TOPIC: MPG Remedy

Karl-
The EngineLink app does show fuel trims. I suggest an obd2 wifi adapter so you don't have to get into Bluetooth workarounds. That is, if you're an iPhone user like me. I got the adapter for $12, the app for $5...less than $20 and I have data like mad with every drive...

If memory serves, you're based in upstate NY, so we're not too far apart. Maybe we could get together next summer. I'm going to be headed towards you for a family reunion southeast of Buffalo. Maybe my eyes on your vehicle will spot something you've been missing.

Pure Aspirin is available in a powdered (crystalized) form without the fillers. Its used for live stock. It dissolves quickly and easily.

On the topic of corrosion:

Thanks,

Was looking at the Torque Pro a while back but never followed thru.
Just looked at the Enginelink video you have and it seems to have the fuel trims and a whole bunch more.
For $20 its a whole lot better than going thru the trouble of the ScangaugeII reprogramming nonsense or buying a gauge from Autozone that costs $250 and is not as detailed as Enginelink seems to be.
Will look to see how to order and get the Wifi adapter.

Not an upstate dude. I'm on Long Island near the rich and famous.
They let me live within 10 miles of them so they can see how the others live because they need to have a good laugh now and then.

Out towards the Hamptons...I liked my visit there.
I got my wifi obd2 dongle from dx.com. It took a few weeks to come, but it was more affordable than faster options, and I wasn't i.ln that much of a hurry.
EngineLink only reports what the ECU reports. Manifold pressure is out, unfortunately. It might be possible, but I haven't had time to investigate PIDs and programming the parameters/formulae into the app.
A caveat: my reported MPG numbers are off. I am running larger than stock diameter tires and haven't updated my ECU parameters to reflect that. Bigger tires = fewer revs per mile, so that part of the app's calculations are off because the speedo is off. All of this factors Into the fuel map, and therefore engine performance. Like I said, ballpark ish numbers. I figure im within 10% of true, and that's close enough for me

Nate- where do you source that? I'm sure it's available, I just need ideas on where to look since I don't have livestock.

Here is the video about the app with the adapter.



Here it is on Amazon for $20 where on DX I saw it for $36.
The reviews are less than stellar and the problems people had with it was in the software
it seems. Did you have any trouble connecting the adapter to phone app as some of these did?

Karl & Greg, thanks for digging in so hard on your trucks! Karl, it must feel like trying to remove Hoover Dam w/ a pick!! Perhaps, Karl you are on to something re: the computer--maybe you two ought to swap data re: VIN #'s, build dates, or anything that could clue in potential differences between your respective ECU's...Is one different from the other in being more or less accepting of our mods??
Greg, Kudos to you for all you share here. You have done very well in your pre-Groove prep already!

Karl, well, one code gone! I just read thru the thread further, I was once within prob 50 miles of your locale yrs ago. I do hope you guys can get together sometime, one Ranger/Mazda owner to another!

and thanks to Nate for the aspirin info! The clip of David Blume is good, he wrote Alcohol Can Be A Gas, I have it it's over 600 pages full of info on Ethanol, how to make, etc.

Grounds, often I have added, repaired or replaced ground connections. Cleaning existing wire/cable ends & connection points w/ Scotchbrite or steelwool to clean shiny metal. Might be worth looking for info on so called "Big 3" grounds I've heard of to look for clues. I remember in an auto electric class the theory of electric current travel...one theory is that I think electrons or?? actually travel FROM Ground to Positive potential/+ batt. terminal. Dr Jacobs said in his Ignition book, that in 3 out of 4 cases, electrical issues are result of bad grounds. Meanwhile most concentrate on B+ power, it's more intuitive.

OK, I just had discussion w/ my sound engineer roomie, and he gave another idea- Karl, you could locate the main ECU, and (after pulling batt. cables) remove the wire plugs from the ECU. Remove and re-plug the harness plugs several times, to burnish the contacts and help negate any light oxidation/corrosion present. Could use spray contact cleaner also. Look for ground connections, might be the chassis mounts or a separate ground, whichever. Might be also good to do the part of ECU relearn, to turn on ignition to key on and headlights on w/ batt. disconnected to drain any power caps in ECU, before pulling the ECU loose, as precaution. Prob. the idea of pulling/reinstalling wire loom plugs on any engine Sensors you can get to is good too. You are in a humid environment after all!

Greg, my roomie asked if you are on the Harmony Central forums? He'd like your handle there if you are.

Guys this is like clearing a minefield by throwing rocks around! Eventually there will be a clear path! Keep hucking rocks!

Tracy G

That's the adapter I have. No issues thus far...and it was in the $15 range if memory serves.
I think it would be a more robust connection (not that I've had troubles with that at all) if I had done the Static connection setup I saw in a youtube video on the Enginelink website...or maybe update/refresh quicker. I dunno, I'm not a networking guy (yet...)

Tracy - Karl and I have different engines. Mine is a 3.0litre V6, Karl's is a 4 Cylinder. He should by now be kicking serious <ahem> astroturf in terms of fuel economy, so I can understand his frustration at not being in the 35-40MPG range...or higher!

Grounding is an excellent point. Kudos to your roomie, Tracy (have him introduce himself via email, as I'm not on Harmony Central). Burnishing is a REALLY great idea, because being that close to salt water CAN cause obscene corrosion, and if it's on any/all connectors of sensors that report to ECU, the ECU will be acting funky. cleaning the corrosion off the connectors with an appropriate solvent would be a great place to start, but before putting them back together, I'd be sure there's a dielectric element in place to maintain the surface in that state as long as possible. Those of us in audio are familiar with the Caig products, DeoxIt and Lube, available at your local Guitar Center and other similar retailers, but I'm not sure of their appropriateness in automotive applications.

as far as automotive grounds, and cleaning up corroded metal; in the spirit of Ron Hatton's ATF in engine oil and fuel, why not Brake fluid? (Obviously not for connectors.) One mechanic acquaintance has suggested I drip/drizzle some on the bungs of my o2 sensors before I take them out, to lubricate and clean the metal to make the process smoother. He's a bit of a devil, this guy, and he also suggested using a propane torch to heat the bungs gently to expand the metal (again, obviously not while there's an excess of flammable fluid in the area to prevent fires...but he didn't say that! the torch would no doubt light up the perfumed diesel fuel that goes by the name brake fluid without too much problem!) Anyway, with chassis grounds, I'd burnish the metal with sand paper or another abrasive (dremel?) after a cleaning with steel wool and brake fluid, then I'd also apply some dielectric grease on the surfaces to keep them as clean as possible as long as possible. I guess it's like safe sex: lubricate and protect!

Ha Ha HA!! Greg, too funny I can see the class title: Safe Sex and Automotive Maintenance 101 ... OK I'll stop with that!

Point taken on differences in yours and Karl's trucks, thanks. Though lacking direct compatibility, you nevertheless are painstakingly pointing out important vehicle prep points, and many will apply to wide vehicle selections. I'm learning that there are many Ford-specific details, and I hope at some point we can compile a list of the important Ford specifics. I've had success Grooving several different Ford engines, yet others give lukewarm results. I'm trying to sort out the differences between maintenance-related, and Groove-specific things that can hold gains back.

I'll share your email info w/ my roomie John.

Tracy G

This is what we're discussing: eliminating the insidious little things that take away from achieving the highest levels of efficiency. As in most things, the devil is in the details. Put another way, "take care of the pennies, and the pounds take care of themselves."

Tracy, you should branch these last few posts off of this thread and into it's own, new thread...we've taken quite the left turn at Albuquerque!