Often there can be different diagrams, but I would infer the right one by checking for engine size, year, model, and then options etc. Might be differing diagrams for Ford vs. Mazda. If it IS a ground wire, make sure it has a really secure connection, just touching metal isn't good enough. One more thing to look for, is if insulation shrinks back from a wire plug, corrosion can get in the wire. Use Napoleonic Justice, guilty until proved innocent type thinking.

but at the bottom of this-if by replacing the TB from the double Grooved one to the present one- the entire idle RPM issue went away, then obviously it is to do with the double Grooved one. Captain Obvious here- remember I wasn't this old this morning, and I DID just have a b-day!! :lol: It's not early Alzheimers, it's just delayed Learning syndrome, for me,right? :P

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double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck 16 Aug 2015 12:44 #9

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hey, that's perfect; the ECT IS usually right near the thermostat housing.

Don't dismiss the sensor because the wiring and connector look fine, though.

it's a simple swap that doesn't require draining/refilling the cooling system: if your engine is cool and the system is de-pressurized (hint- take the rad cap off), you might "lose" an oz or 2 of coolant at most. the sensor itself is not an expensive part...under $20 i would think. I can look up colour codes for you in my Haynes manual if you want to be 100% sure you're pulling the right one. I would think that it would take ~20 mins, out and in, once you have everything in place.

Grounding- I may have posted this elsewhere on this forum before, but seeing as we're talking about sensors it can't hurt to post this again. what this video suggests is the factory wiring for the grounding system is adequate, but misses a key link for efficient charging and power transfer, and it makes perfect sense to me so I agree with it and suggest anybody with an automobile of any kind consider making the upgrade. as far as our trucks, Karl, I'd re-do the whole scenario entirely with no less than 4 GA wiring, which i believe twice as large as factory, so there should be a gain in efficiency from that somehow. anyway, check this:

Why the Big 3 Wire upgrade should be the Big 4, 1-616-785-7990 - YouTube


EDIT: Karl (and Tracy and whomever else is following along at home), check out what The Ford Ranger 4-Cylinder Motors - The Ranger Station
   

 

 
 

Ford Ranger 4-Cylinder Engines

Trucks Of The Month

Ranger Buyers Guide

       
       
  
 
 

 

These motors are commonly referred to as either the Lima or simply the 2.0, 2.3 or 2.5 OHC (Over Head Cam) engines. They started life based on the German designed 2.0 EAO sport motors that were first introduced to this country in the Mercury Capri’s from the early 1970’s. They share nothing with the 2.3 - 2.5 liter HSC motors that were offered in the passenger car line from 1984 - 1991.

The 2.3 first debuted in the 1974 Pinto using a progressive 2bbl Weber/Holley carburetor and a points distributor. In 1975 they were upgraded to a Duraspark ignition system. They remained unchanged until about 1981 when the intake ports were changed from an oval to a 'D' shape (flat floor). 

The 2.0/2.3 liter versions that were offered in Rangers starting in 1983 used a different head having four evenly spaced round holes of equal size. A 2.0 liter 1bbl carbureted version was offered in Rangers from 1983 - 1985, and in 1987 - 1988 with a 2bbl carburetor in some parts of the US, Canada and Mexico. Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) was added to the engines in 1985. In 1989 the 2.3 was changed to a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) ignition utilizing a new 8-plug head ( 2-plugs per cylinder). This head had larger evenly spaced D-shaped intake ports and was used until the end of production of the 2.5 in 2001. 

The 2.5 liter version was only offered from 1998 To 2001, when the engine was replaced by a 2.3 liter DOHC Duratec based engine. The 2.5 was a stroked (by 7 mm) version of the 2.3 OHC Ford Ranger engine. It also used higher-flow cylinder heads for better intake and combustion. It was replaced in 2001 by the Mazda-derived Duratec 23.

In 1979 - 1981 a high compression draw thru carbureted turbo version of the 2.3 was offered. In 1983 - 1988 a lower compression EFI turbo version was offered in T-birds, Cougars, Mustang SVOs and Merkur XR4Ti’s (through 1989).

