TOPIC: Hi Everyone!!!!! Love the forum-Want to start grooving!!!!!!

Throttle Body.......






Pretty standard if you ask me.

Next PCV

Compression Ratio 9.5 : 1

Now for the PCV Valve......





There are 2 Breather holes on the tappet cover with the PCV Valve on the back hole.

My thinking is to do the following



So just bring the PCV Valve hose to the front hose and connect. And then block off the connection that goes in under the throttle body.

Your inputs Please?

What I am worried about is all the kind of censors I see just above the air filter way before the throttle body.



I suppose I don't need to be bothered by those as it is before the throttle body and wont influence the vacuum.

What are they and what do they do?

Lastly-Ha Ha. Lots to say..... Please be patient with me.....

What is that little vacuum hose going from the intake manifold to the fuel injection system?

Would it influence the vacuum negatively?

This is the MAF, Mass AirFlow sensor, which may include the IAT, Intake Air Temperature sensor. These sensors monitor the volume and temperature (density really) of air for fuel delivery at 14.7:1. In combination with the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor on the side of your Throttle body, these sensors and all help the computer determine how much fuel the engine "needs" - and there are others as well, possibly, like a MAP, the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor.
(Sorry I couldn't ride shotgun on your adventure - a guy needs a few hours sleep every so often, you know?)
I'll have a better look at these photos from my computer in a few hours - the screen of my phone just isnt big enough.

Greg....

I appreciate the interest.

Thank you. Talk to you later.

Hi Martin glad Collette and you made contact, excellent! (visual- the Mad Scientist Mechanic rubs his hands with evil Glee)...

The small vacuum hose from intake to fuel rail- that's the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator, definitely leave it alone, just ensure it and ALL ( I emphasize ALL) vacuum hoses connecting to Manifold Vacuum are intact, not brittle or cracked, replace/fix as necessary. Now is a Good time, Martin, for you to closely inspect for vacuum leaks. ANY manifold vac. leak is the Enemy of the Groove. Ten foot tall Letters on that one!!

WOW, no Oxygen sensors?? Gawd, I haven't seen anything sold in the USA in 30 years that didn't have at least one O2 sensor! The exhaust man., it looks like bosses cast into it down low just above the ex. pipe connection, might have been provision for an O2 there. I've never even heard of anything w/ a computer in it, carb., or injected, without an O2 in it...? No catalytic converter, just a muffler? woah...!

I've seen your great pics, I see no cat or O2 anyplace, not to belabor the point, but you've literally looked at the entire deal front to back?

It DOES have a computer, right? I mean, Volkswagen had mechanical fuel inj. on Rabbits back in the late 70's early 80's, but all else I know of has an ECU (computer), O2 sensor(s) and at least one Catalytic converter. With no cat or O2, you are on Easy Street Martin. Do they even do Smog Tests there?

Greg's right, the box on the air duct before the TB is a MAF, Mass Air Flow sensor, and it may have an air temp sensor in it too. I'm still tryin' to figure out what kind of setup this is w/ no O2's...
It's like the ECU is doing calculations on the Input side, w/ nothing on the Output side.

Sorry, what year is this truck again? What make? I wonder what big car co, made it?

OK enough for this moment, Trick or Treeters will be showing up soon. I'll have more to say re: Ignition for ya, Martin. Last thing, start using the Nose Exhaust tester, cup your hand at tailpipe w/ warmed-up engine, smell it and see how moist it feels, do this now, to get a sort of nose Baseline for the truck.

I wonder how many vehicles like this there are in SA....?? wow

Tracy G

Tracy.

Computer



This is what I presume must be the computer.
This is a 2000i Mitsubishi Colt. The year model is 2006.

You are right no smog tests on our vehicles here. I don't even know of any law regarding smog tests here.

I did check vacuum leaks and everything seems fine. I will go through it again soon.

These trucks where sold by the dozen here. I am sure only the most modern cars in SA are up to standard regarding smog tests and so on.

Gaw-leee a 2006 Mitsu truck, 2 liters 9.5 to 1 squeeze ratio 16 valves fuel injection, a compewtur...and No Smog checks, no O2's and no cat. converter. A LOT of folks would LOVE to have THAT setup Martin!! And- I bet it has very good Power already...? This to me , is like a pretty modern engine/fuel system, but in the 1970's here! Oh to have a Plaything like this in your situation.... And maybe- you folks in SA have cleaner Gas than us too, less alcohol, maybe fewer anti-vaporization additives to cause gum, varnish and Carbon.....

We have at least one Member here who would probably SWIM to SA just to get his mitts on your truck or an identical one combined w/ the rest of the Situation...( Hey Karl you readin' this--you see what I see w/ that Exhaust Manifold?) Karl will likely consider an Amphibious Conversion kit to add to his Mazda to drive to SA, then you can help him find another Truck like yours, Martin...! I just looked closer at the pics again--you guys in SA drive on the Wrong side of the Road!!