Some of the changes to the motor over the years were:

  • Rear main seal changed from a two piece to a one piece design in 1986

  • Roller cams were installed from 1989 on in Rangers and 1991 on in Mustangs

  • Crankshaft main journal sizes were reduced starting in 1988

  • CPS (Cam Position Sensor) was added starting in 1995 (1994 in California). At this time Ford changed to a 104-pin computer (it was a 60-pin) and moved the DIS functions into the computer, previously the DIS system had a TFI module as a separate unit mounted on the front of the intake manifold.

2.0 / 2.3 / 2.5 Specifications

2.0L (1983 - 1988)

Displacement 122 CID
Type Single Over Head Cam
Bore x Stroke 3.52 x 3.13 inches
Compression Ratio 9.0:1
Fuel System Carburetor
Fuel Pressure 5 - 7 psi
Horsepower
73hp @ 4000 RPM (1983 - 1986)
80hp @ 4200 RPM (1987 - 1988)
Torque
107 @ 2400 RPM (1983 - 1986)
106 @ 2600 RPM (1987 - 1988)
Oil Pressure 40 - 60 PSI @ 2000 RPM

Tune Up

Spark Plug AWSF-52C
Spark Plug Gap 0.044 inch
Ignition Timing 6 degrees BTDC (1984 is 8 deg.)
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Distributor Rotation Clockwise

Capacities

Oil Capacity With Filter Change 5 quarts
Cooling System 6.5 quarts

Torque Specifications

Cylinder Head Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)]
Main Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)]
Rod Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (25 - 30 ft-lbs), 2nd (30 - 36 ft-lbs)]
Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 100 - 120 ft-lbs
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts 56 - 64 ft-lbs
Intake Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (14 - 21 ft-lbs)]
Exhaust Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (16 - 23 ft-lbs)]

2.3L (1983 - 1997)

Displacement 140 CID
Type Single Over Head Cam
Bore x Stroke 3.780 x 3.126 inches
Compression Ratio
9.0:1 (1983 - 1988)
9.2:1 (1990 - 1993)
9.4:1 (1994 - 1997)
Fuel System
Carburetor (1983 - 1984)
Multipot Fuel Injection (MFI) (1985 - 1997)
Fuel Pressure
5 - 7 psi (1983 - 1984)
30 - 40 psi (1985 - 1997)
Horsepower
79hp @ 3800 RPM (1983 - 1985) Manual
82hp @ 4200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Auto
90hp @ 4000 RPM (1986 - 1988)
100hp @ 4600 RPM (1989 - 1995)
112hp @ 4800 RPM (1996 - 1997)
Torque
124 @ 2200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Manual
126 @ 2200 RPM (1983 - 1985) Auto
130 @ 1800 RPM (1986 - 1988)
133 @ 2600 RPM (1989 - 1995)
135 @ 2400 RPM (1996 - 1997)
Oil Pressure 40 - 60 psi @ 2000 RPM

Tune Up

Spark Plug
AWSF-44C (1984 - 1990)
AWSR-32PP (1993 - 1995)
AWSR-32F (1996 - 1997)
Spark Plug Gap 0.044
Ignition Timing 10 degrees BTDC
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Distributor Rotation Clockwise

Capacities

Oil Capacity With Filter Change 5 Quarts
Cooling System (Quarts) W/AC- 7.2 /  W/O AC 6.5

Torque Specifications

Cylinder Head
Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)] (1989 - 1995)
51 ft-lbs (1996 - 1997)
Main Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (50 - 60 ft-lbs), 2nd (80 - 90 ft-lbs)]
Rod Bearing Bolts Torque in 2 steps [1st (25 - 30 ft-lbs), 2nd (30 - 36 ft-lbs)]
Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 100 - 120 ft-lbs
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts 56 - 64 ft-lbs
Intake Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (14 - 21 ft-lbs)]
Exhaust Manifold Torque in 2 steps [1st (5 - 7 ft-lbs), 2nd (16 - 23 ft-lbs)]

2.5L MFI (1998 - 2001)

Displacement 152 CID
Type Single Over Head Cam
Bore x Stroke 3.780 x 3.401 inches
Compression Ratio 9.1:1
Fuel System MFI (Multiport Fuel Injection)
Fuel Pressure 56 - 72 psi
Horsepower
117hp @ 4500 RPM (1998 - 1999)
119hp @ 5000 RPM (2000 - 2001)
Torque
149ft-lbs @ 2500 RPM (1998 - 1999)
146ft-lbs. @ 3000 RPM (2000 - 2001)
Oil Pressure 40 - 60 psi @ 2000 RPM

Tune Up

Spark Plug SP-432
Spark Plug Gap 0.044 inch
Firing Order 1-3-4-2

Capacities

Oil Capacity With Filter Change 4.5 Quarts
Cooling System (Quarts) W/AC- 7.2 /  W/O AC 6.5

Torque Specifications

Cylinder Head 51 ft-lbs
Main Bearing Bolts 75 - 85 ft-lbs
Rod Bearing Bolts 30 - 36 ft-lbs
Crankshaft Pulley Bolts 103 - 133 ft-lbs
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts 56 - 64 ft-lbs
Intake Manifold 19 - 28 ft-lbs
Exhaust Manifold 14 - 21 ft-lbs

2.3L Duratec (2002-2011)

Displacement 140 CID
Type Dual Over Head Cam
Bore x Stroke 3.445 x 3.7010 inches 
Compression Ratio 9.7:1
Fuel System Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection — Four Port-Mounted Fuel Injectors Electronically Triggered By EEC-V Module
Fuel Pressure 60-65 psi
Horsepower 135 @ 5050 (2002)

143 @ 5250 (2003-2011)

Torque 153 @ 3750 (2002)

154 @ 3750 (2003-2011)

Oil Pressure 55 psi @ 6000 rpm

Tune Up

Spark Plug SP-439
Spark Plug Gap 0.044 inch
Firing Order 1-3-4-2

Capacities

Oil Capacity With Filter Change 4 Quarts
Cooling System (Quarts) W/AC- 7.2 /  W/O AC 6.5

Torque Specifications

Cylinder Head Stage 1: 44 in-lbs

Stage 2: 132 in -lbs

Stage 3: 33 ft-lbs

Stage 4: Rotate 90 degrees (1/4 turn)

Stage 5: Angle tighten 90 degrees

Main Caps 32 ft-lbs and then rotate 180 degrees
Connecting Rod Caps 21 ft-lbs and then rotate 90 degrees
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts Stage 1: 37 ft-lbs

Stage 2: 59 ft-lbs

Stage 3: 83 ft-lbs

Intake Manifold 156 in-lbs
Exhaust Manifold 40 ft-lbs
 

Firing Orders:

2.0L and 1983 - 1988 2.3L Engines

Firing Order: 1-3-4-2

Distributor Rotation: Clockwise

1989–1997 2.3L / 2002-2011 2.3L Duratec / 1998-2001 2.5L Engines

Firing Order: 1–3–4–2

Distributorless Ignition

 

Differences between major engine parts are as follows:

Blocks:

The 2.0 is an underbored 2.3.  With the exception of the bore, the blocks are identical to all 2.3’s

1975 - 1988 2.3’s are interchangeable

1989 - 1994 2.3's are the same as the 1983 - 1988 2.3’s but have a smaller main journal saddle.  The oil pan seal surface was changed in 1987 to eliminate the (4) piece seal and holes were added in the front to bolt on the DIS’s crank trigger assembly.

1995 - 2001's are similar to the 1989 - 1995’s but a Cam Position Sensor was added behind the aux sprocket. The hole for the distributor was eliminated and the oil pump was moved in place of the aux. shaft itself.

Turbo blocks are identical to the 1983 - 1988 Ranger blocks but have an additional boss with a hole threaded in the passenger side about ½ way back that provides a place to drain the lubricating oil back into the engine from the turbo.

Cranks:

2.0 and early 2.3 cranks are identical.

Late 2.3 cranks have smaller main journals.

2.5 cranks are identical to 2.3’s except they have a longer stroke.

Rods:

2.0 and 2.3 (including turbo) rods are identical up through at least 1994. In fact they still have the original D4 (’74) casting number on them.

Pistons:

The 2.0 pistons are unique and don’t interchange.

The 2.3 pistons are all the same excluding the turbo versions which were forged. Low compression (8.0:1) in the 1983 - 1888’s and high compression (9.0:1) in the 1979 - 1981’s.

The 2.5 pistons are similar to the 2.3’s but have a different wrist pin height.