OK- you have the PCV re-route figured right, just tee the PCV valve hose into that small Breather hose as you said. You might use a short section of clear vinyl or similar hose at the end of PCV hose at the tee connection you install. This is to watch for oil aspiration. If this proves to be an issue, we have the fix for it, or at least a way to manage it. (Air/oil separator, catch can/bottle)

It's an '06 model, is there a data plug anyplace to plug in a scan tool? In USA we have the OBDII plug to connect scan tool as standard since '96. Yours looks a LOT like stuff from late 80's here. Obviously much looser emissions regs over there. Good news for you, Martin is this truck and all similar- likely may have "loose" parameters for the ECU, meaning the Groove should work Very Well. Not such a fussy computer acting as Nanny about everything. See if you can find out what is done to "get the Codes" out of the computer, this will tell us a lot about the system. Older pre-'96 cars trucks here, all were different as to computer code access, all were standardized in '96 to the OBDII standards. Older cars here pre-96, typically you connected this plug to that wire, etc.,and watched a light on the dash or the ECU itself flash a sequence to give codes to diagnose emission system and other system problems. So- the way the codes in this truck are accessed, and how extensive the list of codes is, will say a Bunch! If, you could actually get a copy of the codes list, and the instructions to access them, and scan or take pics, and upload here, it would be a great clue. IF you are unfamiliar w/ this, try looking in a book at a parts store, or a library Reference section. Come to think of it, it's probably online. Last resort is ask at a repair shop.

That spark plug looked pretty clean, it looks like it might be a bit lean, the ceramic looks white. Your new gap looks kinda big, it probably does arc down the side of the ground electrode. I can go on at legnth re: Ignition. If you have digital Volt-Ohm meter (DVOM) you can measure the resistance in Ohms of the spark plug wires. Set the DVOM to 20,000 ohms scale, using alligator clips on leads to clip to the terminals in wire ends. Get the reading, and see if it will give a readout in the 2000 ohms scale. The lower (less resistance) the Ohms the better. I assume a coil pack type ignition, no distributor, I see the opposite end of the plug wires (pposite from plugs) attached to something at engine front looks kinda like a weird dist. cap, or?? can't tell for sure, but it's one plug per cyl. Get a reading, Martin, and if you like I can give advice based on what you find, if it looks like the wires are high resistance type. Look at the wires, if there is a date code, they might be OEM stock ones. Replacements, if needed, can wait a bit it runs OK for now it sounds like, but I always advocate for the very best Ignition possible/affordable. You are about to shell out some coin for your PL kit, I understand!!

I see one other thing that might be worth doing. The air intake plastic duct that crosses over the engine has been cracked and repaired. Looks like you drive in a dusty area, and any leaks in that duct can throw the air/fuel ratio off, it would be un-metered(downstream of the MAF) dirty air getting in there. IF the tube size is same at both ends of that repaired plastic duct, if you are lucky, it could be replaced with something else, they sell intake duct tubing kits at parts stores or online, popular w/ the kids who hop up engines. A smooth pipe would probably eliminate existing turbulence in that stock duct, and that can improve Groove results (smoother laminar and boundary layer airflow at inside surface of the duct, a gentle radius down to the TB is also advised) Greg, any input here re:Reynolds number? If you are enterprising, Martin, maybe you could check before/after results of my idea here, if it helps engine performance, and you find materials cheap enough, you might offer as an option if you decide to Groove other trucks like yours. Easy enough to swap between this stock and a replacement duct, I bet they all are susceptible to this cracking.

Well, I think I've thrown enough at ya for now, Martin, you have a full plate and more coming soon! Lastly- before you are ready to Groove your Colt, see if you can scare up another identical TB as this one as a Test Mule, and post LOTS of pics of this TB, top, bottom, inside views. I see some possible points of Interest and Caution with it. But we will go off that Bridge when you get there!

Glad you came along, Martin, I forsee great possibilities for you!

Tracy G

We have at least one Member here who would probably SWIM to SA just to get his mitts on your truck or an identical one combined w/ the rest of the Situation...( Hey Karl you readin' this--you see what I see w/ that Exhaust Manifold?) Karl will likely consider an Amphibious Conversion kit to add to his Mazda to drive to SA, then you can help him find another Truck like yours, Martin.

Yeah I read that. Martin is very fortunate not to have the advanced computerized demons we have here that can read every move you make and negate your efforts it seems. Like my temporary spurts 25mpg to 40mpg. Why temporary unless the computer is seeing the success that it says I should not have and kicking me back down to what they say I'm only allowed to have.
Without the 02s how can the computer see if you are injecting oxygen into the engine for better combustion?
With no Cat, you dont need a second 02 and there is much more room to do mods that can get you MPGs
well beyond the factory settings.
Yeah I'm envious.