Heads: 

All 2.0/2.3/2.5 heads will physically bolt in place of each other.  They all have similar exhaust port shape and placement. All cams are interchangeable as long as they are used with the proper followers. Later model (1995 and newer) roller cam followers cannot be easily swapped onto an older head as the valve stem size was reduced in the newer heads and matching slot in the follower was reduced. Early 2.0 and 2.3 heads have the same small round intake ports spaced evenly apart. They differ from each other in their valve sizes though.

Head Variations:

There are several variations on the 2.3 heads though they break down into (4) distinct types:

1) Passenger car oval port heads - 1974 - 1980 Mustang, Pinto, Fairmont, Bobcat, etc.

2) Passenger car D-port head - 1981 - 1995? T-bird, Mustang, Etc.

3) Truck round port - 1983 - 1985 Ranger

4) Truck D-port - 1989 - 2001 Ranger. The 1989 - 1994's and 1995 - 2001's have different combustion chambers and ports. It is thought that the newer head is better designed.

Part Numbers:

The following parts and information are from the Federal Mogul website.  The part numbers are theirs and are Sealed Power numbers.  Those in parenthesis are: FP = Fel-Pro, FM = Federal Mogul

Cylinder Head

Part Years Covered Part Number
Head Bolts 83-01 ES72137 (FP)
Exhaust Valve (1.500” head, .3414” stem dia, 4.792” OAL) 83-94 V3943
Exhaust Valve (1.500” head, .2740” stem dia, 4.8070” OAL) 95-01 V4553
Intake Valve (1.735” head, .3419” stem dia, 4.787” OAL) 83-94 V2170
Intake Valve (1.735” head, .2750” stem dia, 4.787” OAL) 95-01 V4488
Valve Guide (.3440 ID, 2.1880” OAL-spiral reamed & flg) 83-94 VG1372
Valve Guide (Threaded, .2765” ID, 1.9300” OAL) 95-97 VG1389T
Valve Spring (1.9800” free height w/ damper) 83-94 VS1459
Valve Spring (2.0197” free height) 95-01 VS1647
Valve Keeper/Lock 83-94 VK205
Valve Keeper/Lock (Hard) 83-94 VK205R
Valve Keeper/Lock 95-01 VK287
Valve Spring Insert [(shims) (A=.060” B=.030” C=.015”) 83-94 259-102A or B or C

Engine

Part Years Covered Part Number
Connecting Rods (Forging #D42E-AA) 1974 - 1997 R25BJ (FM)
Pistons - 2.3L (2-2.00mm/1-4.76mm rings, Comp Dist:1.578”. Pin Dia: .9122”
8.7:1 Comp Ratio, Flat Head- w/2 Valve Reliefs)
1977 - 1991 H435P
Pistons - 2.3L (2-1.5mm/1-4.00mm rings, Comp Dist: 1.575”, Pin Dia: .9122”
Flat Head- w/2 Valve Reliefs)
1983 - 1994 H537P
Pistons - 2.3L (2-1.5mm/1-4.00mm rings, Comp Dist: 1.578”, Pin Dia: .9122”
8.7:1 Comp Ratio, Flat Head- w/2 Valve Reliefs)
1982 - 1989 495P
Pistons - 2.3? (2-1.5mm/1-3.00mm rings, Comp Dist: 1.335”, Pin Dia: .9122”
Flat Head- w/2 Valve Reliefs)
1995 - 1997 H676P
Oil Pump (4/8/85 and older) (Not For Use w/ Cast Aluminum Oil Pan) 1980 - 1985 224-41160
Oil Pump High Volume (Not For Use w/ Cast Aluminum Oil Pan) 1980 - 1995 224-41160V
Oil Pump (4/9/85 and newer) 1986 - 1994 224-41127
Oil Pump Shaft 1980 - 1994 224-61160
Oil pump screen 1977 - 1985 224-12160
Oil pump screen 1986 - 1994 224-13160

Performance Parts:

If you're looking for performance parts, you should check out these sites:

Esslinger Engineering 

They have been a dominating force in four-cylinder Ford performance products for over thirty years. They produce engines and products that have powered everything from off-road trucks and midgets to ministocks and hydro-planes. Along the way, they have helped customers achieve countless wins and championships. They specialize in single overhead cam 2.3 and 2.0 liter Ford engines. They provide hundreds of performance products, including complete engines, short blocks, Aluminum cylinder heads, pulley kits, oil pans, carburetors, manifolds, crankshafts, cams, distributors and almost everything imaginable.

Camcraft

They have a selection of cams for most engines found in the Ford Ranger & Bronco vehicles including the 2.0 and 2.3.

Race Engineering

Race Engineering specializes in racing and high-performance internal engine parts. They specialize in forged pistons, forged connecting rods, billet connecting rods, crankshafts, piston rings, gaskets, MLS gaskets, race bearings, camshafts, valves and valve train components.  Balanced rotating assemblies are carefully engineered for most all engines. We have developed a series of assemblies (including strokers) for 4 cylinder Ford motors (2.3, 2.5 & stroker Ford 4 cylinders for oval track/mini stock).

Racer Walsh

Racer Walsh carries numerous 2.0 and 2.3 parts.

NeedHP.com

Check them out for a variety of Ford 4-cylinder parts.

Kurtz Kustomz

Kurtz Kustomz carries the True-Rev Max Induction kit which allows your engine to breathe more air by eliminating all of the power robbing restrictions associated with the stock system, resulting in more horsepower, better low end torque, crisp throttle response, and overall increased efficiency. This is a complete bolt-on kit that replaces your stock airbox assembly.

Speedwaymotors.com

Speedway Motors carries Ford 4-cylinder parts.

Modifications:

Air Muffler:

Start off with an improved air intake to let the engine breath better.  Below left you can see the Air Muffler and the baffle. The air muffler (on the left) goes between the air cleaner and the throttle body. The baffle to the right of it comes off the front of the air cleaner inside the body of your Ranger above the wheel well.  As you can see in the picture below right, the air muffler was replaced with a piece of stainless but you can use PVC pipe. This will allow more air flow into your motor, increase HP, and make your motor a little bit louder. Your air cleaner is in two (2) parts; air cleaner canister, and mass air flow sensor. Open your air cleaner and remove the air filter, then unbolt the can in which the filter was in, when you pull the can off, the baffle will be attached to it. Remove the baffle, and reinstall the air cleaner. This will add more air flow, HP, and sound to your Ranger.

 

Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.

Connect to the Internet if you can't see this image.


Replacement Air Intake:

K&N offers an AirCharger replacement air intake for 1995+ 2.3 Rangers

Porting:

Port your upper and lower intake.  The intakes don't line up diameter to diameter.  Porting opens this up and allows better flow.  Knife edge the intake side of the throttle body to remove the front lip.  You can use a Dremel tool to grind, sand and buff this area to obtain a smooth airflow in to the engine.  You can also mill down the butterfly to blend in to the shaft for a smoother air flow.

For details on how to port your heads, click HERE

Ignition:

Accel - Makes a coil pack for 1998 - 1999 Ford 4-cylinder.  For more information click HERE.

MSD - Manufactures a DIS ignition system along with wiring harnesses.  Find their parts at Summit Racing.

JetChip - Makes a module to reprogram the engines computer. Click HERE 

Exhaust:

Pacesetter offers headers for the 2.3 HEREDynomax and Gibson make cat-back exhaust systems for the Ranger.

Turbos:

You can swap in a turbocharged 4-cylinder instead of trying to adapt a turbo to your engine.  For info on turbo engines see Turbos.  For info on the swap look HERE.

Better Gearing:

If our looking for more low end torque, upgrade your rear gears to a lower (numerically higher) ratio.

Electric Fan:

Flex-A-Lite makes a replacement fan for the Ranger so you can replace your clutch driven fan to reduce drag on the engine.

What Others Have Done:

'Odysseus' - I recently had some trouble with the truck bucking sporadically, or when it rained. The EGR valve was sticking. I removed the hose that comes out from the fuel injector to the valve and plugged it with an ink pen. Cleared it right up. I actually noticed it has a little more power too. Just trying to save you guys some trouble.

 

footer</a> says under Porting, almost all the way down the page; it might be another factor in not realizing gains post-groove (the airflow/waveform/turbulence is disturbed). It's also recommended for the 3.0 V6 that I have, but it's probably solid advice for any engine to have done to correct for differences between design and manufacture.<br /> <br /> <b>EDIT 2:</b>Karl, I found <a href="http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-45908.html" class="bbcode_url" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"> Ping, surging, revving? | The Ranger Station</a> in the archives of the last site for you. It has some resistance specs for you that shouldn't be too far off for your engine. Since you're gonna have to re-set the ECU anyways, I'd put the grooved TB back on while you're under there, re-route the PCV the way it needs to be to work with the groove, and then do the plug wire re-jig. If this isn't it, I found another thread that suggest a look at the EGR valve...which leads us back to vacuum HA! </div> </div> <div class="kmsgsignature"> <div>Greg Kusiak<br /> Most Active Member<br /> Audiophile</div> </div> <div class="kmessage-thankyou"> The following user(s) said Thank You: <span class="kwho-admin hasTooltip">Tracy Gallaway</span> </div> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="kbuttonbar-left"> <p>Please <a class="btn-link" href="/login?return=aHR0cHM6Ly9tZW1iZXJzLmdhZGdldG1hbmdyb292ZS5jb20vZm9ydW1zL290aGVyLXN0dWZmLzM1NjQtZG91YmxlLWdyb292ZS10Yi1vbi1rYXJsLXMtbWF6ZGEtZm9yZC10cnVjaz9zdGFydD0w" rel="nofollow">Log in</a> to join the conversation.</p><div class="kmessage-editmarkup-cover hidden-phone"> <span class="kmessage-editmarkup hidden-phone"> Last edit: by <span class="kwho-user hasTooltip">GregK</span>. Reason: more and more info </span> </div> <div class="kmessage-buttons-cover"> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> </div> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> <div class="kcontainer"> <div class="kbody"> <div class="kmsg-header kmsg-header-left"> <h2> <span class="kmsgtitle kmsg-title-left"> double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck </span> <span class="kmsgdate kmsgdate-left" title="16 Aug 2015 13:50"> 16 Aug 2015 13:50 </span> <span class="kmsg-id-left"> <a href="#6007" id="6007" rel="canonical">#10</a> </span> </h2> </div> <table class="kmsg kpublished"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="kprofile-left" rowspan="2"> <ul class="kpost-profile"> <li class="kpost-username"> <strong><span class="kwho-user hasTooltip">GregK</span></strong> </li> <li> <a href="" data-toggle="tooltip" title="" class="label label-default "> Offline</a> </li> <li> Friends of Gadgetman </li> <li> <img src="/media/kunena/ranks/rank6.gif" height="16" width="70" alt="Friends of Gadgetman" /> </li> <li> Posts: 1283 </li> <li> Karma: 114 </li> <li> Thank you received: 652 </li> <li> <span class="kicon-profile kicon-profile-gender-male" data-toggle="tooltip" data-placement="right" title="Gender: Male"></span> </li> <li> </li> <li> <span data-toggle="tooltip" data-placement="right" title="Click here to send a private message to this user." ></span> </li> </ul> </td> <td class="kmessage-left"> <div class="kmsgbody"> <div class="kmsgtex"> And one more, a bit easier to read/follow:<br /> <a href="http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75481" class="bbcode_url" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"> coolant temp sensor, sender questions | The Ranger Station</a> </div> </div> <div class="kmsgsignature"> <div>Greg Kusiak<br /> Most Active Member<br /> Audiophile</div> </div> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="kbuttonbar-left"> <p>Please <a class="btn-link" href="/login?return=aHR0cHM6Ly9tZW1iZXJzLmdhZGdldG1hbmdyb292ZS5jb20vZm9ydW1zL290aGVyLXN0dWZmLzM1NjQtZG91YmxlLWdyb292ZS10Yi1vbi1rYXJsLXMtbWF6ZGEtZm9yZC10cnVjaz9zdGFydD0w" rel="nofollow">Log in</a> to join the conversation.</p><div class="kmessage-editmarkup-cover hidden-phone"> </div> <div class="kmessage-buttons-cover"> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> </div> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> <div class="kcontainer"> <div class="kbody"> <div class="kmsg-header kmsg-header-left"> <h2> <span class="kmsgtitle kmsg-title-left"> double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck </span> <span class="kmsgdate kmsgdate-left" title="22 Aug 2015 13:09"> 22 Aug 2015 13:09 </span> <span class="kmsg-id-left"> <a href="#6018" id="6018" rel="canonical">#11</a> </span> </h2> </div> <table class="kmsg kpublished"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="kprofile-left" rowspan="2"> <ul class="kpost-profile"> <li class="kpost-username"> <strong><span class="kwho-user hasTooltip">GregK</span></strong> </li> <li> <a href="" data-toggle="tooltip" title="" class="label label-default "> Offline</a> </li> <li> Friends of Gadgetman </li> <li> <img src="/media/kunena/ranks/rank6.gif" height="16" width="70" alt="Friends of Gadgetman" /> </li> <li> Posts: 1283 </li> <li> Karma: 114 </li> <li> Thank you received: 652 </li> <li> <span class="kicon-profile kicon-profile-gender-male" data-toggle="tooltip" data-placement="right" title="Gender: Male"></span> </li> <li> </li> <li> <span data-toggle="tooltip" data-placement="right" title="Click here to send a private message to this user." ></span> </li> </ul> </td> <td class="kmessage-left"> <div class="kmsgbody"> <div class="kmsgtex"> So Karl, any update? I'm going a bit crazy waiting to see if this could be the solution for you. (hopefully you're out establishing new mileage benchmarks with your grooved TB) </div> </div> <div class="kmsgsignature"> <div>Greg Kusiak<br /> Most Active Member<br /> Audiophile</div> </div> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="kbuttonbar-left"> <p>Please <a class="btn-link" href="/login?return=aHR0cHM6Ly9tZW1iZXJzLmdhZGdldG1hbmdyb292ZS5jb20vZm9ydW1zL290aGVyLXN0dWZmLzM1NjQtZG91YmxlLWdyb292ZS10Yi1vbi1rYXJsLXMtbWF6ZGEtZm9yZC10cnVjaz9zdGFydD0w" rel="nofollow">Log in</a> to join the conversation.</p><div class="kmessage-editmarkup-cover hidden-phone"> </div> <div class="kmessage-buttons-cover"> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> </div> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> <div class="kcontainer"> <div class="kbody"> <div class="kmsg-header kmsg-header-left"> <h2> <span class="kmsgtitle kmsg-title-left"> double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck </span> <span class="kmsgdate kmsgdate-left" title="02 Sep 2015 21:34"> 02 Sep 2015 21:34 </span> <span class="kmsg-id-left"> <a href="#6058" id="6058" rel="canonical">#12</a> </span> </h2> </div> <table class="kmsg kpublished"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="kprofile-left" rowspan="2"> <ul class="kpost-profile"> <li class="kpost-username"> <strong><span class="kwho-guest hasTooltip">Karl411</span></strong> </li> <li> Visitor </li> <li> <img src="/media/kunena/ranks/rank0.gif" height="16" width="70" alt="Visitor" /> </li> </td> <td class="kmessage-left"> <div class="kmsgbody"> <div class="kmsgtex"> <span style="color:#000044;">Still haven't changed the TPS since time and other things like finding a vac leak.<br /> Have the gauge reading 0-10 STFT and 25 LTFT so something is leaking somewhere.<br /> Did the old brake cleaner everywhere I know with no results. Even the HCS is not giving any results lately and I can only surmise a vac leak is part/all of the problem.<br /> Amazing though how I can take out a vac hose where I can feel the vacuum on the hose coming from the intake manifold(with a valve on it just letting in 20% of total vacuum from manifold) and it doesn't register any larger numbers on the STFT or make the engine to stumble.<br /> You would think that letting in that much air would register at least but not according to the gauge. I have an 02 extender on my upstream sensor that is not seated correctly and wonder if that is messing with the LTFT numbers. Have it wrapped with foil and fiberglass to seal until I can remove it.<br /> So until I find the reason for the large LTFT numbers, I will not mess with the TPS. Finding the leak is much more pressing.<br /> PS...I can also smell my exhaust, not as clean as before. Must be the unburned fuel being dumped into the cylinders due to the leak.</span> </div> </div> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="kbuttonbar-left"> <p>Please <a class="btn-link" href="/login?return=aHR0cHM6Ly9tZW1iZXJzLmdhZGdldG1hbmdyb292ZS5jb20vZm9ydW1zL290aGVyLXN0dWZmLzM1NjQtZG91YmxlLWdyb292ZS10Yi1vbi1rYXJsLXMtbWF6ZGEtZm9yZC10cnVjaz9zdGFydD0w" rel="nofollow">Log in</a> to join the conversation.</p><div class="kmessage-editmarkup-cover hidden-phone"> <span class="kmessage-editmarkup hidden-phone"> Last edit: by <span class="kwho-guest hasTooltip">Karl411</span>. </span> </div> <div class="kmessage-buttons-cover"> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> </div> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> </div> <div class="ktopactions"> <table id="topic-actions"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="klist-actions-goto"> <a id="forumtop"> </a> <a href="#forumbottom"> <span class="kicon kforumtop"></span> </a></td> <td class="klist-actions-forum"> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> <div class="kmessage-buttons-row"> </div> </td> <td class="klist-pages-all"> <ul class="kpagination"> <li class="page">Page:</li><li><span class="pagenav">1</span></li><li><a href="/forums/other-stuff/3564-double-groove-tb-on-karl-s-mazda-ford-truck?start=12" title="2">2</a></li><li><a href="/forums/other-stuff/3564-double-groove-tb-on-karl-s-mazda-ford-truck?start=24" title="3">3</a></li><li><a href="/forums/other-stuff/3564-double-groove-tb-on-karl-s-mazda-ford-truck?start=36" title="4">4</a></li></ul> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> <form action="/forums" id="jumpto" name="jumpto" method="post" target="_self"> <input type="hidden" name="view" value="category"/> <input type="hidden" name="task" value="jump"/> <span class="kright"><select name="catid" id="catid" class="inputbox fbs" size="1" onchange = "this.form.submit()"><option value="0">Board Categories</option> <option value="1" selected="selected"> Main Forum</option> <option value="4">- Automotive</option> <option value="5">- - Ford</option> <option value="6">- - General Motors</option> <option value="7">- - Dodge</option> <option value="8">- - Foreign Manufactured</option> <option value="19">- - Performance and Mileage Reports</option> <option value="11">- - Carbureted Vehicles</option> <option value="2">- Welcome Mat</option> <option value="12">- Personal License Pilot Program</option> <option value="9">- Off-Road Applications</option> <option value="10">- Service Bulletins</option> <option value="14">- Brotherly Love</option> <option value="15">- Other Stuff</option> <option value="20">- - Groovy Questions and Other Stuff</option> <option value="22">- - Trial and Error-How we learn!</option> <option value="16">- Diagnostics</option> <option value="17">- Tools of The Trade</option> <option value="25">- Open Discussions</option> </select></span> </form> <div class="pull-right"></div> <div class="clearfix"></div> <div class="kblock kpathway breadcrumbs-2"> <div class="kcontainer"> <div class="ksectionbody"> <div class = "kforum-pathway"> <div class="path-element-first"><a href="index.php?option=com_kunena&view=home&defaultmenu=2413&Itemid=2408">Forums</a></div> <div class="path-element"><a href="index.php?option=com_kunena&view=category&catid=1&Itemid=2408">Main Forum</a></div> <div class="path-element"><a href="index.php?option=com_kunena&view=category&catid=15&Itemid=2408">Other Stuff</a></div> <div class="path-element"><a href="index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=15&id=3564&Itemid=2408">double Groove TB on Karl's Mazda/Ford truck</a></div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="pull-right large-kicon"><a rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml" href="/forum/topics/mode-topics?format=feed&type=rss"><i class="icon icon-feed hasTooltip" title="Get the latest posts directly to your desktop" aria-hidden="true"></i></a></div> <div class="clearfix"></div> </div> <div style="text-align:center;"><a href="/forums/credits" style="display: inline !important; visibility: visible !important; text-decoration: none !important;">Powered by</a> <a href="https://www.kunena.org" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer" style="display: inline !important; visibility: visible !important; text-decoration: none !important;">Kunena Forum</a></div> <div class="clearfix"></div> <!-- End Content --> </main> </div> </div> </div> <!-- Footer --> <footer class="footer" role="contentinfo"> <div class="container-fluid"> <hr /> <p class="pull-right"> <a href="#top" id="back-top"> Back to Top </a> </p> <p> © 2024 Gadgetman Groove </p> </div> </footer> </body> </html>